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Magnepan Tympani 1d

197.87.196.49
Posted on December 13, 2013 at 08:15:18
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Hi Guys,

I just bought a set of Tympani 1ds in pretty poor shape.

The previous owner has already stripped off the wires from the 4 bass/mid panels so I am unsure of wire type (copper or aluminium) and gauge to use.
Nor am I sure if there were any double runs.
Assuming the two panels were in parallel each panel I guess has to work out to 8 ohms when wired to get the 4ohm final impedance?

Also I note the Mylar does not seem as taught as my SMGa or 1.5QRs.
Does the Mylar slacken over the years (they are quite old) - can it be retensioned - does it need it?

I also note that the one panel has a small tear in the Mylar.
Is this repairable with a small piece of high quality clear tape which has a long life adhesive?

Shipping from SA to Magnepan for a refurb is not a viable option due to excessive cost of course.

If anyone can help shed some light on my concerns and queries it would be greatly appreciated.

Looking forward to restoring these.

Thanks

Winders

 

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RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 09:08:27
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 The Tympani I-D should have 25 gauge aluminium wires, double runs in the middle. A kit from Magnepan is $50, wires, glue and solder for the four drivers. Glue will not be shipped till April, it is waterbased a can freeze.

The tension of the Mylar is lower in order to give a lower resonant frequency, they go a lot lower in the bass than the smaller models. There use to be some numbers written on the frames of the drivers, the tuning during the manufactoring. These numbers are not valid after some running in, expect a resonance at about 35 Hz. It is not possible to retension the Mylar. Small tears can be fixed with tape, maybe with the help of the same glue as for the wires.

What about the tweeters, are they still working? Magnepan sell new ones for about $475/pair. They ran out of wire for the tweeters earlier, maybe they can supply it again? A spool of wire is $7.50.

Do you need new grill cloth? The original cloth is cheaper than the "Classic" they use nowdays.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 10:11:04
john65b
Audiophile

Posts: 326
Location: Chicago
Joined: July 19, 2005
 Whatever you do, DO NOT use a hair dryer / heat gun to heat shrink the mylar, it will expand, not shrink.

I would get the kit from Magnepan and have a go at it. Get some 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to lay the wires (there is a nice trick to getting the glue to hold down the wire - you wait 30 seconds until real tacky - Sheila at Magnepan told me this tidbit), and then go over the end loops with DAP Weldwood. Finish with a thin coat of Magnepan supplied 3M N30. They won't ship it when cold (or was that just the previous Milloxane?)

A nice long weekend project. Get yourself a case of Guiness and some Coltrane background music. Maybe slip in a cigar or Apple-Mango flavored Hookah and it is quite enjoyable long weekend.
I VOID WARRANTIES

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 10:44:23
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks guys - I will contact magnepan in the new year for the rewire kit.

The tweeter... hmmm... well one is 5.3 ohms the other 10.4 so something not right there and I think opening them up may be a bit of a mission?

Thanks


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 10:54:22
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 If you open the tweeters, you can replace the Mylar with a thinner one. Sure, it is not very easy! The one that measures 5.3 ohm is faulty. There are two loops of wire connected in parallel.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 11:20:22
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Thanks Roger - so is the 1d an 8 ohm speaker?

I thought the 10.4 ohm one was faulty - sadly the panels have been stripped so I dont even know if the bass/mid sections are meant to be in parallel or series.
The tweeters are not stripped they are complete in the baffles

I did find a drawing of the wiring runs on the internet - have no idea if this is applicable to both the bass/mids.
And are the two panels then in parallel?

Without the aluminium wire to measure the resistance of say two runs/loops I cannot calculate the expected nominal resistance of all the runs per panel just yet.

Thanks
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 11:22:12
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Aha found this so I assume the 10.4 ohm tweeter is faulty i.e one run is open cct...the 5.3 ohm one is ok i.e both in parallel giving a nominal 4 ohms.




Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 11:25:38
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 The caps in my 1'ds are two 17uf in parallel - 34uf and measuring the choke its 0.68mh so seems about right...
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 12:58:43
JLindborg
Audiophile

Posts: 1037
Location: Uppsala
Joined: April 26, 2010

Yes, 10,4 Ohm would suggest that one half of the 2 parallel tweeter wires are broken.


