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24.194.6.158
In Reply to: Re: Anybody thermal their Sonic Impact T-Amp yet? (pic) posted by LineArrayNut on June 18, 2005 at 14:46:51:
See the TA2024 data sheet, relevent part from page 9 below.It appears that if your problem was overcurrent, cycling power would bring it back immediately. Likely it is overtemperature, as you say it needs time to cool down first before coming back. Removing the plastic case and blowing a small fan on the power chip would help, but not sure how much. Maybe it needs a better heatsink, or you need a more powerful amp. You could also buy another, and use one for L, and one for R. Then each would see 1/2 the thermal load. Last idea, if you get another, is to run them as paralleled mono amps. On each amp, connect both L,R + and L,R negative together, *and* feed one channel to both L and R inputs on one amp. This should also work better driving 4 ohms.
Bob
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Protect i o n C i r c u i t s
The TA2024 is guarded against over-temperature and over-current conditions. When the device
goes into an over-temperature or over-current state, the FAULT pin goes to a logic HIGH state
indicating a fault condition. When this occurs, the amplifier is muted, all outputs are TRISTATED,
and will float to 1/2 of VDD.
Over-tempe r a t u re Pro t e c t i on
An over-temperature fault occurs if the junction temperature of the part exceeds approximately
155°C. The thermal hysteresis of the part is approximately 45°C, therefore the fault will
automatically clear when the junction temperature drops below 110°C.
Over - c u r r e n t P r o t ect i o n
An over-current fault occurs if more than approximately 7 amps of current flows from any of the
amplifier output pins. This can occur if the speaker wires are shorted together or if one side of
the speaker is shorted to ground. An over-current fault sets an internal latch that can only be
cleared if the MUTE pin is toggled or if the part is powered down. Alternately, if the MUTE pin is
connected to the FAULT pin, the HIGH output of the FAULT pin will toggle the MUTE pin and
automatically reset the fault condition.
Ove r l o a d
The OVERLOADB pin is a 5V logic output. When low, it indicates that the level of the input signal
has overloaded the amplifier resulting in increased distortion at the output. The OVERLOADB
signal can be used to control a distortion indicator light or LED through a simple buffer circuit, as
the OVERLOADB cannot drive an LED directly.
Follow Ups:
Bob,
Thanks for the reply. Hmmmm... everything I read said you couldn't mono these...as they were already "bridged" internally anyway? Are you positive this:
"run them as paralleled mono amps. On each amp, connect both L,R + and L,R negative together, *and* feed one channel to both L and R inputs on one amp. This should also work better driving 4 ohms."is feasible and have you tried it personally and found it to work OK/better? Thanks in advance for your response.
Kind Regards,
Jack
I *like* the loudness button!
Nope, I have not done it yet, it is easy enough to try though. It was suggested by another person who HAD done it though on another tripath chipset. Note that parallel operation lowers the output impedance, increases current but not voltage.
Bridging raises the output impedance,increases voltage but not current.The fact it is already bridged does not mean at can't be paralleled. But only you can tell if it sounds better or not in your setup.
I have the Sonic impact and the TEAC, which has more power (30W).
I plan to parallel the TEAC to run larger 4 ohm speakers.-bob
sounds a bit different too, hard to quantify exactly but definately different. Of course, there's an extra cheesy y cable and the speaker cables are vastly different, was Belden Cat5 teflon 3 pair, now mil spec silver plated copper 16 ga stranded in teflon.
I *like* the loudness button!
Thanks for letting us know.
I suspect you are simply running out of oomph driving those 4 ohm MTM's w/ that amp. You may need to move it over to tweeter duty and get more watts for the woofers. I think these little 12V 6W amps do better with single high efficiency drivers.
Bob
When I turn it down , they work fine, lol! I have them at 80 hz high pass now, 18 dB/ octave; I like the way the subs integrate better than 120 hz.
I'm using a Paradigm X-30 as the crossover and these 94 degree days, the AC runs all day long trying to hold 75 degrees in the house. That hurts my sensibilities, thus I'm moving from Mobile, Alabama (the humidity sucks too) to the TN mountains.
From a black asphalt shingle roof (by subdivision covenant rules can be no lighter than "dark gray") to an all metal house that I'll build myself with a nearly white roof on 5.02 acres (instead of .33 and neighbors who complain about my subs), 1900ft^2 all steel home 2bdrm,1 bath;
main site:
http://www.heritagebuildings.com/Shortcut to type of house: http://www.heritagebuildings.com/steel_homes/lakeside/index.asp
direct link to LS4
http://www.heritagebuildings.com/steel_homes/lakeside/4.asp
affiliated outfit, same model: http://www.allsteelhomes.com/models/lakeside/index.asp
this site has a long video with an owner related tornado story.Makes alot more sense to me, what with global warming, OPEC and whatnot.
I can get R-40 from the roof and R-30 on the walls, with a radiant barrier (twice) and some ceramic paint:
http://www.hytechsales.com/additivevspaint.html
I think I can get away with a heatpump and use the amps to heat the house in the winter, LOL!
I like tubes too... big tubes!
I *like* the loudness button!
I *like* the loudness button!
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