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Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies

98.145.163.72
Posted on August 31, 2015 at 17:08:00
mbnx01
Audiophile

Posts: 7956
Location: Eagle, Idaho
Joined: October 22, 2004
 The top line anti-cable jumpers would only be $45 a set.

The base model would only be $25.

I've ordered a pair of analysis plus jumpers to try since that's what I have for speaker wire.





'A lie is halfway around the world before the truth gets its boots on'. -Mark Twain

 

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RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on August 31, 2015 at 17:38:18
ahendler
Audiophile

Posts: 5151
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Joined: January 24, 2003
 They should make a definite improvement in sound
Alan

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on September 1, 2015 at 09:28:46
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2054
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Why spending that kind of money when you can do a better solution with some DIY? Unscrew the connecting panel and just move the connections in order to bypass the jumper(s). A better way is to solder as many connections as possible, avoiding some metal-to-metal screw connections open to corrosion.

 

RE: Before you replace..., posted on September 1, 2015 at 11:18:44
BigguyinATL
Manufacturer

Posts: 3475
Joined: April 10, 2002
 Try just a loosening and tightening of all your connection... then change the jumpers out - and the change back to the straps and the bay to the jumped - to see if the changes are real or imagined...
"The hardest thing of all is to find a black cat in a dark room, especially if there is no cat" - Confucius

 

My preference..., posted on September 1, 2015 at 12:58:11
grantv
Manufacturer

Posts: 7724
Location: B.C.
Joined: January 15, 2002



Jumpers are all fine and good, but bypassing that altogether; better yet. Hard to tell, but the wires from the drivers are pushed thru from inside to mate directly with the speaker wires. The factory clamps are only clamping the wires directly together... No fuses, no jumpers, no connectors in path.

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on September 1, 2015 at 13:55:49
ahendler
Audiophile

Posts: 5151
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Joined: January 24, 2003
 Some people just don't want to do DIY stuff to there equipment. The jumpers are easy and not that expensive
Alan

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on September 1, 2015 at 17:49:02
neolith
Audiophile

Posts: 4842
Location: Virginia
Joined: February 21, 2002
Contributor
  Since: December 2, 2004
 The jumper is just a wire, a very short one at that. It gives you the option of inserting a resistor (or 10 uH choke) to tame the tweeter. Most people don't need the option. Save your money by doing one of the following:

1) Buy 1 foot of 12-14G THHN (solid) wire at Home Depot or Lowes. Cut a 2" piece and use it as the jumper. If you have some NM conduit just strip out a wire instead.
2) Get some magnet wire from RS, take a few pieces and twist together to get the desired guage. Scrape off the coating at the ends with a razor blade. Use it like above.
3) Open up the panel and move one of the wires from one of the jumper terminals to the other (requires soldering). No jumper is the best jumper.
4) Send me the $45



"Our head is round in order to allow our thoughts to change direction." Francis Picabia

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on September 1, 2015 at 23:27:09
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2054
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010

An example on the 3.6, it is similar on other models. If you want to bypass the steel jumpers, just move the red wire to the black one right of it. Only the nuts need to be touched. Even better is to solder the red wire directly to the fuse terminal. My point is to remove as many joints as possible. It can be done all they way back to the driver connections. Yes, bypassing the fuses is another step...

 

The way to go. (nt), posted on September 2, 2015 at 10:39:27
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002

 

Pedro Gunn took mine out..., posted on September 2, 2015 at 17:39:45
Ozzie
Audiophile

Posts: 3814
Joined: August 1, 2002
 and my little MMGs have not sounded the same ever since. Come to think of it, he also got rid of the sound degrading fuse and fuse block.

Admittedly I did both on another set of mini Maggies, with excellent results. And the foils are still intact.

 

the Analysis Plus jumpers are stunning, posted on September 3, 2015 at 19:12:58
mbnx01
Audiophile

Posts: 7956
Location: Eagle, Idaho
Joined: October 22, 2004
 I'm not a big 'everything makes a difference' kinda guy. The fuses.. eh.

But the Analysis plus jumpers make these speakers WAY BETTER.

It's dramatic. If you're using the metal or the resister loose it pronto.




