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The great IVa unsocking begins

32.212.76.154
Posted on September 7, 2015 at 17:07:28
josh358
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Joined: February 9, 2010



Took the socks off two of the woofer panels. I'm fairly pleased with what I found -- they're starting to delaminate at the ends, but the wire is fine. I hope to get the midrange unveiled tomorrow, if I can find my soldering iron -- it looks like I'll have to unsolder the ribbon tweeter to get the sock off.







 

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Project time., posted on September 7, 2015 at 18:17:15
grantv
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Location: B.C.
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 This would be a very fun project! When I bought my 3.6's I was keeping my eyes open for IVA's as an option. Would have been great fun.
Now I have to get back into my shop to work on my AC Cobra build (kidding, but another project that I wouldn't mind taking on).

 

RE: Project time., posted on September 7, 2015 at 18:39:48
josh358
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Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 A friend of mine rebuilt an Indian motorcycle a few year sago -- what he started with was little more than a frame!

I'm thinking that I may redo the midrange with foil -- I was originally going to use the Neo 8's but the price of those has soared since BG was sold. The next question is how far do I take it -- do I got for single pole crossovers? I haven't exposed/measured the midrange width yet but that would likely entail some driver modifications for better dispersion above the crossover point, as in the 3.7. If I left the lower crossover point the same, I'd likely need to make it a 1.5-way, and do the same thing on the center woofer panel. Tympani IVa.7?

Or, I could just triamp with a wicked sharp FIR filter . . .

 

RE: Good luck!! They should sound terrific at the end. nt, posted on September 7, 2015 at 19:09:40
andyr
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Posts: 12548
Location: Melbourne
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 .

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 7, 2015 at 19:40:49
MWE
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Posts: 2202
Location: Burlington, NC
Joined: June 8, 2000
 If your friend hasn't already seen it, he MUST see the Anthony Hopkins film, "The World's Fastest Indian".

Mark in NC
Mark in NC
"The thought that life could be better is woven indelibly into our hearts and our brains" -Paul Simon

 

RE: Good luck!! They should sound terrific at the end. nt, posted on September 8, 2015 at 04:51:55
josh358
Industry Professional

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Joined: February 9, 2010
 Thanks, Andy. Truth is, at this point, I would be delighted with any sound at all. :-)

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 8, 2015 at 05:16:06
josh358
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Joined: February 9, 2010
 Thanks, looks cool -- I sent it on to him.

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 8, 2015 at 07:17:02
guitar slim
Audiophile

Posts: 168
Location: Washington DC suburbs
Joined: May 24, 2012
Awesome project, Josh!


Thanks again for the help you gave me in setting up my T-IVs.

BTW, I'm still liking the tri-amp/DEQX approach. It makes it realatively easy to optimize the system for both the speakers and the room.

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 8, 2015 at 09:08:50
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Hey Slim,

I'll admit, it feels really good to be able to get back to work on my own equipment, rather than watching everyone else doing fun things with theirs. :-)

I think the tri amp/DEQX approach is spot on, BTW. But for me, it's someday -- I have only two decent amps (an old Hafler makes the third, not good enough for this use) and no DEQX or multichannel DAC (the original multichannel card I purchased won't fit in my new computer owing to bus constraints).

I do want to try a high slope FIR crossover since so many rave about them and it will affect what I do with both the panels and my system.

 

RE: The great IVa unsocking begins, posted on September 8, 2015 at 15:25:39
Cameraman
Audiophile

Posts: 396
Location: 33701
Joined: September 25, 2011
 Good luck please keep us posted verbally and visually
I am dying for a pair
Thanx

 

RE: The great IVa unsocking begins, posted on September 8, 2015 at 16:44:32
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Will do -- got sidetracked today when my washing machine sprung a leak so no progress.

Hope you get your Tympanis!

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 9, 2015 at 06:07:43
Utley1
Audiophile

Posts: 1609
Location: NYC
Joined: July 30, 2010
 Josh: I have an old Yamaha M4; It is gladly yours if you need it for your project. I am in NYC. Cheers, UT

 

RE: The great IVa unsocking begins, posted on September 9, 2015 at 17:55:52
kh6idf
Audiophile

Posts: 1474
Location: Texas
Joined: May 2, 2001
 My SMGc's were about like that, peeling up at the ends maybe 2 inches. I used DAP contact cement after cleaning the mylar with acetone and letting them dry. DAP on the wire plus DAP on the mylar, let dry for the recommended time then press them together. There's no way those ends will ever come loose again!

