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This is a shaded pole AC synchronous motor.

Posted by tubesforever (M) on December 14, 2007 at 11:52:37

In Reply to: Rek-O-Kut B12 Motor posted by macm75 on December 14, 2007 at 08:58:16:

I have had good success with these but they do require attention to detail.

A full dissassembly is a great idea. Check to see if there is any slop in the motor shaft to sintered bronze bushings. If there is, a shop can clean up the motor shaft and bore new sintered bronze bushings.

If everything is nice and snug you can simply clean it all up as good as you can and reoil it with 30 weight synthetic motor oil.

I like to soak the bearings in acetone or mineral spirits and then let it dry. Then soak them in the new oil over night.

I mirror polish the motor shaft as well. I do this with a dremel type tool mounted to a lathe so I do not have to concern myself with flat spots.

Doing this by hand could be a problem since a bunch of flat spots would be worse than not polishing it at all.

The rubber isolation grommets are still being manufactured, but I cannot seem to find a source where I can purchase these. The manufacturer will not respond to my emails. I wonder if anyone else has had success in this arena.

OMalley did some research on silicone isolation washers as I recall. You might want to email him directly about a source for these. They may or may not fit this application. If they can handle the weight they might be superior to the rubber style.

A full dissassembly is a good idea on these tables. Make careful drawings or take lots of pictures about how things interface. Also carefully measure where the speed selector switch is mounted because this distance affects the speed of your platter.

Finally there is a long spring inside the carrier that engages your idler wheel. I like to find the absolute minimum pressure required to drive the table.

It would be a good idea to have that idler wheel re-tired. Ed Crockett and others do this work generally for about 25 dollars plus shipping.

A fresh tire and fresh vibration isolation will be the minimum steps to get this ROK back to stock performance.

BTW you might have a decent tonearm there. It looks like a predecessor model of my Empire 980 tonearm. The 980 sounds great with my Denon DL 103R cartridge. I hope your arm sounds as good!

I have posted about other ROK modifications in the past. Check the archives if you want to see some things you can do to improve the performance of the bearing.

If your platter is ringing, the bearing is likely to be the cause. Make sure you are well oiled, and check to see if the steel ball has worn into the thrust surface of the platter bearing.

On some tables I have received used, the ball is missing and that would cause ringing to be sure!

A bunch of my old ROK's displayed some degree of wear on the bearing. Not on the side surface but where the steel ball contacts the thrust surface of the platter bearing. This causes increased friction which is translated to ringing.

Cheers!

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