'A lie is halfway around the world before the truth gets its boots on'. -Mark Twain

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on September 3, 2015 at 21:41:53
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
 I used about 4 inches or so of #6 solid.
It measures about .155"in diameter while the jumpers measure about .152" or so.
After forming, I spun the new jumper down to size using 400SiC sandpaper and some deoxit as a 'lube'.
Total cost could NOT have exceeded 2$ for all 4 jumpers.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: I suggest that 0.152" (3.8mm) diam is waaay too big for tweeter jumpers. ..., posted on September 3, 2015 at 22:40:48
andyr
Manufacturer

Posts: 12548
Location: Melbourne
Joined: September 2, 2000
 so I suggest you buy yourself some 24g inductor wire - or Cat5 twisted pairs which have a teflon coating (Belden 1585a) - and make up a pair of jumpers for the tweeters. (2x 24g wires will be well big enough for the tweeter current - but, if you're paranoid about this, use 2x twisted pairs. :-)) )

Then, when you've seen the advantage of these thin wires on the tweeter ... make up jumpers with 4x 24g for the mids.


Regards,

Andy

 

RE: I suggest that 0.152" (3.8mm) diam is waaay too big for tweeter jumpers. ..., posted on September 3, 2015 at 23:49:47
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
 Too late.
First, i will never add resistance to the tweeter. I'm more likely to jumper OUT the fuse.

And, I've gone biamp with a stereo amp per speaker and therefore the jumpers are GONE.

One question, though. How do you get the 2x24ga to make firm contact with the socket? The set screw, I don't think, will go the job.

And don't forget, all I did was duplicate the original dimensions in a much better material. The stock jumper is chrome plated steel. It IS magnetic.

Too much is never enough

 

RE: mmmm - I'm not suggesting you add resistance, mate. nt, posted on September 4, 2015 at 00:10:07
andyr
Manufacturer

Posts: 12548
Location: Melbourne
Joined: September 2, 2000
 .

 

RE: mmmm - I'm not suggesting you add resistance, mate. nt, posted on September 4, 2015 at 08:06:59
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
 I just duplicated, as closely as possible the original jumper, but using a much better material.
For a cost-no-object version, I'd use some 'continuous cast' single crystal wire.

I think Magnepan was constrained by having a million of those plugs around, designed for banana connectors.

Now that I think about it, while the banana is a very convenient item, I'd probably rather have a conventional binding post.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on May 28, 2017 at 06:03:29
inhomecare3@gmail.com
Audiophile

Posts: 1
Location: Virginia
Joined: May 28, 2017
 Hello, Im new to the Planer forum. Id like to learn more about replacing the Jumpers in my maggies but first id like to let you know what im running.

Maggy .7s
Byston 4BSST 500 WPC into 4 ohm
Parasound Classic pre amp
2 Rythmik l12 direct servo controled powered subs.
Onkiyo cd player
Am interested in hearing about what i need to do about replacing the factory jumpers as this seems to be the overwhelming concern for maggy owners

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on May 28, 2017 at 08:42:53
Norman M
 The right answer depends upon the 'current' degree of sunspot activity.

Making the rash assumption that it's equally capable of performing both functions, I'm using a tiny length of the same wire being used to connect the speakers to their amps.

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on May 28, 2017 at 10:41:31
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 You don't have jumpers in your model. You do have a connection plate with connectors and a fuse holder that can be readily improved upon by bypassing the fuse and changing the binding posts to non magnetic ones. The Cardas low profile ones are a popular choice here and are not very expensive. Do a search of the asylum on that and you will find some of the many things people have tried. Your amp should be sufficient for the .7s so that you can probably get away with no fuse and bypass the fuse holder, particularly so since you are using subwoofers which take off a substantial load from the speaker and amp. But you do run a higher risk of frying your tweeters under extreme conditions. This would also void the warranty.

 

RE: Replacing the metal jumpers in your maggies, posted on May 29, 2017 at 20:33:20
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
 I replaced the jumpers on my 1.6s with short lengths of #6 copper bent to shape. 'Spin' each end of the jumper in 600grit SC paper to get to the right size......Done.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: I suggest that 0.152" (3.8mm) diam is waaay too big for tweeter jumpers. ..., posted on May 29, 2017 at 21:37:03
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
 I wish I could remember. The actual measure (Micrometer) was somewhere UNDER and I hand turned 'em down using 600SC .

I'm guessing a standard banana plug at over 3mm. 4mm is 0.157 (plus)
#6 = 0.162" and that's why I chose it to 'start'.

Dirt cheap, too, and allowed me to rid myself of the Chrome Plated Steel jumpers which made me nuts since they were higher resistance AND magnetic.


Too much is never enough

 

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