 

RE: The great IVa unsocking begins, posted on September 16, 2015 at 05:16:51
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 That's what concerns me -- what happens when the rest of the adhesive goes or the wires corrode as they eventually do? (The air here is a bit salty since I'm near Long Island Sound).

I was thinking of making a temporary repair with the Magnepan adhesives instead.

Another possibility is that one of my panels probably has to go back to Magnepan because Fedex put a dent in the back so if I can't fix that myself I might send all the woofers back and have them rebuilt. Ribbons seem fine, no sag (I've only checked one so far) and I plan to redo the mids with foil, so I'll do that part myself.

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 16, 2015 at 05:21:54
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Thanks, Utley, what a generous offer! I may take you up on it. It's going to be a while before I get to that stage -- my washing machine leaked so I've had to halt my speaker project and replace wet sheetrock instead. :-|

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 16, 2015 at 06:31:44
Utley1
Audiophile

Posts: 1609
Location: NYC
Joined: July 30, 2010
 You are most welcome. It is a sweet sounding instrument. As I 'can't' bi-amp my 1.7's. and my nephews cannot afford a pre-amp- it is yours. (Lights do not work but otherwise it is fine - had used 6 months ago when Emotiva xpa1 was being repaired. Sounded full . E-mail me privately for my phone when you want them. Should work well in bi-amp set up.

 

RE: Indian, posted on September 20, 2015 at 18:12:20
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Ok, sure, thanks.

 

Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 7, 2015 at 19:36:36
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 I finally finished fixing the flood damage from my leaking washing machine and was able to get back to unsocking my mid-tweeter panels. It turns out that the wires and Mylar are intact, and the ends haven't lifted:



There is a bit of delamination over the tape that sections the drivers. I assume that it would be amenable to a spot repair.

The ribbons seem to be in good shape too:



Aside from the panel that Fedex dented, they look like they're playable as is.

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 7, 2015 at 23:30:10
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 I cannot see your last pictures!

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 8, 2015 at 05:38:33
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Oops, thanks for letting me know, problem fixed.

Unfortunately, my photo of the delamination didn't come out at all. Maybe I'll snap another one later.

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 8, 2015 at 06:21:38
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 I can see them now! Do you have the original 3 ohm ribbons or the later 2 ohm + resistor?

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 8, 2015 at 08:05:31
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 I'm not sure yet, only had time yesterday to cut the socks off the front, I have to reassemble the woofer panels before I can lay the mid-tweeters down and remove the staples. I think though that my tweeters are soldered in place, which would presumably mean they're the early version? I have to look more closely to make sure.

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 8, 2015 at 22:25:07
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010


My T-IVa are early ones, the connection panels do not even have the attenuator resistors.

The ribbon drivers are soldered (I think they all were). If the original 3 ohm ribbon need to be replaced, you will get the thicker 2 ohm ribbon + resistor. That will also change the frequency response of the tweeters as Magnepan suggest to insert the series resistor ahead the crossover.

 

RE: Just Unsocked the Mid-Tweeter Panels, posted on October 9, 2015 at 06:13:35
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Thanks, I'll have to check my serial numbers and open up the crossover panels. Maybe today, depending on logistics.

 

More M-T Pix, posted on October 11, 2015 at 16:10:00
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 A mid-tweeter panel from the front with the sock removed:



The midrange from the back. Note that the diaphragm is much wider than the front opening and that only the part within the front opening is actively driven. This would be done to improve dispersion. You can see where the wood covers the diaphragm in front on either side of the lit-up holes. In the center, you'll see a damping strip, glued to the back of the pole piece. The damping strip covers about half of the actively-driven area and would presumably be most effective there, as the diaphragm velocity is highest in that region. Perhaps it also serves to discourage excessive diaphragm dishing? Otherwise, it's the opposite of where you'd want it for acoustic shading to improve dispersion -- any shading would increase lobing at smaller wavelengths.



Lots of staples, ouch:



Crossover:



Oops! Does anyone have any coil glue?



It seems my ribbon tweeters are the version with the 1 ohm resistor:



Channels for the wires to the ribbon:



Some Delam where the tape segments the midrange diaphragm into four parts. As usual, you can play a musical scale on the segments.