The one who succeeded was the one who didn't know it was impossible.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 13:04:54
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Sorry, I mixed it up...

Yes, the tweeter should read slightly below 5 ohm. Most metets will not be very accurate at those low resistances. There are two loops of about 9.6 ohm each. In parallel 4.8 ohm. The one with higher readings has a faulty loop. It can be a bad connection inside the driver or a brooken wire. The wires use to come loose from the Mylar when the glue get old. The bass drivers are 8 ohm each, 4 ohm in parallel. The drawing above seem correct to me.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 13:26:59
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Excellent thanks guys all makes sense and that pic is really good too...

So I just need to order the wire now.

Best
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 13, 2013 at 13:43:50
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Just apply the glue on the wires, not allover the Mylar film.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/seekerdestroyer/4501126382/in/photostream/

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 14, 2013 at 10:02:30
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Yes I intend to make a simple jig as well to ensure all wires are straight and neatly curved - pretty much the opposite of what is in that pic.

Repairing Maggies I have a fair bit of experience with - my problem with the Tymps stems from the fact that I did not strip them so have to gather the reconstruction data...

All the wiring was stripped out - all that was left were the panels (without aluminium wire), the tweeters (unmolested) and the caps and chokes. The rest has been removed including all the connecting leads.

Thanks
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 20, 2013 at 09:47:26
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Ok I just ordered the repair kits from Magnepan and have stripped the 4 bass panels.

I just hope these will sound good when refurbed.

Any comments on the sound quality and what I can expect with Tympani 1ds?

I have an ARC D115 poweramp and ARC SP8 preamp.

Thanks
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 21, 2013 at 00:43:01
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Imagine your 1.5 QR with powerful midbass and an extra octave of bass extension. The T 1d is also better integrated and can be set up to be time coherent in a way that the 1.5 can't be.

I would guess that the tweeter might be better or about the same on the 1.5 for SQ.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 21, 2013 at 07:45:01
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Satie - I was able to improve my 1.5s bass and lower mid a lot when I refurbed them (loose wires) by changing to a low DCR inductor from Madisound. The default choke in the 1.5 was 1.3 ohms!

But that sounds great I am looking forward to the 1Ds
I assume you have a pair?


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 21, 2013 at 12:17:57
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Imageing is bad on I-D. There is directional information from all three drivers and the spacing of them makes it even worse. Maybe making them 2½ way, let the low bass driver roll-off earlier?

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on December 21, 2013 at 13:03:58
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thats a pity - imaging is pretty important - well I will have to just litsen first and see how it goes.

Fixed the tweeter - one of the solder joints of the thin ally wire on the coper tabs inside the tweeter had gone bad - all good now - just the bass panel refurb to do.

Thanks


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 11, 2014 at 10:48:30
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Ok an update - 2 bass kits and a tweeter kit and all new socks are now winging their way from Magnepan.

Whilst waiting I have built a rudimentary winding jig to ensure the wiring is neat and exact - so thats ready.

Looking at the order of panels it seems to me to strike up a bit of a conundrum:

I would have thought the outer 'bass panel' (that has the tuning strip and tuning dot) would have been better off next to the tweeter i.e in the middle. It strikes me that this one has been tuned to avoid high levels of IM between bass and midrange and hence should be the main panel you listen to and should be closest to the tweeter panel?

The T-1D centre panel as configured by Magnepan is a full bass panel and has no tuning dots.

And all pics I have seen show this tuned panel is indeed the outer one...

Thoughts and comments on this most welcome!

Ta

WM




Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 11, 2014 at 13:25:12
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 You are free to attach the panels in any order you like. The factory choice was to put the deep bass panel in the middle in order to give it extra baffle and thus extend its bass. The greater mid-tweeter distance is a source of some imaging problems unless you get the time alignment just right. But the XO is calculated to provide tweeter and mid phase allignment. So if you want to swap the positions you would want to do two things.
1. you need to redo the XO to get the tweeter and mid aligned for their new relative distances. I would suggest placing them equidistant and picking either the 1st order orthogonal XO where Fc of the HP and LP filters are both at the 1khz (am I remembering that right?) as was done originally (just corrected for spacing), or go with the MMG approach and space the Fc so that when you flip the polarity of the midrange you get the phase at the Fxo (1khz again) aligned for the output of both drivers. Neolith has spreadsheets to calculate this for other models at other XO frequencies.
2. To substitute for the baffle effect you lost by placing the deep bass panel outboard, you need to either place it right by the wall, or add a "wing" about the same size as the panel (or bigger if you want slightly more extended bass).

You probably don't need to so anything about the mid/bass handover, it is all acoustic anyway.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 11, 2014 at 13:37:01
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks - my leaning was towards best midrange/tweeter integrity over bass extension - and yes I could tweak the XO no problem especially with the help of HolmImpulse.

But I will try it 'Jims' way first - just struck me as odd that the panel that had IM/Doppler treatment was not the one you would predominantly listen to on axis.

Ta


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 12, 2014 at 04:28:23
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 My modification of the Tympani IIIA was mainly to reduce the blurred imaging. The IIIA was not as bad as the ID, having a separate midrange driver. But having the tweeter and mid 16 inches from each other is certainly very far from optimum with a crossover frequency of 1.5 kHz (IIIA). I reduced the width of both mid and tweeter. Mid from 12" to 11" and tweeter from 8" to 4". Placed them close to each other on a new baffle. Made wonders to the imaging. With the ID it is not that easy as the low bass driver will have directional information all the way up to 1.1 kHz. The IIIA have their bass drivers operating below 100 Hz, in my case low pass filtered by 24 dB/octave. Maybe an experiment with running the ID 2½ or 3 way. By 2½ way, I mean letting the low bass roll off earlier in order not to disturb the imaging.

First of all, rewire them and see what you think of the sound!

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 12, 2014 at 05:49:24
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Roger - I am quite concerned about the mid being on the outside...

I will build them as three separate panels so I can move them all independantly to experiment.

I also have a pair of MGIII ribbons so I can also go 3 way that way - use the existing tweeter as midrange put the ribbon next to it...similar I guess to IVa although I know the midrange is different in the IV and also seemingly the bass panels too - not sure - but anyway thats further down the road.

I'll add connector plates to the back of each bass panel to start with and dump the poor interpanel connector system.
The main connector plates on the tweeters have enough connection points to run the bass connecting leads out from them...

I will weld up 12 'Maggie' feet....

Ta


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on January 12, 2014 at 10:47:55
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 The two bass drivers have different low frequecy behaviours. I am not really sure they differ that much at the other end of the operating range. I have measured the two bass drivers and the mid of my old Tympani IIIA. The basses goes all the way up to 4-5 kHz, the mid with its lighter wiring goes a bit higher and have a peak at 5 kHz. Off-axis response is really bad in the crossover region. First order filters may be causing it? The Tympani IV/IVa have their low bass drivers in the middle too. The later IVa had the basses disconnected from mid/tweeters. With the T-IVa you can place the low bass panel close to the side walls as they are rolled off sharply above 250 Hz. With the ID this may not be optimum but I have heard them that way.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 13, 2014 at 08:22:58
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 If you want to use your MGIIIA ribbon tweeters then you may want to consider getting a BG RD driver or a line of BG Neo drivers for midrange duties. Their top end does not compete that well with the ribbon, but their midrange is tremendous and you can take it down below 300hz and even to the 100s hz for the Neo10 or the RD75. I think the dispersion limitation on the Neo 10 limit usefulness with a maggie ribbon pairing since the 2khz range is already limited and the ribbon is a little stretched down there.
So the better match is the RD75 or RD50 and the Neo8 S version or original, which is the fastest among them. I went with the original Neo8 for the T-IV using 6 per side. The sensitivity allows even a SET for mid duties and the waterfall plots are still without much competition. You can XO at 5khz to relieve the ribbon from working at its low end. That also allows you to operate the mids 250-5000 hz and have no XO on the center of the midrange - and if you don't listen too loud you can drop the XO for the Neo8 mid array altogether and drive it raw - but the top will have to have the ribbon blended in at 10khz or so.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 14, 2014 at 04:55:11
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Satie - my current thinking is to keep withing the realms of Magnepan drivers.

WM
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 24, 2014 at 13:42:09
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Some Progress... this is the 'heath robinson' jig and the first panel - the wires are simply in place on a tack of spray - next I will sort a few alignment issues on some of the double runs which is easily done as teh wies are not held fast at this stage and double seal it....then three to go.
DCR is on the money at 8.1 ohms.

