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Mike Samra recommended Simpson multimeter. On the web page cited there are so many different models. Any suggestions which is a good basic meter? Thanks. Norm
Follow Ups:
I have a question - I have two older 260's and this thread prompted me to clean them up and test them out. The newer of the two has a circuit breaker and takes more modern test leads. When I opened it I saw the expected D cell but also tucked around the corner was a 15v battery. While the D cell tested fresh, the 15v battery was down to 0.9v. What is the purpose of this guy? FYI, cost $22 to replace (ouch).
If I had only one meter it would be a Fluke Digital Multimeter (DMM). I actually own two of them. No longer own any analog meters but have used Simpson 260 series, Triplett, and Radio Shack Micronta.New Simpsons are ridiculously priced IMHO. Buy a nice used one or possibly a new Triplett at a better price.
Amazon.com Pricing on VOMs:
Simpson 260-8 ($279)
Simpson 260-8P ($343)
Triplett 3018 ($126)
Triplett 3022 ($147)
Triplett 3067 ($147)Simpson is located northwest of Minocqua, Wisconsin, 1 year warranty, approx $85 repair fee, $55 calibration fee, depending on specific model.
Triplett located in New England, 3 year warranty 1-800 customer support number. Half the price of Simpson, 3x the warranty, and still an excellent meter.
Fluke 115 True RMS DMM. About $135 +/- depending on source.
Visit Amazon.com and search on Simpson 260-8 or Simpson 260-8P or Triplett 3022, etc. You'll no doubt find slightly cheaper pricing by scouring the internet. Good luck!
Edits: 09/29/16 09/29/16
Do you find that the 0.6 amp range limit on the triplett 3022 is a problem for you> At least that's how I read the specs on it. Thanks Norm
If the Triplett were my only meter I would find its 600mA max DC current range to be limiting. My Fluke has a 10A range which pretty much covers most of what I need.
Same sort of thing as a Simpson but my Triplett has the carry case making it each to put somewhere.
A friend gave me a Simpson 260-8P that had a battery acid issued. Cleaned it up, pulled one small board and got the resistors cleaned and all is good with the meter. One issue is the corroded contact for the battery. Turns out the 9V holder is an identical piece to the D-cell contact. I just had to fab a way for the 9V to stay in place. I also had to fab a battery compartment cover.
Because of familiarity I prefer the Triplett but I know the 8P is a safer meter with the protection. I don't know what I'm going to do with the Simpson, but it is there for when I need it. I use an autoranging digital most of the time. But there is a need to have both digital and analog when working on gear.
Is twofold first certain multimeters will measure more than just volts,ohms and current. A built in cap meter would be handy. A function gen too.
I love analog meters but a good digital has a segmented line that acts more like an analog meter along with the numeric readout so you get the more precise readings. Much easier for matching components.
The going rate for a good 260 is just too much though. No, way too much. That and the low ohms per volt and no megaohm scales make the DVM the better choice.
You'll get more meter for the money in digital by a good bit.
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
He wants an analog meter that is more old school and I can't say I blame him.It is so much easy to adjust for a peak or a dip with an analog meter as opposed to a digital meter.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Used to have a nice hybrid for $25. Digital readout and an analog meter. Didn't know he already had a Fluke.
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
If the main attraction of an analog meter these days is to adjust for peaks or dips, there are several Chinese ones available in the $20 range.
No need for a $200 - $400 Simpson or $100 - $200 Triplett, IMHO. I'd spend that kind of money on a good Fluk DMM instead and keep a couple cheapie analog VOMs around for 'peaking an dipping' ;-)
Get the right tool for the right job. I say get one of each. But for matching parts, bias, etc... that DMM sure is easy to use. Get a damn good Fluke and then find a analog meter. They pop up at flee markets ALL the time!!!!
Amen.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
They are all similar, but, unsurprisingly, the later models add more and more modern features.
A couple of things to note: the very early models had soldered-in batteries and fuses - not quite sure where these both changed, but certainly by the -6 models and up. Later models used a slightly smaller battery complement.
Also, not quite sure where it came in, but a continuity tone (buzzer or beep) was added at some point. This might be handy for some things (ID'ing connector pin-outs comes to mind, among others).
As was noted in another post, some of the later models went away from banana plugs to the shielded or inverted connector type plug. If you want to be able to mix and match your probes between your 260 and a modern DMM, this is likely a useful feature.
I have a -8 and a -6
I prefer the new one because it's in better condition and has more useful scales, but they're very similar.After frying a DMM with a voltage spike, I tend to save the DMM for measuring capacitors and resistors, and frequency, and use the 260 for basic troubleshooting. Just keep in mind it's not a VTVM, so meter loading will affect voltage readings in some circuits which have a high source impedance.
I like my 260's a lot. I would suggest that when you start using it, you may find it a bit awkward if you're accustomed to a DMM. Don't quit just then but persist and keep using it until it becomes second nature. Now that I am used to it the 260 I certainly prefer it to my digital meters.
Edits: 09/28/16
The digital meters are easier to deal with. Especially when you are trying to bias.
Get a good Fluke DMM. You can pick up a Simpson pretty cheap almost anywhere. Like a flee market.
I always wondered what happened to mine?????? Don't miss it but where did it go?
An analog meter just seems way appropriate for guys interested in vintage gear. I have an idea..get one of each!
An RS meter from the 80s isn't going to cost an arm and a leg as these things go...and I don't completely trust numbers that are digital.:-)I want to be able to compare the two. Besides, you can take readings on both and maybe figure out why the digital meter is giving funny results.
That's my first meter, purchased and assembled in 1975. Still have it, likely works fine if the switches are cleaned.
The drawback for tube work is that its input resistance is 50K ohm/volt, the same I believe as the Simpson 260. This makes it hard to obtain accurate bias voltage readings at the high-resistance node of a grid, unless you do some on-the-fly extrapolation. The internal meter resistance forms a voltage divider with the grid resistor.
A DMM typically has a 10 meg input R. Nostalgia aside, easier to work with.
Any of the 260-6 or 260-7 are good meters.
They are mostly alike, but in the 260-7, the connector gender on the leads is reversed. That was to protect you from getting shocked by a lead with an exposed male plug which could be live.
If it has M in the model #, it has a mirror scale which aids in reducing errors reading it. If it has a P in the number, it had overload protection with the pop-up circuit breaker. I've never owned a P model.
I also have an older 260-4. It's pretty much the same as well, but has a 5kV scale which is useful with my ham gear.
The early models (including the 260-4)use a six AA batteries for R X 10K, and a D Cell for R X 1 and R X 100. Later ones (260-6 and 260-7) use 9V for R X 10K and a D Cell for R 1 and R X 100.
I inherited a Simpson 260, from my Dad. It worked well. Sold it to a friend many, many moons ago.
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