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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
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In Reply to: Re: Neuance shelf info posted by illini_skn on June 25, 2005 at 09:33:53:
For those interested in more info on Ikea Lyte rack, I've re-posted Ken Lyon's original instructions via the link below. There are a few updates though. Ikea since circa 2000/01 changed the construction of these tables. Originally, the legs were solid wood, and the hollow table was pressure filled with wood chips which created constrained layer damping. Both of these designs have subsequently been changed. The legs are no longer solid. Ikea now outsources construction of these tables to a number of different vendors who can, according to some basic Ikea guidelines, build the tables as they choose. Consequently, the Oak veneer table (the one I used) has mdf legs while most/all? of the other finishes have legs that use combo solid/hollow construction. This presents a problem when cutting the legs and installing the spikes. This was not a problem with the Oak table due to solid mdf core legs.
Some advise on cutting the legs. I don't have a chop saw, so I went to TrueValue and they cut each leg for $0.50 cents. Wrap some blue painters tape around each leg where you want to make the cut from minimizing splintering. Try to use a smooth finish blade if you have the option.Once you've cut the legs, is prudent to drill a 2.5" deep 1/4" hole in each leg (assuming 3' long 1/4" spikes). Do NOT drill a larger hole than the width of the spike screw. Then, drill a shallower ~5/8" hole (directly into the hole you just drilled) to install a metal thread tap that accepts the spike, which provides more rigidity. These thread accepters (for lack of the correct terminology) can be tapped into the 5/8" hole so they are flush with the bottom of each leg. Screw each Spike into the thread accepter (actually passes through it). This is obviously best done with a drill press, but I omitted this as I do not have one. These instructions do not have to be done with the *bottom* platform as you screw standard spikes (I used speaker spikes) into the bottom of the platform's pre-drilled holes.
Next, in addition to using carpenter's glue to glue the top of each leg (the legs come with a pre-set wood screw that screws into a pre-drilled hole on the bottom of the platform), you can increase strength and rigidity by installing simple metal corner braces that buttress each leg to the bottom of each platform. Place each brace so that they are not visible when viewing the front of your rack. Instead of the flat "L" brackets, you can get small molded corner brace at Home Depot or True Value. It looks like this...
http://www.vandykes.com/product/02367238/
Because the table tops are hollow in some places (more on this in a second), you'll need to install plastic ribbed anchors into the bottom of each platform and screw the leg brace into the anchor. You do not have to do this on the leg end, because the leg is solid. This adds about 20min to the project, and well worth it in the long-run for added strength and longevity.
Now back to the table top. As I mentioned, Ikea changed the design. When you knock on these tables at Ikea, you'll swear they are hollow. They are not. According to Ken, Ikea now uses a honeycomb lattice core. After reading a post in which Ken said that one could drill a few holes in the bottom of the tables and inject polyurethane foam, I did just this. This was a MESSY job. I repeat, this is MESSY (where old clothes and do this outside). The foam would not expand into the far recesses of the table and, instead, escaped out of the hole after a few seconds. Hence, my experience corroborates Ken's conclusion that these tables are not hollow. I drilled about 5 holes into the bottom of each platform. Ken says you don't need to do this...the added benefit may not be worth the trouble. The design of these tables still result in an incredible low mass, rigid rack design. If you do spray foam, you'll need to let dry overnight and then scrape with sheetrock scraper and sand. This is easy with the right tools. Without this step you can assemble these racks in 2-3 hours once organized.
This is basically it. Good luck and have fun if you try this. I am not a skilled DIY'r, and it is very simple to assemble this rack. I experienced appreciably better sound as a result.
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Follow Ups
- More info on building Ikea Lyte Rack (Long) - RioTubes 10:48:29 06/25/05 (0)
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