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In Reply to: RE: I have chosen BAT VK75SE over ARC VT100 MK3, but the sound… posted by Victor Khomenko on October 11, 2014 at 11:38:12
This amp is not a plug and play unit, if the tubes are in a sealed box that means to me that the tubes are not matched, they need to be in matched pairs, if not you are going to blow the fuse which is easy to replace or you may damage other parts that may need replacement. If you check the New Sensor site the best way to match tubes are to match them in the unit you are using. Here the closer they are matched the better your amp will sound, like a picture you are going to enlarge, the better focused the orignal the better the result. But tubes drift and fail just like ss devices, luckily you can rematch and aquire tubes a lot easier, and will sound just like new again as long as the parts in the unit and the unit itself is in spec.
From experience whenever I changed the 6V6 tube I needed to readjust the unit. I get the best performance using the reissue Tung Sol 6SN7, Gold Lion 6v6 tube, and the Electro Harmonix gold pin 6H30 tube.
The Nichicon LQ series used in this unit are obsolete according to the Nichicon website and passed its shelf life from other sources, changing them to Nichicon's newer, beefier, and higher temperature caps will give you another 10 years of unheralded sound. If your .22uf oil caps don't have the epoxy ends they need to be replaced, I suggest using Jensen's .22uf 1000v copper tube/foil cap.
If your pins are loose simply get a 90 degree plier and simply squeeze them tight going through the center hole of the socket, and as for the heat issue use the Noctua NF-A15 PWM fans.
Follow Ups:
We have seen several customer units where these parts shorted for no apparent reason, creating serious damage.
Victor;
I am/was considering buying a BAT VK 55se from a local gentleman, however, your comment gives me pause.
"We have seen several customer units where these parts shorted for no apparent reason, creating serious damage".
Are the problems stated showing up in all the BAT amps, or are they limited to a particular model? I just don't want to spend $2500 for a amp that may self destruct.
Thank you.
I was a vegetarian for 15 minutes, until the main course.......Meat; It's the right thing to do. Romans 14:2
We are not using them in our units, and the production parts do not have that failure mode.
The reason we changed out the original .22uf oil caps is because we all experienced an almost 100% failure rate, the caps were simply drying out probably due to the heat and poor seal design of the aluminum tube capacitor. I had asked the manufacturer of these caps as to which cap would he would recommend due to the heat and seal issue and he suggested using the copper tube variety which could tolerate the higher heat and had a better seal. I've also tried using their paper tube variety, but the best sound for me is the copper version, the only one I haven't tried is their ceramic tube version. These caps are the manufacture's higher end products and to date (going on 7 years) haven't seen a cap failure, but the best part, together with the better electrolytic caps, and other quality parts the amp is very stable and the sound is simple incredible.
Victor;
Thank you for the clarification.
I was a vegetarian for 15 minutes, until the main course.......Meat; It's the right thing to do. Romans 14:2
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