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In Reply to: RE: If the heaters are still lit.... posted by Cougar on August 20, 2016 at 11:52:56
Looked at the pictures. No rectifier tube so it looks like a component in the power supply is fading. I recommend he has it checked FAST before it blows and takes a bunch of stuff out with it.
Follow Ups:
The amp has solid state rectifiers, so something is going bad. I recommend not turning it on again until a technician or Cary looks at it.
Thanks for the advice on keeping it powered down. I am disconnecting the power cord. I sent an email to Cary and will follow up with a phone call on Monday to them.
John
John,
If you would like a local opinion, contact Pat Hickman @ Classic Tube Audio. He is in Camus, has a top notch lab and worth the trip if only just to see his setup.
Graham,
I shot Pat an email and he got back to me in a matter of minutes. I am going up to Camas on Friday.
John
Good call John, I think you will be glad you did.
Edits: 08/25/16
Graham,
Thanks for the lead in Camas. I think I will contact them and see what they have to say. I would prefer not to ship it across the country. I could also have them check out all of my tubes while they are at it.
Happy Listening,
John
I would be very interested what the cause was.
Cary's prompt response to my email inquiry:
"Most likely what is happening is your filament supply is failing. You'll have to measure and monitor the voltage for the 300B tubes over time to see if it falls off to zero. If it does then it is most likely the rectifier bridge that is failing and will have to be replaced. Let me know what you would like to do."
I will be taking it to Classic Tube Audio in Camas Washington this Friday; will post a followup once the repair is complete.
John
My moneys on failing solder joint in the PS
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