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RE: Electro-Voice Regal lll

It is confusing because the available schematics for the EV Esquire 200 and Regal 300 are the same and your saying Regal 111 with a horn mid. The 200 and 300 both have an 8" cone mid but the instructions to adjust the two level controls are different for some reason.

When I got done writing this response I'm now thinking that the crossover for your version of the Regal is not the same as the 200 or 300 with the cone mid driver because of the pics of your crossover with the crossover frequencies and what looks like a missing cap.
But it does look like the mid and tweeter have a simple crossover like the 200 and 300 because there's only two coils or inductors I see in the pic.
Maybe you can follow my progression below on that conclusion.

As for the Esquire 200's I have, I would have never guessed that the woofer was 4 ohm, the mid 8 Ohm, the tweeter 16 ohm and that the woofer was wired out of phase with the mid and tweeter? The schematics for the 200 and 300 do actually show the woofer wired that way once you stop being confused by the low-high marking and go by the + - markings next to the drivers to see where those wires go.
It looks like there's a letter stamped on your woofer after the 12W so that's a tip that it's probably not 16 ohms like you'd expect with an older brown colored 12W.

The 200 and 300 data is on line as a download from EV/Telex by doing a search for EV esquire 200 or EV regal 300.

That so called mid/presence pot as shown in the schematics control the level of both the mid driver and tweeter so as to "shelf them" relative to the woofer output.
The HF pot just adjusts the tweeter level and the instructions for adjusting the pots makes more sense in the Esquire 200 directions.

You seem to have later Regals with a horn mid and because your actual crossover reads 1000 and 3500, that 100uf cap on the mid/presence pot doesn't make sense. If the crossover to the horn mid was 1000HZ and it was 8 ohm, I'd think that cap would be around 19 uf.

The 2.84 cap in the tweeter line is after the cap to the mid/presence control so your tweeter is protected from low frequencies.

The 100uf makes sense with an 8" cone midrange that can actually be a full range speaker and that suggests a crossover from the woofer to mid of around 300HZ.

Either wait to see if EV/Telex has the schematic for your Regals with the horn mid or you are probably going to have measure the DC resistance of the drivers to see if they are 4, 8 and 16 ohm.They will measure below those values but readings of 2, 5 and 10 would show you if they are different.

The other unknown is, did EV change the crossover setup for the Regal with the horn mid so that there is actually a mid level and tweeter level pot that work independently of each other?
Maybe if you carefully look at the crossover you can draw the connections on paper?

I believe the tweeter cap being 2.84 with a 16 ohm T35 or T35B tweeter but if your horn mids are 8 ohms and the crossover is 1000HZ, then I'd question if the cap across the woofer in your Regals is 140uf as the schematics show. UNLESS they didn't use a cap there to roll off or bypass the HF response of the woofer because the crossover to the mids in those Regals is 1000HZ.

If your going to be dabbling in this kind of stuff in the future you might think about buying a multimeter that checks capacitance. If you break the connection at one end of each cap you should be able to see what the caps in there are. Maybe they drifed in value but it's a rough guide.

From the pic you supplied it looks like two caps in your crossover unless one is a dual cap or one is hidden. If those two caps are a single value each then there may not be a cap across the woofer in your Regals because of the higher crossover point with the horn driver.

A dual cap of that type would probably have a wire on one end and two wires on the other end.

The other issue would be if EV wired the woofer out of phase in your version of Regals because the overlap of the woofer and the mid with a higher crossover point than that of the cone mids may not be a concern.
That should be fairly easy to trace out if there are + - markings or a red dot for plus on the the woofer.

If not, just remove one wire from the woofer and jump the ends of a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the woofer terminals. The plus side of the battery makes the cone move out and the minus side makes the cone move inwards so mark the terminal that makes the cone move out when the plus side of the battery is on it.



Edits: 01/04/17 01/04/17

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  • RE: Electro-Voice Regal lll - DaveV 21:29:20 01/04/17 (0)

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