 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 11, 2015 at 18:34:12
Norman M
 Wow, you got a lot of work cut out for yourself. I was never capable in that regard, but even if I were I would have chosen to ship them there speakers to Magnepan to refurbish. However if I wouldn't choose to undertake the costs involved I would either continued listening to music using headphones or killed myself (most likely the former of the two).

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 03:20:03
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 The diaphragm is driven over the whole area not just in the center! The width is about 80 mm. The edge of the driver is very wide, about 40 mm.


I see that your IVa have a different damping, mine are different.

http://www.twin-x.com/groupdiy/albums/userpics/6panelback.JPG

There are also some felt around the ribbon slot on mine.

http://www.twin-x.com/groupdiy/albums/userpics/4panelfront.JPG

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 05:00:44
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Believe me, I've thought in the last few days that headphones aren't such a bad idea. :-)

Seriously, I had to open them to assess their condition, since I didn't even know if they had to be refurbished. As it turns out, the drivers aren't in terrible shape, they're playable as is, and I should be able to tack down the delaminated ends easily enough to keep them going for a few more years. So no need to send them back now, except for the woofer panel that FedEX dented with a forklift.

Also, my plan was to replace the midrange with Neo 8's. I'm not sure if I can do that now since Neos are in short supply, but I wasn't planning to have the M-T panels rebuilt. If I do rebuild the mids, it will be with quasi ribbon foil rather than wire.

But my first priority is going to be getting them set up as is, trying out the new amps (30 days to send the Crowns back to Amazon if they don't sound good), and experimenting with room placement.

Also I'll be doing some crossover experiments, likely with the MiniDSP. I've been discussing this with Davey, I'd planned to try high slope FIR filters on the M-T XO but he questions whether they'd sound better than high order L-R filters, so I want to try some experiments along those lines.

Plus I have to build my new HTPC so I have a good source -- parts sitting in the closet now. Even if I completely rewired the panels myself, it might take a couple of weekends, which is a lot less time than the other stuff!

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 06:04:27
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Do you mean that the driver is driven over the entire 80 mm section that's visible from the front? Because the driver is a lot wider than that and it looks to me like it's just the 80mm central section that has conductors. I assume that the Mylar goes out beyond the 80 mm section to the edges, but I haven't removed the driver from the frame and can't actually see the edges so I could be wrong.






What's your serial number? I know you mentioned it in an email but I can't find it. Mine is 021123. I'm trying to figure out whether yours are an earlier or later version. Mine seem to have a foam strip on either side of the tweeter:


 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 08:52:40
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010


Josh,
what you see to the left and right of the Mylar is glued to the spacers, not a moving diaphragm. The active part is 75-80 mm wide. I have a cross sectional drawing of the driver at my work.

The Carver, Infinity EMIT/EMIM and some BG drivers, are more like the the Irish Strathearn drivers, where just a part in the center of the diaphragm is driven and the rest is blocked.

The serial numbers of mine are 020838, so older tham yours.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 09:34:18
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Ah, OK, thanks, I had assumed the Mylar on the sides was free to move, as in the BG's. Why make the driver so wide if you're just going to glue down the edges? The XO would work better if the acoustic center of the driver were closer to the ribbon tweeter, and the width of the driver assembly now prevents that.

Speaking of Neo 8's, I just managed to round some up on Ebay using several different suppliers, so I'll be doing Satie's midrange mod! After all was said and done, I couldn't think of a better practical option -- it doesn't look like anyone is going to send me a free Diva, and as ccol as it would be to build a midrange ribbon or segmented stat from scratch, I'll be on Viagra before I have time to do that. But they won't be here for a while, some are coming on the slow boat from China and won't arrive until November or December. That will give me a chance to listen to and measure the stock configuration.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 11:13:34
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Yes, it is a pity they made the edges of the midrange drivers that wide. They could have been made a lot narrower, 100 mm (4") or so. There is trick how to somewhat shrink the center-to-center of the mids and tweeters without cutting don the midrange drives. I will show a drawing later on how I intend to mount the drivers in my modified T-IVa.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 12, 2015 at 11:29:57
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 That sounds interesting, I'm looking forward to it.

One issue I have now is that the Neos are decidedly narrower -- they fit right in the 80 mm slot. So eventually I'll want to mount them as close to the ribbon as possible, but that means new baffles (or maybe cutting a piece out next to the current one and transplanting it to the other side of the opening?).

