• I use a 10X loupe and LED flash on EVERY joint - NewbieBaby 16:27:39 03/25/06 (0)
  In Reply to: From the bench posted by Doc B. on March 24, 2006 at 15:31:43:

  This practice has absolutley resulted in catching all kinds of inconsistancies, related to soldering or not, that may have caused problems. The highest goal for the ignorant DIY'er (like me) is to do everything one can to avoid having to troubleshoot circuits the principles of which one has no clear idea about.
  
  

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• Magnifyer - arturo7 06:37:32 03/25/06 (0)
  In Reply to: From the bench posted by Doc B. on March 24, 2006 at 15:31:43:

  I use one of those light/magnifying glass combo units on a flexible swing arm. It offers great light and magnification for every joint. With my limited soldering experience, the CS4 would have been next to impossible without it.
  
  

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• The older I get the more magnification I need... - Wardsweb 21:00:28 03/24/06 (1)
  In Reply to: From the bench posted by Doc B. on March 24, 2006 at 15:31:43:

  

  sad but true. Granted I don't use it most of the time but when I need it, it makes a world of difference.
  
  

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  • Out There!!! - Bob W 16:06:24 03/27/06 (0)
    In Reply to: The older I get the more magnification I need... posted by Wardsweb on March 24, 2006 at 21:00:28:

    NT
    "Music frees the mind from the tyranny of conscious thought"
    
    

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• C4S boards soldering - xcortes 15:51:08 03/24/06 (6)
  In Reply to: From the bench posted by Doc B. on March 24, 2006 at 15:31:43:

  In the few kits I've put together the only missoldering problems I've had have been in the C4S boards and it has happened at least a couple of times. I guess it takes some different skills to solder on a PCB than the way we usually do it on BH kits.
  
  
  

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  • What flux is in your solder? - VoltSecond 09:50:32 03/25/06 (1)
    In Reply to: C4S boards soldering posted by xcortes on March 24, 2006 at 15:51:08:

    With Kester 44 flux, I haven't had many problems wetting the joints with a clean soldering iron tip. I've had problems with other fluxes.

    Note: Europe is outlawing Tin-Lead solder. It is affecting us here in the states, so stock up now. Remember Freon? They did come up with a newer safer Freon, but I still have not seen data that says that the new solders hold-up over time.
    
    Play safe and play longer! Don't be an "OUCH!" casualty.
    Unplug it, discharge it and measure it (twice) before you touch it.

    . . .Oh!. . .Remember: Modifying things voids their warrantee.
    
    

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    • Re: What flux is in your solder? - gogzhad@hotmail.com 23:05:58 03/25/06 (0)
      In Reply to: What flux is in your solder? posted by VoltSecond on March 25, 2006 at 09:50:32:

      I had been using various gages of Radio Shack rosin core solder with generally good results. I briefly tried their 'tip tinner and cleaner' - a little stick on tin of stuff that made the tip quite shiny - but soon I noticed some scud forming at the margins of the melt on the tip, and the solder joints just weren't flowing as before. By the time I'd sh*tcanned the stuff I'd created a number of joints and iirc a number of then were on the C4S boards.
      I have had good results with Welborne Labs solder - it was just the right gage and flowed quickly and well. I think I'll reorder that as rat shack now only seems to have hairs breadth (and no, I'll avoid specifying any further) and garden hose sized solders.
      Funny, I can remember a big-ass tin (like kiwi shoe polish sized) of 'Kester 44' way back when my dad first allowed me to solder something - seems like we were repairing a leaky bird bath, which looked suspiciously like an upside-down steel garbage can lid...waste not, want not, I suppose. Dunno what happened to the birds that partook of the water in that rosin-ey, lead-sealed basin...
      
      

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  • Re: C4S boards soldering - gogzhad@hotmail.com 21:51:01 03/24/06 (1)
    In Reply to: C4S boards soldering posted by xcortes on March 24, 2006 at 15:51:08:

    I've had some challenges with C4S boards, which seemed a mystery at first, eventually cleared up with desoldering and resoldering most of the contacts on the boards. Next time out I'll probably lightly scotch-brite them and wipe with IPA (no, not India Pale Ale, IsoPropyl Alcohol) before firing up the iron.
    
    

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    • That's the ticket. - Jim Carlon 17:01:36 03/25/06 (0)
      In Reply to: Re: C4S boards soldering posted by gogzhad@hotmail.com on March 24, 2006 at 21:51:01:

      Copper oxidizes rather quickly, so a quick buff (I use 0000 steal wool) and a wipe off with alcohol is just the thing.
      
      

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  • C4S boards are tough - John EH 17:25:05 03/24/06 (0)
    In Reply to: C4S boards soldering posted by xcortes on March 24, 2006 at 15:51:08:

    or at least tougher to solder than any other part of the Bottlehead kits. The first time I did one I had a heck of a time getting the LED's lit. I took some very mild scotchbrite and very light pressure and cleaned the boards and traces with isopropyl alcohol.

    Right after that the solder flowed like a big dog, right where it was supposed to go.

    Always clean your tag strips prior to soldering and always clean cards and traces prior.

    Always be gentle as well.

    John
    
    

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  • My experience too (nt) - dth31 17:13:24 03/24/06 (0)
    In Reply to: C4S boards soldering posted by xcortes on March 24, 2006 at 15:51:08:

    nt
    
    

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