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Hi, I'm slowing building a vintage setup and trying to make a wise decision on turntables. I've spotted a couple on craigslist recently: The Dual 1019 $300 mint and Pioneer PL-530 $325 Both seem to have good reputations but I've read the Duals require lots of maintenance and replacement parts can be expensive. I currently use a Marantz 2230 and listen to jazz, r'n'b, 70s rock, funk, etc. I'm a bass player so I need some clear tight bass. Thanks for your help!
Follow Ups:
One thing to remember is the 1019 has a 10" platter. The record overhangs the platter by an inch. I could not get over that and gave mine away.....
Same thing here. The whole deck was too cramped for me and sold mine. Missed the peppy sound after I forgot how the cramped deck w/ 10" platter bothered me. Bought another one and it all came back, so I sold it too. I'll not be seduced by it again.
The Dual idler-wheel decks CAN require a lot of maintenance, chiefly because of the complex auto-return/changer mechanism, which I regard as completely useless. Right now, I'm using a Dual 1229 in my archiving rig, so I speak from experience.
There are some people who swear that an idler wheel tightens the sound, or increases it's "impact". Complete, magical-thinking BS, from those who equate Michael Fremer with B.B Bauer, or who believe every, single thing they read in 'The Absolute Sound'.
The idler wheel just pushes the platter. It can actually have a NEGATIVE effect on the sound if it has a flat spot or if it's gotten hard from age.
What makes a Dual turntable sound good is the tonearm with the decoupled counterweight. Very few people seem to know that. The tonearm was Dual's little magic wand.
BUT, if your aim is to minimize headaches, I'd go with the Pioneer turntable.
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"Use adjectives instead of numbers, and you'll never be wrong again." ~ The Wizard of Audio Oz
Please lend me some of your magical thoughts so I can think vintage is wonderful, too.
I beg to differ. If you find an old 1019 that has been sitting for years you will find a mechanism caked with hardened grease and hardly working. Also an idler wheel that has probably hardened. Get past these hurdles and you'll find a very robust table built for the long haul. One caution....be careful of the headshell on the 1019 tonearm. It's proprietary and rare.
I found and rebuilt one about 7 years ago and have enjoyed many relatively trouble free hours on it. I really need to learn to leave well enough alone sometimes. It inspired me to take a Rek-o-Kut B12h and transform it into a transcription table this past summer.
Gonzo,
You could check out this thread. It's about a mile long, but there's lots of very good information.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146608
And, specifically, you could check out Beachcomber's recent adventures with his ROK.
Idlers aren't perfect or even trouble free, but I've restored four or five of them over the last few years and find I just like them better than other drive systems. The usual caveat that YMMV definitely applies.
Regardless, good luck with your project.
Doug
did with your ROK? I have one sitting around and I am looking for inspiration. Interestingly, my first turnable was the 1019 that I bought new in 1964, I still have it but it needs clean, lube, etc. Norm
I had the bearing and platter machined to tighten the tolerance, this is what raises the performance. It's the biggest source of rumble on these tables and it can be pronounced. I never really tried it before machining but it is now inaudible. Do a search for Tubesforever and his posts on it, that is where I got my inspiration.
Balancing and dampening the platter contributes to smooth running and no ringing.
I built a nice solid plinth to mount everything on. This beefs up and solidifies the table. A couple pieces of aluminum bar stock I had were used to take the weight under the top plate which can flex.
My idler is in good shape, pliable, but I did bevel the square corners slightly on the contact area.
I found a Jelco arm that is modified to fit the original spindle to pivot distance (do a search) so I didn't need to butcher my table. I also made provision to add a second arm. I would like to get a 10 or 12" unipivot for it when I come across one I like. Right now a Hadcock GH242 is in my sights.
I have the Pabst motor in mine and will look into upgrading the power supply to it.
Edits: 11/28/15
when finances allow. I bet it sounds great. Norm
I would pick the Dual, too.
There aren't a lot of people who feel like rebuilding old turntables. They just want to use them. I'm one of those people. Besides, finding parts and lubes for old Duals is a huge pain. I had to strip another turntable for parts for my Dual 1229. I was lucky I could do that.The guy who supplied my lubes went out of business. Terrific.
If you don't feel like doing the repair work yourself, your options are limited to the services of a very few, uncertified repairmen. I got my Dual 1229 overhauled in St. Thomas, Ontario. It was a time-consuming and expensive ordeal.
Under the circumstances, I'd definitely recommend the Pioneer turntable.
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"Use adjectives instead of numbers, and you'll never be wrong again." ~ The Wizard of Audio Oz
Please lend me some of your magical thoughts so I can think vintage is wonderful, too.
Edits: 11/27/15
Thats the problem I have a few dual TTs that I would love to kick back and listen to but I dont have the ability to repair them to proper use, so until I find someone in the area who loves them dual TTs and working on them I am going to wait I will bump into someone at a record show who is into them and make a deal. I am not going to ruin them by wanting to listen to there sound.
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