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Digitizing and archiving vinyl
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Posted on June 25, 2016 at 12:43:58 | ||
Posts: 2448
Joined: June 14, 2005 |
I'm torn about whether to go down this path, but it's certainly tempting to start shrinking my LP footprint sometime before my wife or daughter buries or cremates them with me. I'm interested in this only if it approaches all-analog performance at the top of the spectrum. The alternatives I'm considering are (1)using my Pass XP-25 to front-end a Lynx HiLo AD converter with USB or SPDIF output to CPU, or (2) buy into the Channel D construct, which in its premier model replaces a conventional phono stage with its own device that performs RIAA equalization in the digital domain and works in conjunction with the Lynx HiLo for the AD conversion. Channel D/Pure Vinyl's position seems to be that the benefits of digital equalization are an even greater determinant of a positive outcome than even the AD conversion. On the other hand, if this is so, why don't more TOTL phono stages offer digital EQ? Since both approaches share a Lynx HiLo, I suppose the logical first step is to try one out with my current phono stage. Any ideas or experiences here? Maybe a direct comparison between Channel D and a top conventional phono stage into the Lynx or other AD converters? |
RE: Digitizing and archiving vinyl, posted on June 26, 2016 at 05:09:42 | |
Posts: 23900
Location: Central Kentucky Joined: December 20, 2000 Contributor Since: January 29, 2004 |
If your goal is to make digital recordings of vinyl that sound as close as possible to what you're hearing from your system, my advice would be to use your vinyl front-end as is rather than switching to a digital phono stage. If you haven't already bought the Lynx HiLo AD converter, you might consider a TASCAM DA-3000 digital recorder. That's what I use and it seems to be very accurate. It will record in PCM up to 24/192 as well as DSD(64) and DSD(128). It also can be used as an external DAC, although it doesn't have a USB DAC input. Therefore, I use an April Music Stello U3 converter when I want to connect my computer as a music server. However, it's not really necessary to use a computer music server because it can accept a USB flash drive directly containing both PCM and DSD files. So I use it as a stand-alone digital player, too. |
RE: Recording vinyl is definitely a lot of work..., posted on June 26, 2016 at 12:47:20 | |
Posts: 23900
Location: Central Kentucky Joined: December 20, 2000 Contributor Since: January 29, 2004 |
Hi Dave, I still have digital copies from my Thorens TD-126 with my old MC-2000 and I enjoy them just as much as I enjoy any of my newer recordings from my SOTA / SME V / DL-S1 or ART7. I think any improvements you make from this point on will be small and inconsequential relative to making your digital recordings obsolete. I'll try lowering the resistance load on my ART7. I'm using 100-ohms currently. I should also have a new Vacuum Tube Audio phono stage in my system within a day or two. I will use it with my CineMag 1131 SUT to replace my Yaqin MS-22B for my SL-1200. I would love to own the XP-25 for its front-panel controls and two-turntable connectivity. I can't quite afford the price, though. Therefore, I'm hoping the Vacuum Tube Audio PH16 might sound as good or even better than my Pass Labs XOno. I'll let you know. Thanks, John Elison |
I have recorded LPs using, posted on June 27, 2016 at 00:51:46 | |
Posts: 6828
Location: Glen Burnie, MD USA Joined: December 18, 2003 |
An old Emu 0404 USB and I'm now using a TASCAM UH-7000 digital audio interface. The UH-7000 is an excellent solution if you are going to record 24/192 PCM to your computer. The UH-7000 has superb performance at 24/192 and has a better PCM only A/D converter than the DA-3000 (DA-3000 has a PCM-4202 and the UH-7000 uses a PCM-4220 A/D converter). From what I have read, the TASCAM UH-7000's use of the PCM-4220 means that the UH-7000 performs better at 24/192 but the DA-3000 includes the ability to record DSD and the UH-7000 is a PCM only unit. I was not interested in recording DSD and was also not interested in an all in one recorder solution like the DA-3000. The UH-7000 is very reasonably priced and an excellent unit. If you like I can send you sample recordings from the UH-7000 (if that helps your decision making process). The recording chain that I'm currently using is: 1) Cartridge: Denon DL-103R (retipped with boron cantilever and line contact stylus) 2) Tonearm: OEM Rega RB-300 (Michell technoweight, Incognito wiring and Riggle VTAF) 3) Turntable: Thorens TD-126 IIB (NOS, recapped and recently put into service) 4) Phono Preamp: Liberty Audio B2B-1 5) Line Preamp: Audible Illusions L1 (NOS National 7DJ8 tubes) 6) ICs: Kimber Hero 7) Computer: Toshiba P75-A7200 17" Laptop (Intel i7-4700MQ Processor, 24GB DDR3L 1600MHz RAM, 750GB HD + 480GB SSD storage) 8) NAS: WD My Cloud EX2 w/4TB RAID 1 storage) 9) OS: MS Windows 10 10) DAW SW: Sony Soundforge Audio Studio Ed Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof |
RE: Digitizing and archiving vinyl, posted on June 27, 2016 at 10:01:30 | |
Posts: 859
Joined: May 27, 2002 Contributor Since: May 2, 2007 |
There is only 3 at 192/24. I never keep the CD. |
Sweet vinyl price, posted on July 1, 2016 at 09:45:26 | |
Posts: 762
Location: Kansas Joined: February 7, 2010 |
Here's a link to another article |
I use the pencil tool, posted on July 1, 2016 at 11:46:48 | |
Posts: 6828
Location: Glen Burnie, MD USA Joined: December 18, 2003 |
In Sound Forge to remove the worst pops/clicks from recordings. I zoom in on the waveform where the pencil tools is available, locate the pop/click and just draw the offending pop/click out of the recording (draw across the pop/click). Its more tedious than applying a filter but it does not effect any other content, other than the pop or click in question. I have done this to a number of recordings and none of them have any negative side effects. I have tried other methods and they all seem to have negative effects. The manual removal approach is more work but its like your momma told you. Nothing is free. Ed Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof |
I usually use headphones, posted on July 2, 2016 at 00:15:17 | |
Posts: 6828
Location: Glen Burnie, MD USA Joined: December 18, 2003 |
I have a set of Stax Lambda Pros (full range estats) that have been excellent for the purpose. Unfortunately the driver for those is on the blink and needs to be repaired. Until then I'll use either Sennheiser HD 580, Sennheiser Momentums or HiFi Man HE 400S driven by a Schiit Lyr 2 amp for the purpose. For the purpose of finding and editing clicks and pops the Stax were superb and the HiFi Man 400S are respectable. The Sennheiser are OK and I prefer the Momentums over the HD 580s. I rarely record using my speakers. I have an full sized old office chair for headphone listening and recording. Once I record the LP sides, I split up the sides into tracks and then do whatever editing may be required. I used to use Cakewalk Sonar but Sound Forge is easy to use and does a good job with all of the tasks. It took a little while to get familiar with Sound Forge, and its editing, but once you get the hang of it its very good with all the tasks. The pencil tool is used to draw across the click or pop or whatever you want to remove. Its obvious and easy to use. You have to drill down to a very close resolution to use the pencil tool (on the upper right corner of the screen shown). The cursor changes to a pencil and whatever you draw overwrites the waveform content being displayed. I highlighted a portion of the right channel waveform to show a candidate to be removed. I start on the left hand side and draw a straight line across the center line (0db) and the waveform is replaced by the new straight line...and no pop. I upgraded my DAW and added 16 GB, it now has 24 GB RAM. That speeded up everything nicely. Even better than that was when I added a second SSD drive for recording and virtual memory purposes. My laptop now screams and everything is done very quickly (even under MS Windows 10). Ed Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof |