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In Reply to: RE: DIY interconnect with integrated passive filtering? posted by KanedaK on January 13, 2017 at 08:51:30
I hear you. Another thing in the chain can be yuck. Why do you need the attenuation? The values in the filter depend on the input mpdance of the amp. Try a good mil spec 5% carbon resistor. I find them less strident than metal film and PRP. I magine you kbow he formula but I linked it. Report back when done.
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
Follow Ups:
I need the atténuation due to a major difference in sensitivity between the low-pass amplifier and the high-pass amplifier. The latter has its own input volume control for fine-tuning.
Let's say I want attenuation AND low-pass filter in the same interconnect; i would then put the filter in the interconnects that are at the preamps out, and the attenuation in the plugs that are in the power amps input, that would be the "correct" way to do it, right?
Hey There Awe-D!Glad you're healing up and getting better. Very good to hear. All the best to you and yours.
Off-topic question regarding the implementation of Al Sekela's great AC filter tweak.
You said the PRPs sound 'strident'. Yet I saw in your previously posted instructions/photos that you used the 1/2W PRPs in the AC filters you made, as did Al, when he was alive.
Many years ago, at the personal urging of Al Sekela, I followed the exact recipe that Al and you offer, using the prescribed value Wimas and 1/2 W PRPs. I found the filters to sound just a touch....'strident'. Effective in cleaning up AC noise? Yes! Very much so. But just a tad strident in my system. (Thus, I ultimately opted for Alan Maher's Power Enhancer V/VI series, which used no resistors, and employed many more capacitors, all Vishay, btw.)
Recently, though, I returned to thinking I want to go back and try yours/Al's design again, but with better sounding resistors. I believe Al's design imparts more stability with the resistors in there, and take much less time to 'dial in' (Maher's devices take around 2 or 3 weeks to stabilize and dial in, sounding pretty horrid until then.)
Would you now recommend another type of resistor, and if so, what type/value/rating?
Or would you simply move up to the 1 watt size PRPs (which I have read is less prone to the stridency of the 1/2W and the 1/4W PRPs, and also sounds more weighty and 3D)?
I was going to remove the 1/2W PRPs and go with the 1W PRPs, but figured I'd ask you your opinion before doing so. Your new comment herein prompted me to finally write and ask. (Thanks!)
Any guidance is appreciated. TIA!
Cheers,
WS
Edits: 01/14/17
Al liked the PRPs, but I always went for the flameproof resistors. Sounded great in my system, which admittedly was nowhere near as resolving as his.
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