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DIY tube dampers, any one ??

129.37.42.36

Posted on March 24, 1999 at 22:17:41
Tud


 
For 6922 tubes in particular. Thanks !

 

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Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 25, 1999 at 03:05:03
Rodney Gold


 
Try heat resistant silicone O rings , a few per valve , available at Auto Stores in multitude of diameters. Could work

 

Lots out there, posted on March 25, 1999 at 05:52:34
Jack G


 
The cheapest is the 3m rings. They will fuse to the tube tho. There is also The Midas tube damper, Top Hats(Joe S.'s fav) Shun mook Valve resonators(hyperion's fav). Tubesox, and pearl tube cooler(which cool, but dont do much for resonance control).
enjoy,
Jack

 

Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 25, 1999 at 06:53:29
Joe S


 
You might also want to try the washers you can find in the plumbing department of a hardware or builders supply store - I've seen and bought a few black rounded profile versions of these in small signal tube diameters but havn't taken the time to experiment with them yet. They appear identical to the ones I've seen applied at the factory on small signal tubes by companies like Melos & Audio Research...

Joe

 

Re: Silicone O-rings and DIY "top hats", posted on March 25, 1999 at 08:33:36
Heat resistant silicone o-rings are cheap cheap cheap and you can
experiment in the number/configuration on each tube without spending
more than $1.

I also casted my own "Top Hat" style dampers. Bought a whole bunch
of lead fishing weights (on sale at K-mart for about $2/the lot). Made
a crucible out of an old can...bent the top edge to make a pouring spout.
The mould was done by wrapping numerous layers of aluminum foil around
a suitable tube (to get the proper diameter) then removed tube and
crimped bottom end shut. I put the mould into some sand...dropped the
weights into the can....melted the lead with a propane torch...and poured
the molten mass into the mould (don't breathe lead vapors, a mask would
be a good idea....but I just held my breath for the minute or so it took
to make the casting). Once cooled, I used a hacksaw to cut the solid
lead cylander into suitable "top hats" and a dremel tool to bore out the
spot for the tube nipples.

Fun stuff!

 

Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 25, 1999 at 10:30:41
Hi there,

I have spend quite some time with varying schemes. In the end I ended up using silicon rubber O-Rings and Steve's "Shim Mick" Wooden disks.

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/tweaks/

(Scroll down slightly on the page untill you see wood.)

Non of these have yet ruined my valves (and I like rare, more or less excotic and expensive stuff).

A friend of mine uses the Rings on the WE417A Valves in his Preamp, run close to the max dissipation (4 Watt in a half height 9-pin package).

I myself tend to use the Rubber Rings on really microphonic Valves (like in the MC Phono-Input).

On less effected valves (in my Line-Stage - Mullard E88CC and in the Poweramp - WE417A and Svetlana 300B) I use the "Shim Mick" Disks.

I have drilled small holes into them and added Copper Wire (1mm) in a style like the Shun Mook Valve Resonators. It keeps the disks from falling off and seems to further reduce Microphonics.

http://www.shunmook.com/text2.htm

The wooden disks also seem to open up the soundstage.

Again, even on 300B's near the max dissipation, the wooden disks have survived without burning up, though their contact-surfaces to the Valves has become darkened.

I have used both products for over a year now and would not miss them in my system. And considering the Price.... ;-)

As for metal around the valves, I agree with Steve. I believe the reason is the induction of eddy currents.

The slight loss of Detail and transparency when using metal shileds on Valves is similar to the one experiences if an Interconnect has a shield closely spaced to the conductor....

Of course, I might just be hearing things here (I definitly do BTW - mostly music of course)....

Later Thorsten

 

OOPs didn't see the DIY (rough day)(nt), posted on March 25, 1999 at 10:51:18
Jack G


 
Ò¿Ò

 

Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 25, 1999 at 13:27:59
Doc B.


 
just a sidelong thought -

The usual mechanism for external vibration to get into a small signal tube in the first place is from the chassis, through the socket, and up through the base. It might be worthwhile experimenting with different schemes for stopping the vibration before it can get to the tube by addressing the damping of the chassis itself, as well as damping the tube envelope.

I've gone crazy and put a cheapo neoprene ring wedged between the base of the tube and the socket ( get 'em at Eagle hardware in the faucet repair section, they're 35 cents and seem to be the same as the ones that sell for a buck a piece), then used an IERC type shield over the tube, topped with a really ugly but cool "hat" made by Andy Bartha which is composed of high temp silicone sealer loaded with lead birdshot. But even this isn't very effective unless the chassis itself is well damped.

The bottom line is that the internal structure of the tube dictates how badly it will ring, so the best solution is to find the least microphonic tube possible from the start, and then make sure the whole chain of materials through which vibrational energy may transfer has someplace to dissipate that energy before it can get near the tube's internals.

Now if the signal itself is resonating the internal parts... time for a different tube.

 

Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 25, 1999 at 20:48:25
Rodney Gold


 
Excellent idea , what about making a set of dies for different valves , and stamping a neoprene on teflon under valve damper , "Pin cushion" would be a good name.
Is there a problem re thickness and pin seating with something of this nature ?

 

Re: DIY tube dampers, any one ??, posted on March 26, 1999 at 06:20:36
Jack G


 
>>>The bottom line is that the internal structure of the tube dictates how badly it will ring, so the best solution is to find the least microphonic
tube possible from the start, and then make sure the whole chain of materials through which vibrational energy may transfer has
someplace to dissipate that energy before it can get near the tube's internals.<<<

I agree with the latter, and have all kinds of vibration controll under my system. As for the former, that is not always possible-at least with octal based tubes. Some of the best sounding 6SN7s are the most microphonic(Sylvanbia 6SN7Ws come to mind) and the least suseptable ones tend to be the worst sounding.;-(
Jack

 

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