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New Orleans traditional music - does it still exist?

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Posted on August 21, 2014 at 10:31:09
felrob
Audiophile

Posts: 107
Location: Vancouver
Joined: August 7, 2009
The second week of September, I will be in New Orleans for a conference. I have not been there before, and I am hoping some kind inmates with local knowledge can direct me to good clubs or dives or what-have-you where they still play authentic NO jazz and/or delta blues.

I'm told there are tourist places where they play pop and pretend it is the real thing, but...does the real thing still exist? And if so, what names should I look for and what places? I'm not familiar with the music except in general terms, but I would love to learn!

Thanks for the help.

 

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RE: New Orleans traditional music - does it still exist?, posted on August 21, 2014 at 15:39:50
fantja
Audiophile

Posts: 15518
Location: Alabama
Joined: September 11, 2010
Felrob-

NO is a wonderful music city. Start listening to wwoz.org over the net for more information about the musical events. Upon checking into your hotel, there will be some useful info as well. Have Fun!

 

I second WWOZ for a taste of NO, posted on August 22, 2014 at 05:30:40
SamA
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Posts: 2902
Location: Washington, D.C.
Joined: February 12, 2004
Great radio station. One of the few left in the US of A that when you turn it on you immediately know you're in New Orleans.

My favorite thing when in NO is just wander (away from Bourbon Street) and pull up a seat and grab a beer to listen to a set and then move on to the next door for another beer and set. You can't beat it. WWOZ airs where the action is.

One of the best music experiences I've had was in NO. I turned into one place and grabbed a beer and saw what trio with a guitar, tuba and washboard can do. Amazing. People were dancing. Look for Washboard Chaz.

Enjoy.

 

RE: I second WWOZ for a taste of NO, posted on August 22, 2014 at 12:37:49
felrob
Audiophile

Posts: 107
Location: Vancouver
Joined: August 7, 2009
Thanks for the responses - I'll tune into the online radio and start my toe tapping. By the way - when you say "away from Bourbon Street, do you mean staying within the French Quarter or is there another section of town with lots of music?

 

Yes!, posted on August 22, 2014 at 13:13:44
belyin
Audiophile

Posts: 1285
Location: New Orleans
Joined: November 1, 2003
In fact, sometimes it feels like that is all there is these days. To what degree the trad revival involves the "real" and "authentic" is an open question, but then again "the real" is problematic enough.

That said, I would say there are four strains of traditional jazz played right now in New Orleans (with some over-lap and border crossing, of course.) The first involves established musicians in the field who either trace their lineage to the beginnings of jazz in New Orleans (through family members and/or teachers) and/or have undertaken serious study of the form. When in town, these performers can be heard at Preservation Hall, the Palm Court, and Fritzel's Jazz Pub–all in the French Quarter. Some of the performers you should be able to hear (either as leaders as sidemen) include clarinetists Dr. Michael White, Evan Christopher, Tom Fisher, Tim Laughlin; trumpeters LeRoy Jones, Mark Braud, Greg Stafford; trombonists Lucien Barbarin, Freddy Lonzo, Charlie Halleran; pianists Tom McDermott, Steve Pastorious; drummers Louis Cotrell, Shannon Powell; banjo/guitar Don Vappie, Carl LeBlanc, etc.

Second group would be the younger trad revivial bands that perform either on the street (Royal Street) of in many of the clubs on Frenchmen St.(popular entertainment zone just past the French Quarter.) Much of this scene owes it's original popularity to the "swing dance" revival of a few years ago, and the music they play brings a looser vibe mixed with a bit of hipster retro-ness, which I find a bit shallow compared to the deep musicians above (but this is a minority opinion, apparently.) Some the names to look for are Aurora Nealand and her Royal Roses, Shotgun Jazz Band, and the New Orleans Moonshiners.

