In Reply to: RE: fool's bi-amp ? posted by Presto on February 27, 2012 at 16:10:17:
It is however similar to me converting my Tannoys (Little Red Monitors) to active operation.
The original low pass was 12dB/oct electrical, while the tweeter was an odd combination of 6 and 12dB/oct which created the needed cd horn boost and also included a notch filter.
This was replaced by a very standard active L-R 24 and a parametric eq for the boost and notch.
The result still clearly sounds like a Tannoy pepperpot DC but with a remarkably cleaner, tighter bass and a slightly smoother treble. Obviously the tweeter needed de-inverting.
I also got them to within +-2dB over their entire range.
The one main difference is that without the passive xover between it and the amp the woofers power handling went down from 100w to 50w (the driver itself was clearly marked as such internally while the 100w figure came from the tech manual which states power handling as 125Wrms, 100Wrms for woofer and 25Wrms for the tweeter part).
A friend of mine activated his later 215DMT (officially the crossover is an 'overdamped second order low frequency, first order high frequency', same as mine really) and Tannoys own engineers recommended fourth order L-R but that was some time after I did mine.
I didn't bother asking Tannoy, I just went with my previous experiences of turning passives to active. Usually it is a good idea to use steeper slopes active than passive.
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Follow Ups
- RE: fool's bi-amp ? - b.l.zeebub 02:26:12 02/28/12 (1)
- RE: fool's bi-amp ? - Presto 17:08:42 02/29/12 (0)