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with a Creative Soundblaster Live external USB sound card. This is called doing it on the cheap. I don't plan on burning CDs yet. Just recording to the laptop's 120 GB hard drive. I can do burn however, because the Toshiba has a DVD/R drive.
Looks like a good job for my backup turntable. Any hints?
Henry
Follow Ups:
See link below.By far the best automatic or semi-automatic click repair tool I've ever used, and cheap.
bring bac k dynamic range
Another vote for Audacity. Good and FREE. Plenty of editing options and capable of up to 24/192 recording resolution. And did I say it is FREE ?In conjunction with a stand alone M Audio Audiophile USB.
I record directly to my HD, edit (lightly), split tracks etc then burn 2 discs- 1 as an archive copy and 1 to use.
Once you get the hand of it, the process is quite easy. Kind of like making a mix tape in the old days.
Best,
Although it's a more expensive option, has anyone tried one of those high-tech super recorders, like the Korg MR-1000. It uses MIC inputs (since it is a recorder), which I suspect could be converted to match an MC cart input. It would save vinyl collections in DSD for posterity.I'm thinking about it...
One could then downsample to a DVD disk for now, pending better technology.
Todd Kreiger on General is really into it. Here's his latest posting. You may wish to Search backwards for more stuff by him. I'm fairly computer literate, but this stuff can get quite deep quite fast.I do direct to an HHB burner. That's "OK" but takes some hand-eye coordination. I still manage to generate a lot of coasters. The HHBs are "OK" (rebadged Pioneers) but could sure use some modding. Dinky little stock Littelfuse power supply, and garbage RCAs. Some chassis damping w/ E-A-R SD125 plus a sheet of ERS paper on the top lid improves things a bit.
Hindsight reveals that I really miss a HD on the burner. This would allow easy generation of comp discs and doing multiple burns. That requirement points to either a Tascam or the Alesis. If I would go the Alesis route, I'd go for the one modded by BPT; the one that Mikey uses.
I have a huge record collection and I decided to make CDRs of a lot of the better records I own. I tried a Soundblaster card associated with software I purchased at Comp USA called Magix Music (about $25). It didn't work very well. Then I bought a M-Audio preamp/digital interface at my local guitar center (about $200). Combining the 2 works great. One can buy CDRs in bulk pretty cheap, if on sale maybe 20 cents each. If I screw up one recording session it's no big loss. I have also copied CDs that I own to my computer hardrive using the Magix software, then burned new CDRs. The difference in quality between the original & the copy is noticeable but really the copy is very close to the original.
Henry
Short answer, yes. Audacity has it's own internal format which works well, but always save it (export it) to at least one lossless format such as .wav. There are others, such as .flac.Then you can also write it out as mp3 or ogg as well, of course, but these are lossy, so not the way to store the original.
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FLAC is good.you will find that storage space is your big constraint if recording at 24/88. 120GB is not all that much when it comes down to it.
the good news is that 1 TB drives are getting cheaper.
If I like what I hear, I'll go for a larger external drive.
Henry
Yes, drives getter cheaper is always good news. I have half a terabyte in my MythTV box, and 300 odd megabytes in my desktop, and I still want more these days :-)
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2 x 1TB drives to store lossless music files. they sound far superior to CD and allow one to listen to their music in new ways...and each one is a backup for the other.
I've used many Soundblaster models, although not yours (mostly internal cards), and the better ones did a very good job, despite many naysayers at the beginning. One of their best was a small design the bought from Ensoniq (or did they buy Ensoniq, the company?). I still use it.
with the creative card, too.
Henry
...installed in my purpose built, ATX form factor, windows based tower.I threw down actual money to buy Adobe Audition after Adobe bought out Cool Edit (the bastards). Audition is *WAY* more program than is actually needed to edit a vinyl rip but once you get past the learning curve it is really flexible and the Hi-Rez rips sound incredible.
You are on the right track.