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 17, 2015 at 22:45:32
Roger Gustavsson
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Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Here a link to a drawing of my intended mounting of the mid and tweeter.

http://twin-x.com/groupdiy/albums/userpics/10256/midtweeter.pdf

Yes, I will move all the drivers to a new frame.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 18, 2015 at 06:22:48
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 Looks like you can get rid of a lot of the slack space.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 13, 2015 at 21:45:14
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 How are you going to mount the tweeter to the mids? Clamp them together? Glue?

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 13, 2015 at 22:14:43
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Screws. Will go for some kind of lossy mounting, would like to avoid rattling or transmitting of vibrations.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 14, 2015 at 15:52:13
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 How about foam padded double sided mounting tape? strong and has good lossiness and saves you drilling through the mid drivers. Only downside is that they can be a bit difficult to remove and will get brittle in a decade or two.

 

RE: More M-T Pix, posted on October 14, 2015 at 21:59:25
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 I will drill holes in the sides of the midrange driver. As you can see, I will flip the ribbon tweeter so it will not have any restricting metal in front of it. In the way Magnepan mount the ribbon tweeter about half the ribbon is covered by the ribbon cage.

 

Making Progress, posted on October 16, 2015 at 18:37:12
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 The woofer panels are back together, and I unsoldered the ribbon tweeters soI could remove the rest of the old fabric. Ribbons go back in tomorrow and then I have to hunt through the closet for the hardware so I can put the feet on and fire them up.

Naturally, I'm missing one of the little nylon feet. I do not want to go to Home Depot just to get a nylon foot!


 

RE: Making Progress, posted on October 17, 2015 at 06:52:06
Norman M
 Well then you can go to Home Depot and buy a set of 8 (matching) new ones.

Very nice work, if mine ever require fixing, and you're willing to take on a (paid for) job, consider yourself hired.

 

RE: Making Progress, posted on October 17, 2015 at 08:12:34
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 That's an idea! Actually, I think they only come in packs anyway.

 

Getting there, posted on October 24, 2015 at 07:50:17
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010



It took me an entire day to find the hardware for the feet! But they're standing up now and I hope to try them with the A21 this afternoon. In particular, I'm curious about the woofer panel that Fedex damaged -- the dent isn't very deep and it's near the hold down, so I'm hoping that the diaphragm won't hit it. Otherwise, it's back to Magnepan for their magnet panel fixing tool or, that failing, a new driver.

Just roughly in place now, I'm going to try them first in line to get a benchmark and then try the split configuration. I put the tweeters on the outside but either way, the tweeters won't be in the right place, either too close or too far.

To my surprise, I like the look without the socks, so I used some flat black paint to touch up the areas they missed in the spray booth. If I put grille cloth back on I think I'm going to dispense with the socks and use Velcro on the front and back.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 24, 2015 at 11:04:11
Norman M
 If there are neither socks nor grill clothes on the speakers as you pictured, they are 'pretty decent I must say'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAE4AOP6xKs

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 24, 2015 at 12:05:29
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 :-)

I was surprised.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 24, 2015 at 19:36:16
TitaniumTroy
Audiophile

Posts: 626
Location: Mishawaka, Indiana
Joined: October 14, 2006
 Very nice looking job you have done their Josh, their current look reminds me of a very wide ET LFT 8B. I like the idea of having the mid/tweet panel separate from the bass panels, gotta keep those resonances to a minimum.

Quick off topic question, how much more bass does a Tympani III with it's 4 panels per side have vs the more standard 3 panels?

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 25, 2015 at 07:12:37
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 You know, you're right, it does look a bit like an LFT-8!

I don't know the answer re the Tympani III. I assume you'd get higher maximum output because you have more surface area and Fequal is lower (larger total baffle size) but those aren't the only things that affect bass output -- magnet strength, diaphragm/magnet spacing, TS parameters all have an effect. Magnepan points out though that it's important to match woofer size to the room and Wendell told me once that when you make a super system with lots of woofer panels, the effect is impressive at first but grows fatiguing.

