|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
50.174.133.220
Dust cover springs need some adjustment, but this thing is the cleanest I've ever seen.
Came with the original box (much of the inner packing is missing), as well as an extra arm board and the box for the EPA-100. Heading out now for some batteries for my dig scale.
I'm only in town for 2 days, then vacation, so I won't get this fully dialed in until I get home.
Follow Ups:
A great table and a legendary arm.
Enjoy !
dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
The looks of those tone arms always scare me.
But back in the day they had to make thing look more, ah, hi teac, cooler, smokier; what ever.
Just always seemed to me there was a lot that over engineering for looks.
?
It is a very nice clean looking table .
That looks very sweet. And with the EPA100 tonearm! Great score. Perhaps this leads to encouragement for the rest of us that have grown accustomed to seeing what this goes for online in places like A'Gon, Ebay and other points of Vintage Audio commerce.
Whatever the price, that's a nice score on a great turntable.
-Steve
Congrats Pete on this find.
Since you mentioned the SP-15 I assume you know the usual cautions to replace the electrolytics before any fail and take out something else which may not have an available replacement.
Lots of hours of enjoyment ahead. ;^)
"The piano ain't got no wrong notes." Thelonious Monk
I agree with replacing the electrolytes, but do not do it without having a good scope handy. The timing adjustments maybe waaay off once you removed and replaced the caps in the table itself. Replacing the caps in the PSU has no effect on timing. Follow the timing adjustment described in the service manual to a T. and make sure you get the timing as close to the center of the range provided as you can. Before you connect the PSU to the table after replacing the caps check the voltages for value and also for noise.
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
but any vintage direct-drive turntable that has been sitting around for decades is likely to need calibration anyway. So, that should be part of the routine when one wants to bring such a turntable back to its maximum capabilities, whether one replaces the electrolytics in the motor control circuit or not. And of course, one SHOULD replace those electrolytics prior to re-calibration since the effort and expense of calibration would eventually be wasted when those old capacitors do start to fail, which is inevitable. This brings us to the fact that there is a dearth of technicians who are truly capable of calibrating a DD. Bill Thalmann in Virginia and JP Jones in NYC are two guys who know what they are doing.Incidentally, JP has successfully recreated the single IC that is essential to the proper operation of an SP10 Mk2 or Mk3, on a PCB no larger than the original IC and with better than original performance. For a few hundred dollars, he will install his chip and calibrate the unit. Thus there is now no such thing as an irreparable Mk2 or Mk3, except for physically damaged ones.
Edits: 10/19/16
why not go through the entire recommended calibration procedure after replacing the caps?
No sense not optimizing performance at that point.
"The piano ain't got no wrong notes." Thelonious Monk
the timing may stay the same, if you replace the caps in the base you will have to readjust for sure. I am not saying that you should not adjust in any case. The warning is don't even try to replace the caps in the table unless you have a scope, you could get away with replacing the PSU caps and not mess things up...
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
Why would anyone not replace the electrolytic caps in the motor unit at the same time? I assume they would be the ones most likely to damage unavailable ICs with their failure, while that may not be the case in the power controller unit.
"The piano ain't got no wrong notes." Thelonious Monk
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
No, I am going on my love of my Sp-15. I never had the opportunity to see an Sl-1000 in person, this was lingering on CL for a few weeks, so I made him an offer. It was well cared for by its condition, and sounded good right out the gate. I tried switching head-shells to use my Denon 103r but am getting a hum. Not sure about that, as the dynavector karat and head-shell that came with it, doesn't have the hum, but I don't know the age or true condition of it, so I'll have to do some swaps etc to find out what's up.
P
some cartridges i have will do more humming then others. I have some that are dead quiet, the loudest hum is from the London. try various grounding configs... the power supply does not have a ground lug i added one. sometimes grounding everything to that makes the hum disappear. sometimes it makes it worse. I hate chasing hum.
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
Wall warted tube box that has always bugged the shit out of me.
p
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: