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Ping Michael Samra...

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Posted on January 20, 2015 at 16:52:28
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 Michael, what is the "goop" you use to adhere the film caps down with? I have tried hot glue but that won't hold the big PS film caps in place in the underside of the chassis. I am guessing that the goop you use does hold these large caps under the chassis with no problems, thanks!

 

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RE: Ping Michael Samra..., posted on January 20, 2015 at 18:08:09
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Randy
Any of them are fine..I use the household or the plumbing one or even the automotive but they are all the same for that job of mounting caps.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: Ping Michael Samra..., posted on January 20, 2015 at 18:16:19
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 thanks, Michael, so they will hold my outboard film caps in place on the metal chassis underneath? BTW, I never received the Sherwood knob, hope you didn't send it and it got lost. thanks, Randy

 

RE: Ping Michael Samra..., posted on January 20, 2015 at 19:01:20
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 also, Michael, these Vishay MKP film caps are fine for using in power supplies to replace 'lytics, correct? I ask because they are so small!

 

RE: Ping Michael Samra..., posted on January 20, 2015 at 19:23:35
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 I use the Panasonics and the Wimas and the CDEs and Unlytics..
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

thanks, Michael, I was speaking of the Wima, posted on January 20, 2015 at 19:30:24
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 DC link MKPs, not sure if they are suitable for power supplies, but I thought I had read that somewhere...

 

RE: Ping Michael Samra..., posted on January 21, 2015 at 07:23:08
Dman
Audiophile

Posts: 7211
Location: Kansas
Joined: January 28, 2001
 That'll do fine.

However, because I have access to it, I use Corning 732 Multi-Purpose Sealant.

In my case, I gotta either wear gloves when working with the stuff or take some serious anti-histamine, as I'm actually allergic to silicone (and latex- found out the "hard way"; turned out to be a bummer for me and the ladies back in my nefarious "glory days"! LOL).

Dman
Analog Junkie

 

Permatex or GC...., posted on January 21, 2015 at 10:38:18
wheezer
Audiophile

Posts: 4309
Joined: January 24, 2001
 After trying too many to count, my staple electronics adhesives are:
Permatex Sensor Safe Blue if you never want to remove the component once cured.

Next is GC Electronics grade sealant adhesive # 19-155
http://www.amazon.com/GC-Electronic-Silicone-Sealant-Adhesive/dp/B004SPJN6K
This takes some work but the part can be removed.
...Both have zero odor.

Cheers,
W

 

I bought some Goop, posted on January 21, 2015 at 13:19:01
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 Based on recommendations here on the Asylum. But after I got it home, my concern is the caution on the package: "Not recommended for use on polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, Styrofoam™, or paper products."

I often use polystyrene and polypropylene caps, and I'm not willing to risk a bad reaction between Goop and expensive caps.

Just an F.Y.I.




 

RE: Caution, posted on January 21, 2015 at 14:07:30
Russ57
Audiophile

Posts: 3754
Location: South Florida
Joined: November 16, 2001
 Standard silicone is corrosive. Make sure to use an electronics grade like Wheezer posted. The smell with associate with silicone is acetic acid.

 

RE: Caution, posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:11:02
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Russ
The household and plumbers goop doesn't have corrosive properties because I have used it for seven years now and I just puled some chassis mounted caps out of the mc240 I did six years ago and the stuff peels right off and shows no signs corrosion.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

The thing is, vintage amps you want to be able to remove the caps, posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:13:15
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 because you may want to put it back to original and thats why goop is the safest solution.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: I bought some Goop, posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:16:18
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005



I can assure from the years of using goop more than probably most anyone I have never had any issues with it and neither did Terry Dewick who does many, many ,many,amps and preamps.
I did these five years ago and there are some very some expensive analytic polys and there is no sign is any corrosion whatsoever. The soft body poly couplers I have used it on as well and I haven't had any issues yet.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: Mike, no idea what "goop" is but I can say for sure that....., posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:26:10
Russ57
Audiophile

Posts: 3754
Location: South Florida
Joined: November 16, 2001
 standard silicone caulk is corrosive. No need to take my word for it. A simple web search will provide all the answers needed. They do make acetic free silicone and that is fine.

Did find this in a MSDS sheet for plumbers goob. It would make me think twice for film caps. Maybe you didn't read it?
Not recommended for use on polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, Styrofoam™ or paper products, and any items that come into contact with food, drinking water or animals.

There is a reason why they make an electronics grade silcone adhesive. Why not us the correct product for its intended useage? Penny wise and pound foolish?

 

RE: Mike, no idea what "goop" is but I can say for sure that....., posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:53:39
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Thats possible..Its a form of silicon but its safe and thats why a little tube is five bucks.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

Goop is pretty much a high solids solvent based adhesive..., posted on January 21, 2015 at 15:54:42
Steve O
Audiophile

Posts: 12383
Location: SE MI
Joined: September 6, 2001
 ...the incompatibility with plastics takes two forms. In one form, the solvents in it attack polystyrene and similar materials like styrofoam by softening and dissolving them. The other form of incompatibility is that the stuff simply doesn't stick to some plastics like polyethylene and polypropylene because these materials are fairly inert and quite resistant to the solvents.

Personally, I don't use the stuff because I find the smell nauseating. Also, if I can't devise a mechanical of means of attaching a new part, I don't use it.

 

RE: Goop is pretty much a high solids solvent based adhesive..., posted on January 21, 2015 at 18:54:35
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Steve
Thanks for the info.I only use it because I rebuild a lot of vintage gear with exotic modern caps and I don't want to drill and cut the units up because they will kill the vintage value..This stuffs holds really well but with a quick twist you can also remove it with no traces whatsoever..On kit amps where they have preexisting holes such as in the citations or Eicos or Heathkits,I use the clamps in that situation.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

Michael, I was reading an old post of yours and I have a question..., posted on January 21, 2015 at 19:10:12
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 about the use of caps in a voltage doubler. I am restoring a Lafayette 250A that uses a voltage doubler. I noted in your article that you 3x the power supply caps off the diode, the ones in the Lafayette is 250 ufd, so would you recommend a higher value? thanks!

 

RE: Michael, I was reading an old post of yours and I have a question..., posted on January 21, 2015 at 20:28:42
Eli Duttman
Audiophile

Posts: 10455
Location: Monroe Township, NJ
Joined: March 31, 2000
 Not Mike, but the answer is yes. If you have the room, install the 820 μF. parts Jim McShane sells. You also need inrush current limiting thermistor(s). Clanging power trafos are to be avoided and "popping" fuses are no fun.

BTW, while the "beast" is on the bench, upgrade the SS diodes too.


Eli D.

 

RE: "I haven't had any issues yet", posted on January 22, 2015 at 05:22:10
1973shovel
Audiophile

Posts: 10117
Location: Greenville SC
Joined: February 25, 2007
 I have no doubts that you haven't, Mike. But it's the "yet" which concerns me. The Amazing Goop people put that warning on the package for a reason. I wouldn't want to find out what that reason was on a $250 V-Cap which turned to goo because of a chemical reaction.

I'll use Goop for electrolytics, the metal bodied Russian mica, oil, and Teflons, etc. and stick to electronics grade silicone adhesive for the plastic caps.

 

RE: thanks, Michael, I was speaking of the Wima, posted on January 22, 2015 at 08:39:19
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Yes
They are excellent in power supplies.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: thanks, Michael, I was speaking of the Wima, posted on January 22, 2015 at 08:58:29
Crazy Dave
Audiophile

Posts: 14371
Location: East Coast
Joined: October 4, 2001
 What do you think of Wima capacitors a coupling capacitors. I know they were very popular in that role for a while, but they seem to have gone out of favor.

Dave

 

RE: "I haven't had any issues yet", posted on January 22, 2015 at 09:45:27
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 No matter what you buy from aspirin to a bottle of pop to a tube of toothpaste,there are always warnings of some kind.The companies do this to cover all angles but I assure you that with all the expensive vintage gear I have,something would have shown up in seven years time..It peels off like a piece of rubber and it leaves absolutely no trace of anything.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

RE: Michael, I was reading an old post of yours and I have a question..., posted on January 22, 2015 at 11:12:06
Michael Samra
Dealer

Posts: 36118
Location: saginaw michigan
Joined: January 30, 2005
 Ditto!
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken

 

Even on KoolAid, but you should still .., posted on January 22, 2015 at 13:27:43
Crazy Dave
Audiophile

Posts: 14371
Location: East Coast
Joined: October 4, 2001

Drink the Kool-Aid!

Dave

 

Just use a little....., posted on January 22, 2015 at 17:48:43
wheezer
Audiophile

Posts: 4309
Joined: January 24, 2001
 or mount a rubber grommet(from McMaster Carr)in-between the part and the chassis with either of my recommended adhesives.
Or whatever size rubber grommet is needed. Local store bought grommets are of a plastic composite and adhere poorly.

 

ahh, a most amazing person, wish I had been at, posted on January 24, 2015 at 08:22:14
gkargreen
Audiophile

Posts: 1562
Location: DC
Joined: February 5, 2005
 his events, culture changing to say the least!

 

To say the least! (nt), posted on January 27, 2015 at 14:46:29
Crazy Dave
Audiophile

Posts: 14371
Location: East Coast
Joined: October 4, 2001

 

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