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Skilled at solderwicking SMDs? Then, yes but you'll spend more time than it's worth. How-to get started.

Posted by cfb (A) on May 10, 2012 at 09:36:01

In Reply to: Stupid question of the day posted by roxymott on May 9, 2012 at 11:07:02:

Disclaimer: Proceed at your own risk, hobbyist and or modifier assumes any and all liability and should be cognizant of all safety procedures regarding working with electronic devices. The following is for informational purposes only.

Once under the hood look for the output circuit board “EU05” that's the one to the right rear of the case it may be marked pc-output, be careful of the ribbon cable they break very easily. The DAC and output buffers are mounted on this board. The 26 trace ribbon cable runs from the CN901 connector on the EU01 main circuit board to the CNY01 connector on the EU05 output board. Pin 12 on the CNY01 is the ADATA1 input on the EU05 then through RY08 a surface mount 100 ohm resistor to pin 27 the SDATA input of ICY12, digital to analog converter. There are three DAC ICs, one for the front channels, one for the surround channels and one for the center and sub output. All are the Analog Devices AD1853 Sigma-Delta DAC, the ICY12 is front or 2 channel, the ICY13 is surround and the ICY14 is center / sub. The output from the DAC then feeds into the ICW05, ICW06, ICW09, ICW10 op amps, all of which are the MJM5532M. This is a three stage op amp output. The 5532M is a one dollar op amp so could be improved upon maybe a LME45720, OP275 or OPA2132. The AD825 is single channel so would take more work to use here. The input is best dealt with quickly by building the standard spec sheet circuit for an external SPDIF input using a CS8414-CS, PALCE22V10-J.

Remember nearly anything is possible given enough effort but the question is, is it worth it? All of this is more time and expense than simply buying a $500 stand alone DAC which would sound better than modifying this boat anchor.

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