There's a program called CD Wave Editor that has a built in recorder and makes it easier than any other software to split tracks quickly after recording an album or side. It was designed exactly for this purpose by a guy who was tired of using a full-blown editor for track splitting and the time it took. It's simple, doesn't take long at all to get the hang of and breeze through this job. I keep an older version here http://www.freefilehosting.net/download/MTg0Nzg4 which lacks a built in converter for lossless and mp3, but makes better sounding recordings to my ear for some reason. Your milage may vary... Control the recording level using the input level control for the Soundblaster.In my experience, recording 24/96 and down-converting to 16/44.1 for CD with anything but the best (and most expensive) pro software will actually sound worse than just recording at 16/44.1. Try it and see... Your milage may vary...
...record at 24/88. if one is eventually converting the files to CD (or any other 44kHz format), the files seem to turn out better when working from an 88kHz source vs 96kHz source.if conversion is never in your future, go for the highest resolution. when i've tested 24/88 vs 24/96, i've not heard a difference. (i did some tests using vinyl recorded from my own system and played back via the same method.)
That is true. Recording at 88.2 does seem to sound better when down-converted to 44.1I record to DVD and thread a video file so it will play in 24/96 on my DVD player when I burn to media.
Most of the time I just play the hi-rez files from my HD tho.
--
Al G
Born To Tinker!
"thread a video file."I would like to burn 24/48 from my Edirol to disk, but haven't found a way.
If I could put them on a DVD, that would be cool.
...sound much better than the same files played back from CD/DVD.i agree--once the files are on the HD it makes little sense to move them back to disc.
"i agree--once the files are on the HD it makes little sense to move them back to disc"...Unless you want to store your music in the most popular format that's easy to carry around and will play anywhere...
yeah... you can take your lossless files with you, too. i see what you mean!
Henry
it is because 88.2 is an even multiple of 44.1, whereas to down-convert from 96 to 44 there is more processing involved and not an even relationship between samples.
That makes sense...Converting 24/96 to 16/44.1 really sounded awful compared to a plain old 16/44.1 recording.
24/96 -> 16/44 CAN'T sound good... it's just that it is a touch harder to get it to sound good vs. 24/88 -> 16/44.
Not even sure if CD wave editor can do 24/96 now that I think about it...You could use the Creative Recorder that came with you card and / or Audacity, a freeware recorder / editor. Splitting tracks is a little trickier and more time consuming in Audacity though.
Thanks for the info on the CD Wave Editor. I just downloaded and installed it.
Henry
There's no guarantee that future whatever-disc-players will support
DVD-A. Not so with DVD-V.There are tools that allow writing audio to DVD-V discs.
bring bac k dynamic range
No problem...Thank you for your posts on the Jolida JD-9. Got it a few days ago and I'm enjoying it immensely!
The DVD-A sounds like a great idea. Haven't been down that path yet myself...
Henry
Hi Henry I have been looking into this myself recently, I read in a couple of places that recording to a cd first and then putting that onto your hardrive is a pretty good way to go. After that you would use one of the many programs available to clean up clicks and pops.
Here one of the links where I got alot of info from.
http://www.delback.co.uk/lp-cdr.htm
I have a standalone CD Recorder and record my LP's to that. I then take the resultant CD and record it to a library on my hard drive using Roxio Easy CD Creator Deluxe all in *.wav format. I then make compilation DVD's of the songs I want in PCM format.I get generally between 4 to 4 half hours of uncompressed music per DVD.
Then software could be used to clean it up for burning to CD.
Henry
Henry I don't know what will work best, as said earlier I just began looking into this myself. In my opinion and for me the recording to the cd first will be easiest, I have a stand alone cd recorder, so I am going to try it that way first.
Definitely...His method is better for people with stand-alone CD recorders and modest sound cards on their computers. The M-Audio Audiophile cards have great sound for music and great D/A converters for recording. Recommended if you get into transferring more vinyl or tape to digital.
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