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Magnet wire gauge combo question

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Posted on February 20, 2015 at 05:50:56
dcuhl
Audiophile

Posts: 148
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USA
Joined: January 13, 2013
I have loosely (non-twisted) cobbled together 2 strands of 26 gauge (green) and 1 strand of 30 gauge (red) Radio Shack magnet wire to drive the top end of my Maggie 1.6's, (both + and -) using the stereovox speaker cables for the bottom end. This combo replaces the stereovox for both, with 15 gauge Mundorf 99% silver, 1% gold wire with Teflon insulation removed and a silk sleeve used instead, for the high-low jumpers. The results are a fuller mid range, adequate bass but, the very top end sparkle is gone. I'm thinking I either need to run the cables in more or change the magnet wire configuration to add more 30 gauge and perhaps less of the 26 gauge. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

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RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 20, 2015 at 09:39:16
JBen
Audiophile

Posts: 3082
Location: South FL
Joined: May 18, 2008
Contributor
  Since:
July 26, 2010
Coincidentally, just this morning I was thinking about Magwire. It is a sad(ish) consequence of Radio Shack's closing that magnet wire will take longer to obtain. There was a time when I emptied their stock at 7 different stores in my area. Many a friend's, and my own, speaker wires are built with this magwire.

There are many useful combinations of it. When properly laid, the 26 & 30ga alone or in combo (non-twisted) have always delivered crystal clear top end. This, on my MMGs and on some very expensive box speakers we tried this on. Here are a few items that come to mind regarding your project.

Suspect every contact point in wiring and hookups. When in doubt, clean.

Make sure that the wires are not being affected by nearby electromagnetic fields. These will easily affect the top end extension. In addition, these fields will easily collapse 3D imaging and soundstage, which can be uniquely rich with some Magwire combinations, if the system can deliver the goods. Al Sekela made excellent points about EMF & RF, which apply to all aspects of the system, and it helped my system grandly. For example, those little walwart transformers usually stay in "stealth mode", doing all kinds of mischief on SQ. Look at ALL signal cable paths carefully...3"+ separation from them walwarts may suffice. The same goes for unshielded power cords, I actually eliminated them all.

Undue vibrations may also kill the goodies. Years ago, at the behest of Dawnrazor, I learned to respect this on Magwire. One test was particularly dramatic. When I sheathed two 10ft lengths of Magwire in a rubber tube, it all sounded very well for such thin wire. However, when I filled the tube with oil (experimentally) the damping and isolation that the oil added seems to have made for the major jump in SQ observed. The lesson was applied later, in my current implementation.

For a few years now, my own implementation is called MultiMag 842R, in 10ft lengths. The 842 refers to the wires contained in the Radio Shack magwire pack:
- 8 parallel runs of 22ga next to
- 4 parallel runs of 26ga next to
- 2 parallel runs of 30ga

The combination adds to about 12ga. These are all laid parallel, sandwiched between two layers of a 2" wide ribbon of a thick "tape". For this tape, I used Carmacell's AP/Armaflex #TAP18230 from Home Depot. This is a 30ft length of 2" wide, 1/8" thick insulation tape, which provides for vibration damping and separation of each wire. The 2" width provides enough width separation to reduce undue interactions. Since I bi-amp at line level, 8 of these MultiMag ribbons are used, 2 per tweeter and 2 per mid/bass driver.

This specific formula may not be needed in many cases. In my PLLXO bi-amped MMG system, I needed the two Maggies to do most of the job alone, without a subwoofer, which they do very well. After many years, it is only now that I've begun to look into extending the lowest bass a little, with woofers. Quite often, the woofers are off and I don't know it. Along with other blessings, Multimag began to allow this to flow through...it did not "cause it".

As a reminder, what the proper cabling approach can do is to allow for "maximum everything" without adding. Cabling should not "cause", it should only "allow" what the rest of the upstream system can bring through it. Remember this as you look around for improvement opportunities.

Lunch time is over. Hope this helps!

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 21, 2015 at 04:12:25
dcuhl
Audiophile

Posts: 148
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USA
Joined: January 13, 2013
Thank you JBen, that is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. As soon as I can get to home despot I'll get some of the tape and begin construction. Again many thanks.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 21, 2015 at 08:45:10
JBen
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Posts: 3082
Location: South FL
Joined: May 18, 2008
Contributor
  Since:
July 26, 2010
Ok, I am sure you'll figure it out. Now, depending on how long and how many wires are used, you may want to have a few cheap combs to keep the wires spaced as you lay them down. I spaced them in the air with combs at each end, then stuck the first tape from the bottom. You probably don't need 10ft worth of each, like I did.

After peeling the magwire ends (light sanding paper works), soldering them together works best. Any decent banana plug will do if the solder is proper.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge , posted on February 21, 2015 at 10:29:28
dcuhl
Audiophile

Posts: 148
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USA
Joined: January 13, 2013
I thought I'd tack the exposed tape, sticky side out, from a shelf unit. put spacing marks on the rack at the top and bottom of the tape. Use small nails, in an up and down facing "V", due to the rather tight spacing of the wires and put a little pressure on them to stay straight/slightly taut. When its all to my liking, push the wires against the tape, then apply the other layer of tape and seal them together. With regard to solder, don't know yet. I have been using 1/8" diameter, hardwood dowel rods about 1" long. put the twisted wires in the hole , put the dowel rod on top of the wires and snug up the set screw. No solder, direct contact of wire to terminal and the wooden dowel soaks up a little bit of vibration and holds the wires in place without separating the twist and scaring the surface of the wire. I have another idea about a using piece(s) of fine silver tubing, but currently lack the correct size of tubing to make the attempt. Cables will be about 4 feet in length, when completed. Mono-block amps, sit to the inside of the 1.6's. Thanks again for your valuable advice.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 21, 2015 at 12:13:05
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
You need to increase the aggregate gauge of your top end wire, either with JBen's recipe or with another combo.

As it stands the resistance of the thing wires is significant and is lowering your top end's response. Besides that, the wires still need breakin. 50-100 hours is common, if you increase the gauge it will take much longer for the top end to open up.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 21, 2015 at 16:44:23
JBen
Audiophile

Posts: 3082
Location: South FL
Joined: May 18, 2008
Contributor
  Since:
July 26, 2010
Satie, careful now with claims of cable break-in...D may throw a tantrum if we over do it, LOL!

On the serious side, like you mention, the resistance is there and readily measurable with a single strand of 26 or 30ga. However, as far as I've observed, the top-end clarity takes very little time to manifest itself with ONE thin wire. That is, as long as there is a clean contact at each of the ends, and no interference fields. Part of it may have to do with the slight extra resistance itself and how some amps may like it.

On the other hand, anything more complex, like a Multimag combo, begins to really shine after a little use. At least I've always found this to be the case when I solder the bunched ends and terminals, even with silver alloys. The real fun begins at 10+ hours of vigorous playback, and keeps improving for a long while.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 22, 2015 at 01:07:24
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
Since I have not been doing multigauge wires since I went to multiamping I am sure there are many fine points that don't spring back into memory. The effect of a single or two strands of fine gauge wire on the rapid breakin at the top end is something I had observed. I recall having to take out a fine gauge wire or two out of a bundle to tame the top end after 100 or so hours as the rest of the fatter wires broke in.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on February 22, 2015 at 07:59:42
You can use my name....don't be bashful. I've never thrown a tantrum on any audio forum and I'm certainly not going to start with this one. :) As I've said numerous times, subjective evaluation is beyond discussion. It's very simple....if you hear it, it exists.

It seems there is less and less interest in objective discussions on this forum.....and that's disappointing. Echo chambers where everyone tells each other what they want to hear are pretty boring.....IMHO.
But that's just the way it goes sometimes. Oh well.

Cheers,

Dave.

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on March 1, 2015 at 17:17:07
rwiley
Audiophile

Posts: 1050
Location: Southeast
Joined: February 20, 2001
- 8 parallel runs of 22ga next to
- 4 parallel runs of 26ga next to
- 2 parallel runs of 30ga

Per polarity...right?

 

RE: Magnet wire gauge combo question, posted on March 1, 2015 at 20:38:31
JBen
Audiophile

Posts: 3082
Location: South FL
Joined: May 18, 2008
Contributor
  Since:
July 26, 2010
That is correct. This means 2 ribbon per speaker, usually. (OTOH, I bi-amp them, so I have 4 of these ribbons going to each MMG.)

 

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