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I'm thoroughly enjoying my factory refurb M3. Very detailed, dynamic.
I've tried both outputs, the direct and the one with a 270-Ohm resistor in series. While the direct output can border on bright with a few of my LPs I find output 2 to have less "air" around instruments and vocals, almost a bit closed in sounding. Is this the general consensus? I much prefer Output 1. Down the road I may have Wheezer's mod done to allow the use of a warmer sounding 6922 (JJs?), but for now, I'm happy.
Opus 33 1/3
Follow Ups:
your normal or serious listening, 9-10 o'clock?
Opus 33 1/3
Not familiar with the 3.
I'm a has been M3A owner that went trough their attenuator repair and the main board 2000 update. Without getting into service issues both the old and new M3A stepped attenuators proved to be major point of dissatisfaction regardless of the internal dip switch settings.
If you can resist attenuation to use the 11-2 o'clock area you might find what you're looking for. Unfortunately, there are very few amplifiers that require such a high amount of preamplifier gain.
If you ever get an opportunity to spend time with the Bruce Moore design you'll experience how the AI should work.
http://www.rbaudio925.com
Best of luck
My Forte model 2 preamp has a stepped volume control.
Opus 33 1/3
Hi Opus,
Output 2 is typically used for subs (470R).
This would create greater impedance mismatch with your next stage.
Output 1 is 470K. If this sounds "bright" it could be due to the above.
What amp are you running and what is the input Z?
Cheers,
W
Emotiva specs input impedance on the XPA-200 as 47K.
Opus 33 1/3
All the M3/M3A pre-s I've seen have 470R. Not that it's worthy of concern.
Interesting.
Opus 33 1/3
You can get good start with impedance matching, by properly sizing the coupling cap in the AI.
A 2.0uf will do the job far better than the stock cap.
I'd go with a Solen PPT 400V
....and ditch the bypass caps in that location....and everywhere if you desire!Cheers,
W
Edits: 06/23/15
"glare" in some tubes. FWIW - I currently use #2 even with long (MI-330) interconnects - and Mitsubishi 7DJ8's in the phone stage and EH 6922's in the line stage. Best combo yet to my ears. The EH's are current production 6H23-EBs
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain
is starting to mellow out a bit. I can certainly live with it. I'll check out the 7DJ8s.
Opus 33 1/3
I am - perhaps - compensating for a bit for my Shure V-15-VxMR/Jico SAS combo that has a bit of a rise in frequency response. I tried the 7DJ8's in all four positions and was disappointed. This combo, for me, is thrilling. Note that I also have my Vandys set for - 2db in the tweeter. Obviously - YMMV.
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain
Edits: 06/23/15
so trust your ears - ;). Also - you're probably experiencing some break in.
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain
Grab the Purist Audio Burn In Disc if you can. run for 8 hrs, music for 8 hrs. then burn in for another 8. May tame the high end.
But I live in a one room (albeit a large one) efficiency apartment above Nephew No. 4's detached double garage. So, my listening room, living room, home office and bedroom are all one in the same room.
The sound out of the box was certainly good, just tilted a bit toward the top, and bottom for that matter (excellent bass).
I can certainly live with it as it stands now.
Thanks for the suggestion any way.
Opus 33 1/3
That sounds a lot like my NAD gear. Lottsa top and bottom end. Not much in the ever important upper bass lower midrange.
charles
But yes, the lower mids could flesh out a bit. That's where using something like the JJ 6922s either in the phono section or line stage could really help.
Opus 33 1/3
Contact Jim McShane. Maybe he can point you in a better tube direction?
I have a Genalex 6922 on order for my Conrad Johnson.
With the stock setup, I don't believe any tubes other than the NOS Russian 6n23p-ev or the current production EH6922 can withstand the load the M3 puts on the tubes. Most others fail in relatively short order. Jim says the EH is the only one he recommends for AI preamps. There is a modification for the M3 which facilitates tube rolling, but I'm trying to live with the original AI setup.
Opus 33 1/3
I have an M3 - not A or B, and have been using EH tubes for the entire 20 years that I have owned the unit - two sets of tubes-
I have not noticed this 'Consumption' of tubes-
A note regarding the second out put- referenced in the OP-
This was originally intended to drive a subwoofer - hence the 270Ohm Resistor-
The tape section is quite good - using Violet series SS bits-
Happy Listening
My first M3, purchased from Galen in the mid 1990s, did fine with the stock tubes. After a few years, I tried some JJ 6922s. They lasted about 8 months.
Opus 33 1/3
I have owned the Modulus 3, 3A and now the 3B. I have never heard any brightness using these preamps.
"Far away across the field
The tolling of the iron bell
Calls the faithful to their knees
To hear the softly spoken magic spells."
I used the tape in on my M3A as that sounded best to me.Jerry P
Edit: tape out to tape in
Edits: 06/20/15
You would need another volume control unless the power amp has level controls.
Opus 33 1/3
My mistake as I have not used the M3A recently.
I used the Tape In input as it bypasses the
source switch and sounded best to me. Also,
I switched the caps out but I do not know if
you have that option.Jerry P
Edits: 06/20/15
that can be used to alter capacitance? Does the 3 have these? I don't remember seeing any when I opened it up on delivery to be sure the tubes were still seated properly after shipment.
Opus 33 1/3
I think only the M3A has the cap switches.
Check out the M3A thread below for comments
from Ozzy and rich121 on tape in input.
Jerry P
The M3A and M3B both have the dip switches. The M3 does not.
"Far away across the field
The tolling of the iron bell
Calls the faithful to their knees
To hear the softly spoken magic spells."
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