What I'm doing is somewhat different -- these IVA's will have too much bass in this tiny room so I'll equalize the bass down. I wouldn't have bought them if I'd expected to be stuck in this little listening room forever! But while it's the only room I can use now, once I EQ the bass down I should get lower distortion and more headroom.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 25, 2015 at 10:13:14
Norman M
 IMO listening to a friends T-III it has one hell of a lot more bass and the 'soundstage' offered by the 8 panels is an entirely different animal. In this case, compared with the 6 panel Tympanis it's a night vs. day difference which is indescribable and must be heard to possibly understand where to begin. (Back during those days I owned T-1Cs in a ARC system; SP-3-A1, D76A's EC2a X-O, while my friend was driving his using Crown DC300-As and a SP-3A-1 preamp.)

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 26, 2015 at 12:55:04
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Can you be more specific about the soundstage of the 8 panel T-IIIB compared to other Tympani models?

Never saw a IIIb first hand.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 27, 2015 at 08:40:04
Norman M
 Unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity to become familiar with a Tympani IIIB. (I purchased the IIIB and my dealer delivered and set them up in my home ...... but that's a long and tedious story). My familiarity *was* with the 1C (and I want to emphasize the "was" because it occurred ~30 years ago).

A friend owned Tympani IIIAs while I had Tympani 1Cs. We spent a lot of time together in each others homes. Both our wives would chat elsewhere in the house while we listened to recordings of all genre and formats; 78s, some 45s, O/R tapes, even on occasion FM, Metropolitan Opera Live, he had an original model Serquerra Tuner with its impressive scope to cause my envy, but mostly LPs. (He was also into pop recordings and could play the trombone, well 'sorta' at least.) Our joint listening wasn't limited to our systems. We had subscriptions to concerts in different venues all around town, where we (plus wives) sat along side each other in what we both agreed were prime seating locations; Carnegie and Avery Fisher Halls and concerts at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, come to mind.

All I can confidently say is that the III-A was such a 'different animal' from my 1C, that I decided to buy a pair from my Maggie dealer (where I also purchased all my major electronics (ARC and GAS amps, ARC X-O, turntable/arm/cartridge, O/R tape deck, to mention a few). Unfortunately, for one reason or another, he convinced me to buy the Tympani IIIB, which he later learned was useless with the electronics I bought from him and he thought could be used to drive a IIIB.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 27, 2015 at 11:28:26
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Sorry I got the model wrong

I was referring to your friend's IIIA, which I didn't get to hear either.

I am just looking for what ways it was different in tonal balance and soundstaging/imaging performance.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 27, 2015 at 13:00:04
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2055
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Nice to see these threads on Tympanies!

The IC and IIIA are a bit different but share many things.

¤ The bass drivers. IC has aluminium wiring (8 ohm), IIIA copper wiring AWG 24 (8 ohm). I think there is an important difference, the IIIA goes deeper without disturbing the midrange.
¤ Only the IIIA has a dedicated midrange driver operating from about 100 (depending on a external crossover) to 1500 Hz. Wiring is thin aluminium AWG 26 (8 ohm).
¤ Tweeters are the same, wiring AWG 35, about 7.6 ohm.

The ID and IIIB are a bit like that too.

¤ ID has two bass drivers up to 1100 Hz. I think the IIIB has the same bass drivers. Wiring AWG 22.
¤ IIIA has a dedicated midrange driver. Thin aluminium wiring (4 ohm). AWG?
¤ Tweeters are the same, wiring AWG 36, about 4.8 ohm (?).

Te IIIA and IIIB have two drivers/each side carrying directional information. That give a sharper focus on sounstageing. IC and ID have directional information from three very spaced drivers/each side, giving a blurred image of the soundstage - the wide mouth effect some call it here in Europe.

I cut down my IIIA thirty years ago (they are no longer in a working condition). Mounted the drivers close to each other, really made things better. Had a listening to the Tympani IV then, similar imageing/soundstageing to my modified IIIA. Sure, the IV was better in many areas, the ribbon drivers and the upper mid for instance. Not sure about the bass. The higher mass basses of the IIIA does not work very well at higher frequencies but as I had a fourth order active crossover rolling them off at 100 Hz this did not show up that clear.

My IVa drivers are still resting in my garage... Sure, I am curious to hear them but I have no time for finish their modification (new baffles/frames). In the mean time, my 3.6 will give me some planar sound.

 

RE: Getting there, posted on October 27, 2015 at 17:11:24
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12332
Joined: February 9, 2010
 We called it the "giant mouth" effect here. :-)

 

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