All refurb components supplied by Magnepan - lovely company to deal with.

WM


Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 24, 2014 at 13:43:05
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Another...
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 24, 2014 at 13:44:08
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Another...
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 24, 2014 at 13:45:16
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Final one...yep three panels to go.
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 25, 2014 at 08:57:16
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 Looks great!

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 26, 2014 at 10:08:23
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Roger,

Today I finished all 4 panels - they are all well aligned and straight and all measure 8.1 - 8.2 ohms.
Tomorrow I hunt down 3M Fastbond 30 NF - hopefully I can find some locally - Magnepan of course could not ship to me being winter time there.


Winders

 

Outstanding work!, posted on January 27, 2014 at 18:16:05
Barry
Audiophile

Posts: 1003
Location: PA
Joined: November 24, 1999
Contributor
  Since: January 18, 2009
 Wow. They should offer you a job at the factory. I still have a pair of these but it's been awhile since I dragged them out - I know I've got a tweeter out.

regards, Barry

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 27, 2014 at 22:15:50
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Looks terrific, great looking job at record speed. I guess the work was in the building of the jigs.

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 28, 2014 at 04:23:49
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks guys - yeah the jig took a few evenings to design and make and thats why all 4 panels were done so quickly - its so easy once you have a jig.
I did 3 panels in less than a day - on Sunday

The pics show the first panel that I did and yes the three that followed are even neater and better - so whilst the first panel is pretty decent - the last panel is 'perfect' - ce la vie.

Such is to be expected I guess - its something that gets better with practice.


Ta
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d Other options, posted on January 28, 2014 at 06:56:45
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 3M Fastbond 30-NF is as rare as hens teeth here in South Africa - project will have to go on hold for 6-8 weeks whilst I wait for Minnesota to thaw...


Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on January 28, 2014 at 07:19:11
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Barry I found my tweeter fault was simply a dry joint where the ally wires are soldered to the copper strips - 10 min repair on that - it could well be that yours is the same!

Cheers
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on May 31, 2014 at 02:32:28
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Well it has been a long wait with the bad winter that the US experienced - I had to wait far longer than I had hoped for, for the water based contact adhesive from Magnepan.

However a few weeks back I received the shipment and instad of showing step by step the completion progress I have jumped straight to the conclusion.

Round back we have brand new nameplates etc as well from Magnepan - thanks Shiela. They look brand new.

Awesome speakers that image well once you sort the angles of the respective panels to snap the image into focus and the bass well....amazing.

What sets these apart from other maggies IMO is little to no upper frequency modulation/doppler effects with heavy bass recordings.
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on May 31, 2014 at 10:11:38
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Did you place them for time alignment (equal distances)?

Looking good. better than new - no 70s sofa fabric wannabe.

You really should get a ribbon or narrow ESL to finish the top octave.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 1, 2014 at 02:09:08
JLindborg
Audiophile

Posts: 1037
Location: Uppsala
Joined: April 26, 2010
 Really nice!

Yes, having the midrange separate from the bass membrane is very important if You care at all about intermodulation distortion.

Really nice work!!!

Cheers!


The one who succeeded was the one who didn't know it was impossible.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 1, 2014 at 10:58:40
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Guys...

Satie what do you mean by equal distances - thats mighty hard to do short of making them a concave patterned layout - which I believe is not a good idea?

Ta


Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 1, 2014 at 12:09:57
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Yes, the concave shape is the result. But (A) it has little sonic downside compared to the benefit of time alignment of the pass bands - particularly for imaging. (B) You can just keep the bass panels in a face forward or aimed at each ear (Magnepans suggested setup) configuration and time align the tweeter (mid and tweeter in my case of the T IV/Neo8) to the acoustic center of the two bass panels (which is what I am doing now.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 2, 2014 at 10:27:47
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Hello Satie - well I just tried that config and yep its the best so far - sharpens up the central image even more to a point of palpability and moreover produces a wider soundstage that extends beyond the speaker outer boundaries - much like I was getting with my 1.5s - except with the Tympanis there is no comparison they simply leave the 1.5s far behind.

In the Tympani User Manual I have, this config is not even hinted at, and of course from a wavepoint source propogation concept/theories it has to be the best.

Thanks!

WM
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 2, 2014 at 11:02:15
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 Anytime...

