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I recently got some perfect 3 yr old Magnepan 3.6's that I want to tri-amp using and a deqx HDP-EXPRESS II dsp processor/active crossover. I plan to use bridged Monarchy SM70Pro for the ribbons, modified Odyssey Stratos for the mids and an NAD 2600 for the bass.
I have a chance to get a Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista 300. Do you think this would be an overkill or would this be a better match to the SM70Pro since they are both tubes? I also have a Bryston 5Bst for MC1's sides and a CC3.
Maybe just bi-amping with the Tri-Vista 300 on the bottom and the SM70Pro on the top?
Does anyone have any experience with the Tri-Vista 300 now that they have some age?
Follow Ups:
As that you have stated that you have a few bux to spare by even considering the fine TriiVista, as a tri amper myself, I'll chime in, and maybe save you some coin. Whatever amplification you choose, keep them the same above 250 or 300 Hz. Going with the sm70 on you tweets in stereo, a pair of sm70s on mono on your mids, and the Nad, provided it'll kick out 100 watts per side should really rock.
We came within about $100 on the Tri-Vista deal, but I got tired of dealing with his insults. Why do people get so emotional about money.Instead, what I did get was an immaculate McIntosh MC2205. That should work fine for the bottom of the Bi-amp. I'm going to try the Bi-amp first since I just need to connect directly to the back of the 3.6 without any modification. Then, with the Deqx first as a crossover, I'll set the slopes Magnepan suggest. Next I'll use the dsp processing of the Deqx to make timing and EQ adjustments. Here is one demo of Deqx: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-2I4DpmaNU.
If I get more ventursome someday I'll take it apart and Tri-amp it. It's funny you also suggest using the NAD amps instead of the Stratos. I have about $1200 in the Stratos with it's modifications.
Edits: 04/24/14
My oversight on the Stratos. Nice amps. And Klaus is a real character. A fine product and a good value. When you decide to go active tri amp, and you will, go with the same amp to the tweeters. I did the mix and match thing, myself, and it never sounded right. With two of the same amps, it is smooth now. I am on my cell phone now. When I log onto my pc I'll share a very informative web site on active amplification from a guy down under.
Is there a good tutorial on tri-amping the 3.6 with pictures. I love picture tutorials. The Deqx is ready for 3 way. If you were choosing, would you put the custom Stratos on the top and and another Stratos for the mids, or get one more Monarchy FM70 for the tweeters and bridging my two FM70s for the mids and stay tubes above 250hz?
Another option I now have. I got a pristine McIntosh 2205 yesterday - not even a nick in the walnut case. If I used the Mc for the mids, I could get a smaller Mc SS for the tweeters - or, how would a small tube Mc work with the SS 2205?
Please excuse my last post. I realized that you must have the crossover between the drivers. It's either bi-amping at 200hz or tri-amping at 200hz and 1.7Khz. If I want to include my new Monarchy SM70's I should probably just plan on doing the surgery and tri-amping.
Edits: 04/27/14
This guy is the most informative one on the subject. Mark my words, you'll end up tri amping. And to do it right, will end up with the same amp on the mids and ribbons. A tweeter blocking cap is mentioned in the article, and is a must. The results are well worth the effort. The sound just flows out of the speakers.
There is a second article on the subject. Refer to it on the main page on that site.
Happy amping.
Thanks Ozzie,
I saved the link. I'll try bi-amping first and than I'll be watching for an other FM70 used. Are there any other class A tube amps or integrated amps I could use for the tweeters? Most say it's best to stay with the same amps for both highs and mids. I can't set anything up until my Earthworks mic gets here for the Deqx.
No answers about the Tri-Vista. I do have some concerns about the Monarchy SP70Pro in bridged mode. The specs say the minimum continuous impedance load is 3.0 ohms (same as your tweeters) but in bridged mode this means the amp is "seeing" a 1.5 ohm load and you may be stressing it as in ka-boom. If you triamp, the unbridged configuration should give you more than enough power to adequately drive the tweeters.
SM70 is fully balanced, minimum ohm rating is the same in stereo and mono.
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"One must be sane to think clearly, but one can think deeply and be quite insane."
Sorry to be jumping around. I'm getting used to this format. I see in the Monarchy spec sheet that the continuous 3 ohm load is true for both stereo and mono. It says that since it's a ballanced design: "The SM-70 and SM-70 PRO are the only low cost amps on the market that can be operated in True Balanced Mode when operated as a
Mono Block using the XLR Input terminal.
Minimum Load Impedence tolerated: 3 Ohm continuous
2 Ohm intermittent
(Stereo or Mono Mode)"
Thanks for the heads up. I just got this info: Stereo Mode: 8 Ohm Load: 25 Watts rms × 2, 4 Ohm Load: 40 Watts rms × 2
Mono Mode: 8 Ohm Load: 80 Watts rms, 4 Ohm Load: 120 Watts rms
Minimum Load Impedence tolerated: 3 Ohms continuous, 2 Ohms intermittent
Input Impedence: 100k-Ohm
Input Sensitivity: 1 Volt rms for full output.
It seems like it will run continuously at 3 Ohm in mono mode at 120w.
Maybe I should just use one stereo amp for the tweeters and use the other amp for the rear Magnepan MMG-W speakers.
Before I attempt tri-amping, I'm going to try bi-amping directly into the back of the 3.6's. To bi-amp, you discard the outboard crossover boxes since my active crossover will be the Deqx HDP Express II. I have to wait for my Earthworks testing mic which is shipping very slowly from Spectrum.
I read the same but I interpret the minimum continuous impedance of 3 ohms being meant for normal (non-bridged) operation. When an amp is bridged the effective impedance of the load is halved. Be forewarned! 40W for the tweeter alone is plenty.
I think when you bi-amp directly into the back of the 3.6, bypassing the magnepan crossover box, magnepan manual says to use approximately the same size amps since it will be picking up above 250hz for the upper amp. So the extra power of the mono version will probably be needed. I just won a McIntosh MC2205A on Ebay a few minutes ago. I plan to use that for the low frequencies. If I were tri-amping and opening up the speaker, then the tweeter would have a dedicated amp.
I agree for biamping, you'll want amps with about the same power but for triamping that extra power on the tweeter just goes unused. No harm from putting a 2 KW on the tweeter (assuming your amps all have the same gain and you are not a moron :) ) just a lot of unused power.
But when they refer to mono or stereo, mono can only mean bridged. They do make the comment that this is one of the only amps that will do this because of the way they are balanced.
The Tri-Vista 300 has a tube (nuvistor) driver stage and transistor output stage.
There were only 500 of these made as aniversary models. They are hybrid tube pre and SS amp at 340wpc. Lots of great review when they were new. Wondering how they are holding up?
Just sold my Trivista 300 after 6 years of happy ownership. The full name is MF Trivista 300 Dual Mono Integrated Amplifier. Here is a link to the manual that describes bi-amping: http://www.musicalfidelity.com/uploads/manuals/English/tri300.pdf
Only problem I had is hiss in on channel; discovered by the seller when I shipped it. I have to admit, I had not used it in the past year....went to Bel 1001 Mk. V mono's.
Scratch that: looking at the TriVista Power Amp schematic, there are NO TUBES. Sorry about that. I do know that the Trivista 21 DAC had 4 5703WB tubes in the output stage.
Not sure if any of the other TriVista units had tubes
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