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I Bought three boxes of a 100 6P3SE tubes for 590usd incl including shipping.I bought them at different times and then I bought a box of 73 from a guy in Lithuania four years ago for 420usd including ship and I was glad to get them. Out of all 373 tubes,I'm down to about 205 left..I should have bought two more boxes before the price went up.Too many big mouths on here drove up the price by saying how good they were.
I found these in mom's attic in the garage when I went up there to change the light bulbs in the attic.It's great having your parents for neighbors sometimes..LOL.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Follow Ups:
To get brave enough to run these at .50 mv in my St 70, but that's the sweet spot for that amp. They also sound great in my Mk IIIs (KT 88 based amp).
Amazing little tubes, esp at the original price point.
"Too many big mouths on here drove up the price by saying how good they were."
Uh, Michael... Have you looked in the mirror today? :) :)
I still have my box of 100, purchased shortly after you first started talking them up. About 30 were gassy, but I sent them back to the Ukraine and the seller shipped back perfect replacements. Great tubes, I have yet to give them a really rigorous workout.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
If you have a way to run them the gassy tubes will be fine after a good run in. But don't use ANY of the 6P3S-Es unless you test them thoroughly, especially for grid current/gas.
Jim, I used a test amp for grading, roughly +400V on the anodes. As you say, a number of slightly gassy tubes were fine after running them in for 10 to 15 minutes. The ones I sent back were those in which quiescent current started out higher and never fell to an acceptable level.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Wow, that's surprising that they didn't come down. Thanks much for the clarification.
Just FYI I ran mine at 465 volts on the plate and screen and -50 on the grid which usually resulted in cathode currents of about 25 to about 50 ma. They ran for multiple hours...
Uh, Michael... Have you looked in the mirror today? :) :)
NAH not me..LOL Of course I was referring to myself.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Mike, what's ya gonna do with all those tubes?
What else,I'm going to stuff them in my daughter's old bedroom where I have tons of other stuff stored.LOL.I've been using them in my many 6L6 and EL34 based amps as well as selling a quad here and there.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Get a Cit. 5 and see if they will hold up. Maybe tweaking the "idle" current would be needed.
Eli D.
Aren't these tubes 19watt?
The 6П3C-E (6p3s-e) is supposed to be much like a 7581, unlike the 6П3C.
We must be careful about Russian types, as the suffixes are very significant. The 6П14П is, at best, a mediocre EL84 equivalent. OTOH the 6П14П-EB, AKA EL84M, is a quite nice and very tough 7189 equivalent.
Eli D.
I'd be inclined to consider the 6П3C-E to be much closer to 5881 than a 7581. A translated data sheet calls out anode dissipation rating @ 20.5W while the 7581 is 30W and the 7581A is 35 W. I'm sure the 6П3C-E ratings are conservative because they're based on a 5,000 hr nominal life. I've run them @ 25W on the anode and they don't red plate or show other signs of distress.
I'd be inclined to consider the 6П3C-E to be much closer to 5881 than a 7581
You are actually correct.The 6N3C-E is often sold as a 6L6gc,mainly because of its mil-spec ability to handle the 500v of the 6L6gc,even tho it dissipates roughly the same wattage as a 6L6GB or 5881.In other words,they do have a lower dissipation rate than a 6L6gc but,they can still handle the voltage and current of the 6L6gc.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Not only great sounding but long lasting! I got two quads from Jim in 2010 and have used the first quad for thousands of hours and they still test and sound new. The other quad has not been touched. Also picked up a box of 36 from a local guitar player a few years back for $100 Canadian (about $70 US). I think that should be a lifetime supply.
I too am loving the GL kt66 and intend to compare them to the 6P3S-E. But those are well over $200 US per quad. The 6P3S-E were $65 a quad fully tested from Jim and even cheaper untested by the box. That was a bargain that is unlikely to be equaled again in output tubes.
You certainly were one of the first buyers. I bought a few, not soon after you started, but gave them away after I heard the Gold Lion KT 66. They draw more heater current, but i also think the top end is better.
Maybe that's why the 6P3SE is the first tube I've found that I like in my VTA input board converted Dynaco ST-70. With the original Mullard EL-34 and reissue Gold Lion KT-77, the amp sounded too solid-state like for my tastes. The 6P3SE brought back some of the tube warmth and musicality I felt had gone missing after the conversion.
I bought my 6P3SE from Jim McShane based on Mr. Samra's frequent praise of them, and they did the trick for me in that particular amp. Now I wish I'd bought a few more sets before Jim ran out.
If you can get the Gold Lion KT66s in that amp it would be nice.
I built the VTA ST-70 and WOW. Just wonderful with any tube. But the GL 66's are special.
charles
That hasn't been my experience, in my system, but it would be nice if it were.
I stuffed my board when VTA was using Auricaps, so I did the same. I subsequently replaced some of the PRP metal film resistors with tantalums, but it didn't help.
I'll get the Auricaps out of there, and try the often recommended K40 caps before I buy any more tubes for an amp that may just not be to my liking.
I also found the VTA to be more in the modern voiced camp even with K40's etc and carbon film resistors etc. I eventually replaced it with a DIYTube board and was much happier. I guess you can't please 100% of the people 100% of the time.
That's good to know, thanks. I've considered the DIYTube Poseidon board for my Dynaco MK-III amps, but never took a hard look at their ST-70 input stage.
If there was an unlimited supply of good (i.e. non-gassy) 6P3S-Es around I'd be more likely to leave the VTA input stage in my ST-70, but Jim's out of them, and buying them from ebay at this point seems like a gamble.
Twist Samra's arm not quite to the point of falling off. ;> D His pile is a "lifetime" supply for more than 1 person.
FWIW, I favor the Triode Electronics replacement ST70 driver board populated with 2X EF86s and an ECC99. The OEM signal topology is retained, while in production and superior small signal types are employed.
Eli D.
The EF86 is a superb input tube for both SE and PP amps. I have a small stash of NOS Mullards put away for upcoming projects. :)
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Although I generally heed your advice closely, Eli, I stuck with a friendly request, so Mikey's appendages are intact. Hopefully my "I broke one of mine" plight will appeal to his altruistic side, and he'll open up his stash to sell a few.
I do remember reading that you liked the Triode Electronics boards, but had forgotten about them. I want to install a SDS power supply board in the same ST-70, and wrote Sheldon Stokes directly. He said he'd check to see if he had any made, but then never got back to me. I'll check and see what Triode Electronics has so say.
Thanks!
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