Which config is it that you tried

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 2, 2014 at 11:04:36
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 I set them up with equal paths from each panel to the listening seat - each speaker is now a concave shape beamed onto the listening hot spot - awesome.

WM
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 3, 2014 at 03:44:18
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012



Poor pic but this is how they are currently - eventually I will play down the length of the room just making up some longer speaker cables.

WM
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 3, 2014 at 08:43:20
Norman M



After 20 plus odd years of putzing around positioning my Tympanis that is very much like the arrangement I settled upon.



 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 3, 2014 at 08:56:27
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks Norman - yes its the best so far - imaging is spot on and soundstage deep and wide.

I see you have the Tympanis with the ribbon tweeters as well - nice!

What is strange is this positioning is not mentioned at all in the user manual yet from an audio physics point of view makes the most sense and the sound quality confirms it.

I am having strips of Oak trim made up to finish them - but only to be attached to the two outer edges.
Whilst the C's and D's did not have wood trim standard from the factory I feel they need finishing somehow.

Love them!

WM
Winders

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 3, 2014 at 15:18:54
Satie
Audiophile

Posts: 5426
Joined: July 6, 2002
 I think their use of spaced crossover is the source of them avoiding this as a recommendation. Supposedly it should have been better to align the drivers in the time domain so that they give a flat crossover transition and be in phase there. The timing issue is just way too big for the other things to matter as much.

I redesigned the XO to work best with this equidistant time alignment. Gaussian bumps be damned. I would rather have the little FR anomaly than give up timing.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 4, 2014 at 02:39:27
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 The top and bottom of the drivers are also out of time alignment. I do not think it is much of a problem at lower frequencies, maybe in the midrange. The ribbon tweeter is almost all directional vertically in its range.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on June 4, 2014 at 09:08:48
Winders
Audiophile

Posts: 51
Joined: March 2, 2012
 Thanks guys,

I have to say I am now 100% happy with them - considering the money spent the sound quality in all aspects (imaging presence detail soundstage etc) is truly amazing and yes like anything in audio they have some weaknesses but musically enjoyable and non fatiguing natural sort of sound and seemingly a great match with my ARC SP8/ARC D115mkII - cant ask for much more.

WM
Winders

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on July 6, 2015 at 01:58:52
andrebfantunes
Audiophile

Posts: 4
Joined: July 6, 2015
 Based on this schematic isn't the total impedance 2ohm?

Which is extremely low. Would it be possible to rewire the cross over to 8ohm?

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on July 6, 2015 at 04:49:22
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 No, the impedance is 4 ohm for the two basses in parallel. Tweeters are more like 4.7 ohm.

 

RE: Outstanding work!, posted on July 6, 2015 at 05:53:52
computerman
Audiophile

Posts: 491
Location: Northeast
Joined: August 31, 2011
 This post quickly caught my eye as I own some factory rebuilt T 1-D's and some "Frankenpans" which are also factory custom built IIIa's. I love what you have done with the rebuild. That is an awesome job. Having originally built the Frankenpans, with a good friend and rebuilt my IIIa's I know what skill it takes to get the job done. After moving, I decided to send mine back to the factory and was lucky enough to get Sheila to use some foil from the 20.7's for the mids. She is a great lady and I have a lot of respect for her.

See my post here http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=mug&m=216892

When I see this kind of work it gives me a lot of encouragement. Great job!

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on July 6, 2015 at 07:53:46
andrebfantunes
Audiophile

Posts: 4
Joined: July 6, 2015
 Doesn't that make a total impedance of 2ohm?

 

RE: Magnepan Tympani 1d, posted on July 6, 2015 at 09:25:53
Roger Gustavsson
Audiophile

Posts: 2058
Location: Huskvarna
Joined: February 12, 2010
 No, because there is a crossover spliting the signal to bass and tweeter. Bass is 4 ohm + the series resistance of the coil. Tweeter is 4.7 ohm. Maybe the overall impedance is 4.5-4.7 minimum with a peak around the crossover frequency (1.1 kHz). It is an easy load but the efficency is low.

 

Magnepan Tympany, posted on September 22, 2016 at 18:27:40
rsyouman
Audiophile

Posts: 40
Location: chicago
Joined: January 8, 2004
 Hi Winder
Could you please email me?
Need to talk to you about your Tympany project.
Thanks
Bob

 

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