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Here's the detailed wiring diagram of the Ella in p-2-p mode many have asked for. The main differences with your pcb'd Ella is no time delay provision, so we use a little different PCB. Also the sockets need to be mounted directly to chassis. I have ordered extra PS PCB and and a special mounting plate which can replace the main pcb and still allow mounting of sockets using the existing PCB mounting points. But beware: these little items take a long time to come from the factory and are not absolutely necessary. If you drill the chassis, you can mount the sockets direct. Also it is possible to use the existing PS PCB but I'm not able to provide a step-by-step decription of how to do it.
Brian
Take control! DIY.
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Follow Ups:
It seems odd that the wiring for the two small tubes at the top (the 6922s?) isn't the same for both channels. The power goes to pins 4 and 5 on both (if I'm counting them correctly) and there are other similarities, but for example the NFB goes to pin 8 on one side and 3 on the other. Surely the wiring should be identical on both sides, just like it is for the other tubes?
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OK, I get it. The 6922 is a _dual_ triode so Plate/Grid/Cathode are pins 1/2/3 (unit 2) and 6/7/8 (unit 1) and it's just that triodes 1 and 2 are swapped over on each side.Is there any reason for doing this? Wouldn't it still be better to have it symmetrical?
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OK, (casting about for a plausible explanantion): Because later you can swap tubes and give each half of the triode the same duty cycle.
;o)
Brian, thank you for the picture, it is really helpful.Please note -- Connection missing --Left Channel-- Tube 2-- Pin 5 to 47K resistor.
Wrong connection -- Right Channel Tube 2 -- 1 MOhm resistor connected to pin 8, but have to be connected to the pin 1.Notice for those, who already have assembled ELLA and will redo it P-to-P --Power tubes (marked A,B,C,D in manual)-- Tubes A&C "default" (according to the manual) connected to P2G2, Tube B&D connected to P1G1.
So, if you would not like to reassemble the output stage, you have to change wires, coming from 0.01 uF capacitors through 1 KOhm resistors to pins 5 of power tubes.Further, Input tube on the left channel have "changed" pins -- input is pin 2, (the "second tube"), not the pin 7 ("first tube" -- as in the right channel).
Regards,
See the original picture
Brian
Take control! DIY.
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Thanks Victor,
Appreciate the scrutiny and will review corrections Monday when Benny gets back.
Brian
Take control! DIY.
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Hello,that capacitor and resistor between the plus and minus output for the speakers; is this to secure the amp in case off running without output-resistance?
And, is this layout an example with or without feedback?
Thanks for the informations
that RC on the speaker outputs is a zobel network... maybe intended to damp some ringing in the OPT. You'd have to ask the designer, or rig up a test setup and see whats going on. I think its unnecessary when using output triodes because of their low rp, but thats just my guess.This layout has feedback (looks like a 30K and paralled cap.)... 24k was stock , IIRC.
-zarni
Looks very clear, even for someone like me.Brian, are you selling all of the parts as a package that will be needed to do this?
Tks
Hi Brian,
Yes working on it. stay tuned!
Brian
Take control! DIY.
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