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$269USD/pr
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Brian -Any luck getting the factory to try making some w/o the top mica?
I proposed it, Mr Liu rolled his eyes and said leave it with him.
I don't expect it anytime soon. From their p.o.v. the 45 has been quite successful as is.
Brian
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Hi Brian those are beautiful. how are their specs compared to NOS 45's? If I am building a DIY amp to run nos 45's will these be viable drop in replacements? thanks Kevin
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A quick glance through the shipment:
At -50/250V most of them are ~50ma. Filament current 1.5A
So a little higher plate current. If you can adjust the bias for operation then OK. The original 45 was 35ma.
Brian
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Gordon Rankin posted 250V, -44V, 40ma. That is quite different than 250V, -50, ~50ma. See link for Gordon's post. It looks like from the operating point Gordon got with his, if you went to -50 on the grid it would drop the plate current almost right where it should be. What kind of spread are you seeing on incoming stock?Rgs, JLH
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OK I ran curves on the highest and lowest prs. All stock falls somewhere within these extremes in the current shipment of premium globes:
highest: 55ma/-50V/250V
lowest: 43ma/-50V/250VI'm running the 55ma ones in my own amps at this moment.
BTW, of the several thousand 2A3, 300B, 45, KT88, 6550 and EL34 power tubes curve traced from US/China/E. Europe countries, the average spread is about + or - 25%. Of course the higher gain tubes have more variation, lower gain, less.
Brian
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Does it necessary mean the higher the 'ma' draw, the higher the output power?
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'Tis a thing of beauty for sure, but I worry about my well-being. And the well-being of my bank account (an oxymoronic concept if ever there was one!).For the love of God Brian, stop! Desist you beast!! Unhand m...
jusbe.
Share and save the World.
OK, OK, just deep breathe and dream about those Fertins. Have you got your batteries ready?
Brian
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Volker assures me that they're on their way; I can't wait.Batteries? Well, I had thought about them and may yet try them, but in a way they seem too similar in execution (if not concept) to permanent magnets, only more complicated. Won't the use of batteries bypass the very field-coil (mains-driven) 'stiffness' so often associated with the quintessence of the breed?
What did you use?
jusbe.
Share and save the World.
Hi Justin
Hope you're well. Seen some of the comings and goings with drivers. Where are you headed?
Cheers Chris
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Chris,
As you probably know, I've sold my Hedlunds and AER drivers. I love AERs but know that I'll have to wait to afford the ones I want - the BD3s (or 4s or 5s).
Inspired by the late great Gizmo, I've left the idea of 'best' in hifi behind, and have been able to support this move since we moved into a bigger house. So I've decided upon multiple systems, to suit my mood or taste, or the music at hand. In this spirit I have settled on 2 new loudspeakers systems for now - more compact back horns using a Nagaoka D-58ES design and rare Fostex drivers (FE208ES) with a relatively high Bl factor. These drivers are whizzerless and so will be supported by a Fostex horn tweeter (probably a T90A or T50A - depending on how well I do at selling some other stuff on eBay).
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The other system will be an OB system, using the Fertin field-coil 8" driver (FLB20EX) with Black Forest Audio PSUs, and a baffle popularised on the web by JE Labs (whose properties are well known by others here). Therer are one or two others one could try, but I've always wanted to try the Fertin - a chance came up, so I took it.
The object with these systems is to more deeply investigate the subtleties of TONE, and arrangements that hold this aspect of sound as preeminent. The Nagaoka horns are purported to go lower than Hedlunds, and I'm hoping that the baffle design may act as a greater support to the front wave. Eventually I'd probably like to add one of Bert's 1/2 reference Oris systems, and am more inclined to use the smaller of his front horns for the FR. I love Bert and his enthusiasm for music; We're lucky to have people like him and Brian as ambassadors of the hobby. I have a bit more saving to do for one of his newer systems though.
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I'm making major changes elsewhere, but time for audio is short at the moment with a new baby, new job and imminent professional exams.
jusbe.
Share and save the World.
Thanks Justin
I wish you well on this new adventure (or two).
The Fertins certainly look very interesting but I cant find any info on the JE Labs baffle - can you paste a URL.
I have a spare pair of AER Mk1s and plenty of wood so I'm going to give myself a little taste of OB.
Cheers Chris
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JE Labs OB. AER Mk1's Qts is quite low to get good bass and a more even tonal balance, you'd need subs or extra woofers for these.
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Thanks Derick
I've got BD15s I can experiment with in OB or BR. What I really need to know is, what is that fluted contraption that Justin posted a picture of?
Cheers Chris
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Hi,You can play around with OB dimensions downloading/using Thorsten's (aka, Kuei Yang Wang) Excel2K OB Spreadsheet (calculate baffle/driver/room response):
http://www.exdreamnet.de/download/Xlbaffle.xls
Driver offset with the 'golden ratio' (irrational numbers) in mind as a guide:
http://ldsg.snippets.org/AUDIO/LIBRARY/phi.html
While baffle leaning angle is still somewhat relative to driver type.. 2 peeps you can ask about this is GM and/or KYW at the FR Driver Forum (I just posted a question about this on the forum.)
JE (a compatriot of mine) Labs style baffle works very well with drivers that have a Qts of 1 or higher.
Thanks D.Right now, I wondering whether I can persuade any of the professional Japanese builders to send me the CAD programs for routing the rear of the driver baffle into that fancy star shape.
Do you have any thoughts on bonding the ply panels to each other? Pictures of construction I've seen show massive machines literally pressing the (glued?) parts together; I'm not sure I can get acess to stuf like that so easily.
jusbe.
Share and save the World.
Right now, I wondering whether I can persuade any of the professional Japanese builders to send me the CAD programs for routing the rear of the driver baffle into that fancy star shape
----Hi,
Terry Cain ("tcain") might be able to help you and give you CAD programs since he uses those brass rings, etc. on his Cain&Cain horns. You could also try to email "Marco", has alot of in-depth knowledge with regards to Nagaoka enclosures and has used Nagaoka horns himself: http://cgi.audioasylum.com/scripts/mail.pl?user_ID=4630
The dude that has that large machine sells Nagaoka horns commercially so he has to have "professional" equipment.
For diy only you'd need LOTS of high quality clamps and empty water bottles filled with lead shot if you want to do it inexpensively (I've seen it in other diy sites.)Derick
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