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The Terminator

96.235.185.3
Posted on February 15, 2015 at 05:11:28
Dave Garretson
Audiophile

Posts: 2448
Joined: June 14, 2005






To Mitch2's point in thread below, terminations matter and good ones may require more time to do right than some commercial manufacturers will allow. I particularly like compression fit "solderless" XLR connections. Silver wire is best for this, as unlike copper oxidation, silver oxide conducts and doesn't degrade the joint. I apply just enough solder to secure the connection at the entry point into the plug. This job takes an illuminated magnifier. The bulk wire is Connex/DH- Labs BL-Ag.

I recently did an extended shoot-out between these $125 DIY cables and 25th Anniversary PAD ICs. I preferred the BL-Ag.


 

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RE: The Terminator, posted on February 15, 2015 at 05:16:45
Dave Garretson
Audiophile

Posts: 2448
Joined: June 14, 2005







Stripped and folded wire that spring loads the Neutrik socket.

 

RE: The Terminator, posted on February 15, 2015 at 06:48:49
fantja
Audiophile

Posts: 15524
Location: Alabama
Joined: September 11, 2010
 Great pics! Dave.

 

RE: The Terminator, posted on February 15, 2015 at 08:23:59
mitch2
Audiophile

Posts: 1521
Location: Great Lakes
Joined: August 28, 2001
 As fantja says below, great pictures! I have used that cable you show and it not only sounds great but is also a bargain for good quality solid silver in teflon.
My jury is still out on set-screw type crimped connections for ICs.
Crimp/clamp type connections work for PCs, but the force used is much greater than for set-screw type IC connections.
I have used them on several types of Furutech rca connectors and they have performed great, but I wonder if the connection will loosen over time.
Currently my connectors are all balanced (XLR type) and I prefer the Furutech FP-601/602 connectors, which must be soldered. I have had good luck with them too, and have stuck with my standby Cardas quad eutectic solder. Yes, I know, it contains lead, but it is soooo easy to work with and leaves such a nice looking and consistent solder joint. Plus, tinning the ends before soldering offers some protection to corrosion. I use a short piece of small diameter heat shrink to cover any remaining exposed copper.
For speaker cables, I prefer crimping them using my hydraulic crimping tool, which provides greater crimping pressures than even ratcheting type tools.

 

RE: The Terminator, posted on February 15, 2015 at 08:49:50
Dave Garretson
Audiophile

Posts: 2448
Joined: June 14, 2005
 On this go-round with the BL-Ag IC, I first terminated using Wondersolder, then a fresh XLR with Ag-Cu solder from Chinese seller Vt4c, and finally a fresh XLR with the minimal amount of Ag-Cu solder necessary to mechanically secure the silver wire while allowing unmediated contact between the wire and the gold plated Neutrik socket. Either method using Ag-Cu solder surpasses Wondersolder-- noticeably cleaner sounding. The third method sounds best.

I've considered more expensive XLRs like Furutech. However doing things right(at least conceptually so) would also mean replacing Neutrik chassis connectors all down the line. That's a bit daunting.

 

RE: The Terminator, posted on February 15, 2015 at 12:24:30
Ric Schultz
Manufacturer

Posts: 844
Joined: August 7, 2000
 Dave,
Great post. Always looking for better parts/solder. There are two different AG-CU solders on his site. One is sold by the roll and the other by the foot. They are different brands. Which one do you use?

Also, there have been at least 7 different Wonder Solders through out the years. The latest and best sounding is the Signature with lead. Which Wonder do you have?

 

Solders, posted on February 15, 2015 at 13:24:45
Dave Garretson
Audiophile

Posts: 2448
Joined: June 14, 2005
 Hello Rick,

The Ag-Cu is a roll labeled RS Stock No. 436-4926 (.5mm) Made in Malaysia, with a contact address of Kelsey House, Hertfordshire, UK, tel. 01442 233233.

The roll of Wonder Solder is labelled Sig Ultraclear.

 

RE: Solders, posted on February 16, 2015 at 17:56:31
Ric Schultz
Manufacturer

Posts: 844
Joined: August 7, 2000
 Thanks for the info. I will get a roll and also want to try the super expensive Mundorf Supreme solder......if it is superior I could use it for the direct signal path and use lesser solders for the power supply and grounds. Always new stuff to try! The game never ends.

 

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