couple of thoughts

You are dealing with at least two variables, so you must eliminate one to make your comparisons valid.

If the caps are new, they should be run for at least ten hours before making any critical decision. I'm not familiar with the caps you're using, other than that they're very high quality, but a good cap in line level signal app typically requires at least a few hours of run time before it starts to sound decent. A dozen hours is not unreasonable. Even after the caps are "broken in," they should be allowed to play for an hour or so after making any new solder connections. Also, while I don't believe that orientation of a film cap is important initially (some do think so), after it has passed signal for a while, I believe it, and every other conductive element, somehow becomes "biased" to sound best in that signal direction unless it is reversed and played the "other way" for a while. You should be careful to maintain that same directionality once it has been established or you will need to reverse the bias. The time for that varies in every application, so why not just avoid it.

Of course, the passage of a long time makes it extremely difficult to recall what the original sound was like. I recommend changing only one channel at a time so you always have a reference. Any attempt to simply remember the sound from more than a few hours ago invalidates subjective testing. It just doesn't work.

Sorry to say, but I have some doubt about the validity of your conclusion so far. The additional "air" you hear may be distortion caused by vibration. There is no mechanism by which a freely vibrating part with long leads can be made to sound better than a secured one with short leads. If that is in fact the case, perhaps you should consider lifting all the parts off the PCB and dangling them by extended leads.

I would avoid shrink wrap for insulation. Try Teflon tubing or tape instead, or even strip the Teflon insulation from another wire. You could also try cotton or gauze.

Take your time. Comparing caps or any other component is not easy, but it should be fun. Many of the differences and any improvements are subtle. Don't focus on a single aspect of the music, but try to hear it as a whole. When it sounds more real, not simply "more details" or "more solid bass," then you've made the right change. I listen to vocals and strings. When I can hear emotion in the singing or playing on a good recording, then I think it's right. All the other stuff such as air and highs and lows and imaging seems to come along with that. A copper/PIO cap is probably not going to have more zip, but it should sound more real.

Peace,
Tom E

berate is 8 and benign is 9

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Follow Ups Full Thread

Topic - How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - mattzack 10:19:57 04/28/15 (16)

I forgot to say - Awe-d-o-file 06:59:34 04/29/15 (9)

RE: I forgot to say - madisonears 19:03:13 04/29/15 (8)

RE: I forgot to say - Awe-d-o-file 06:05:21 04/30/15 (7)

RE: I forgot to say - madisonears 15:54:54 04/30/15 (6)

RE: I forgot to say - Awe-d-o-file 18:10:16 04/30/15 (5)

Alternative method - unclestu 12:14:47 05/01/15 (0)

I don't understand - madisonears 20:03:35 04/30/15 (3)

RE: I don't understand - Awe-d-o-file 08:38:04 05/01/15 (2)

I REALLY like your attitude - madisonears 09:24:17 05/01/15 (1)

RE: I REALLY like your attitude - Awe-d-o-file 11:52:12 05/01/15 (0)

RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - madisonears 18:27:51 04/28/15 (1)

RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - Palustris 08:09:34 04/29/15 (0)

RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - Awe-d-o-file 14:04:01 04/28/15 (3)

RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - mattzack 22:52:35 04/29/15 (2)

couple of thoughts - madisonears 09:08:01 05/01/15 (0)

RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac - Awe-d-o-file 08:14:21 05/01/15 (0)

Follow Ups

couple of thoughts - madisonears 09:08:01 05/01/15 (0)

couple of thoughts

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