Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share you ideas and experiences.
I'm a newbie (have only built a few bottlehead kits) and am trying to build the Ladyday+ mkII monoblocks. Sorry in advance for what will probably be read as dumb questions, but here goes....
Can anyone provide a photo of their Ladyday+ mkII completed wiring? I have many questions that the diagram/instructions aren't helping me with. If no photos are out there, maybe you could help instead by addressing these questions:
1) What is the best wiring technique to use? i.e., what is best routing of the wiring and which wires should be twisted together and which not...or does this even matter?
The instructions state the kits includes "thick" wire and "thin" wire but my kit just has one roll of wire and one roll of insulation. I didn't worry about this until the manual directed me to use "thick" wire from the ps pcb lower ground trace to the ground side of the large green cathode resistor.
2) A close-up on the ps pcb board would help as well. There is already a 10w .47k ohm resistor wired from the board's lower ground trace to the chassis ground tab (it is connected to the pcb not on the lower left point, but two points over to the right..sort of lower middle). The intructions simply state to wire a 5W resistor...I'm confused; do I need to wire a different "5W" resistor in addition to the 10W.47r? If so, as I can only identify them by testing ohm resistance, so what resistance should the 5W resistor have?
3) the ccs pcb seems to have holes too small for the hookup wire. Would you recommend me finding smaller gauge wire so that it fits in the holes or to simply solder the included wire to the bottom contact points of the ccs pcb
4) I'm seems this kit is missing one large cap for each of the monoblocks. I have both caps that will sit on either side of the rectifier tube socket (2.2uF/630v and 10uF/630v). I also have the 47uF/160v large black cap that goes by the 330b socket, but seem to be missing what the diagram shows as a large orange ".22uF" can shaped cap that goes by the 300b socket as well. Could this cap be the large brown rectangular chiclet looking thing that is marked "100000 +/- 5%, 500v GM or SM or 3M" or am I missing a can?
Thanks again for all your help...this is a step up for me in terms of building using a diagram instead of step-by-step wire A ---> B instructions/photos.
I'm not sure which kit you are building as you mention parts that would normally be in two different kits.
Could you email me to identify which kit you have. I can then send a photograph and otherwise help you out.
Take control! DIY.
Thanks Brian, I've emailed the info to you...the kit I'm building is the "LD Two+"....I look forward to hearing back regarding the questions posted a few days ago...
First of all, let me reassure you that you'll get there in the end! The LD is a fun kit to build and not that technically challenging. Just take your time and ask lots of questions, here on the forum and also by email to Brian when necessary.
Like a complete idiot, I lost my construction photos from my own LD+ build. I'll have to open it again and take a few more. However, these two articles were very helpful in giving me a good feel for the process and how things should look (even though they are for earlier versions of the kit):
As for wiring technique, a couple of basic tips: First of all, route signal wires well away from power supply wires, and when they must cross do so at right angles and with as much vertical separation as possible. Use wire ties with those stick-on anchors to keep everything in place. In general the wires that should be twisted are +/- pairs for power supply, heaters, etc. The manual is pretty clear on which ones.
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