The third group takes its cue from Louis Armstrong (in his role of popular entertainer rather than jazz virtuoso and revolutionary,) and practitioners in this style are popular in both the tourist world and in the neighborhoods. Kermit Ruffins is the outstanding example here, and he now owns the Mother-In-Law Lounge (once owned by New Orleans iconoclast Ernie K-Doe who had a #1 hit with "Mother-In-Law" (covered by the Beatles,)) and it is great neighborhood bar to hear music in this style. Besides Kermit, look for Leon "Kid Chocolate" Brown, and James Andrews.

The fourth strain is brass band music. In some sense it is the most traditional, as brass bands still provide an essential social function in the African-American community just as they did 100 years ago. But as a living tradition, the music of the younger and more popular bands has changed considerably. The Dirty Dozen revolutionized the form by bringing in bebop and modern jazz riffs and tunes, and the Rebirth took it form there by adding funk, r'and b', and now hip-hop rhythms to the mix. Modern brass bands are now hard hitting outfits who now favor massed sound over subtle interplay and group improvisation. The Treme Brass Band is the most traditional sounding (but still very hip.) They can be heard every Tuesday at D.B.A. on Frenchmen Street (prime popular music strip) and Wednesday at the Candlelight in the Treme neighborhood. The Rebirth have a long standing late night Tuesday gig at the Maple Leaf (Uptown) for a collegiate crowd. Other bands to look for are Soul Rebels, Stooges, Hot 8, T.B.A. Brass Band.

And of course if you are open to some jazz at the opposite end of the spectrum, MacArthur "genius" grant winner and famed Chicago free jazz musician Ken Vandermark will be in New Orleans Mon. Sept. 8 for a concert at Loyola University with drummer Al Fielder from Jackson MS (a founding member of the AACM,) and New Orleans musicians James Singleton (great modern bassist is also a wonderful trad. player) and trombonist Jeff Albert. The following night Ken will be at the weekly Open Ears series on Frenchmen Street with cellist Helen Gillet and drummer Marcello Benetti.

 

RE: Yes! and here we go!, posted on August 22, 2014 at 15:15:09
felrob
Audiophile

Posts: 107
Location: Vancouver
Joined: August 7, 2009
Thanks *very* much for the detailed response and suggestions. That is exactly what I was hoping to get from the post - awesome! It looks like I won't be sleeping much that week. That, too, I suspect, is traditional.

 

RE: New Orleans traditional music - does it still exist?, posted on August 22, 2014 at 18:07:54
dancingseamonkey
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Posts: 3455
Location: New Orleans, birth place of jazz.
Joined: May 1, 2006
Contributor
  Since:
November 24, 2009
I can't add much to the post below but I posted a link to the Offbeat magazine on line, you can pick up a hard copy when you arrive. You can sleep when your dead. Laissez les bon temps rouler.









"Trying is the first step towards failure."
Homer Simpson

 

Out of curiosity, posted on August 22, 2014 at 23:18:56
kavakidd
Audiophile

Posts: 20316
Location: Upstate NY
Joined: April 15, 2004
does the Lousiana Repertory Jazz Ensemble of New Orleans still exist? If they do - and if they perform at any venues - they are an excellent bet.
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain

 

RE: Out of curiosity, posted on August 23, 2014 at 07:57:43
belyin
Audiophile

Posts: 1285
Location: New Orleans
Joined: November 1, 2003
They only perform at festivals and special events, but many of the musicians who perform with this group play regularly in New Orleans including many who I have listed above.

 

Good to know, posted on August 23, 2014 at 13:49:39
kavakidd
Audiophile

Posts: 20316
Location: Upstate NY
Joined: April 15, 2004
thanks!
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain

 

RE: New Orleans traditional music - does it still exist?, posted on August 23, 2014 at 21:26:17
felrob
Audiophile

Posts: 107
Location: Vancouver
Joined: August 7, 2009
Let them roll indeed. I'm getting excited about the visit, but for reasons my boss would probably not support. Yahoo!

 

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