204.191.240.150
I have a few questions related to construction of cabinets for the AN-E kit.1. How high should the center of the crossover board be on the back panel? (this dimension is missing on the drawings).
2. I know it is important to follow the plans exactly but is there a problem with using common cabinet building techniques to obtain a better built box? In particular, would there be a detrimental affect on the sound if I rabbeted the stiffening braces into the front and side panels?
3. In a similar vein, is there a negative effect to using the strong, tight joint obtained by using the cutter shown or should I stick with the simple 45 degree miter shown on the drawings?
Follow Ups:
Spread the blueprint sheet 2 of 6 on the table. The scale says
1:3. Using a centimeter scale measure from the top of the board
to the top opening of the crossover hole. Its 8.25cm. Times that
by 3 = 24.75cm. From the bottom its 14.9cm X 3 = 44.7cm. Add up
24.75 + 44.7 + 7.2(crossover hole) = 76.65cm. Damn close.
You want the width also? O.K.,its 4.15cm from both ends X 3 =
12.25cm. So, 12.45 + 12.45 + 9.0(width of the hole) = 33.9cm.
How about that?To sum it up, the top of the crossover hole is 44.7cm and both
sides of the holes are 12.25cm from the edges of the board.
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Thanks for the answer to my simple question.I didn’t think it would require Herculean effort for someone who has these speakers to share 1 dimension but I take it you want to make some kind of point here. Hope you are proud of yourself and your character is duly noted.
Pls keep us posted with the results.
If I'm not mistaken you also have an Altec 604. A comparison is eagerly anticipated
Thanks
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As somebody looking at a pile of birch plywood in the garage trying to get some time organized to put my kit E cab speakers together I'll give you my amateur woodworker hobbyist conclusions.When I was at Sound Hounds in Victoria listening to an E kit a local craftsman had put together for them I noticed the joint for main box was not mitered, and the story was that Peter had told them alternate joinery made no difference there. I bought a lock miter and plan to use it just to make glue up easier.
No help on the crossover height.
Don't you suspect common sense wise that messing with the bracing for the walls is a no no, especially the front and back?
Anyway good luck and send us a picture when you get them finished.
Yes Larry, I see your point about the front and back panels, if they where designed with simple butt joints I should stick with that - the dado joints I usually use for stiffeners might make these panels more rigid and that might not be what was intended.I will post pics when finished.
once you cut the hole in the back panel per the drawings, the crossover board will only fit one way in the hole.
I think the the wood strips inside are baffles not stiffeners. don't see a problem with the corner joint idea. although you don't need to bother. It's a box with the front and back glued in, it's not going anywhere once it's all glued up. I did caulk the inside of my box before putting the front on to help seal it.
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Thanks for the reply Skip. The only thing I needed for the crossover mounting was where it is in the back panel - the drawings I have from AudioNote do not specify location.
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