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I've been constructing all my preamp and amp chassis with 1ft (30cm) front to back. This does make some of the chassis rather wide. So I'm wondering about a deeper chassis. What I need to know from you guys' collective knowledge is how deep you can go before it stops fitting on typical shelves used to hold hi-fi equipment.What would you suggest as the IDEAL depth, and the MAXIMUM depth:
12" 30cm
13" 33cm
14" 36cm
15" 38cm
16" 40cm
17" 43cm
18" 46cmFrom the bit of research I've done, the typical depth of a hi-fi rack shelf is 50cm or 20". Allowing for cables coming out of the back of equipment this suggests a maximum of 40cm or 16". Some racks are 40cm deep, and typical shelves in homes would certainly be less than 50cm. Probably closer to 1ft or 30cm.
Edits: 10/10/16Follow Ups:
I don't think there's a "typical" shelf when it comes to consumer furniture. This became an issue for me too, some time back. I ended up building my own oak cabinet with adjustable shelves. The shelves are 22" deep and made from 1-1/2" thick plywood. They'll easily hold a couple 80 lb. mono blocks without sagging. All my future projects will be dimensioned narrow and deep whenever possible to take maximum advantage of this. Some of the amps I'm planning will probably be as deep as 18". Would someone else be able to put this gear on their shelves? I don't know.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
I looked at some typical IKEA shelf units - they're big in Europe so should be in a lot of homes.Depth of units:
28cm - several bookcases
36cm - 5
40cm - 3
45cm - 2
50cm - 3So assuming no cables come out of the back of units, it looks like most bookcases will take a chassis of 30cm (1ft) depth. A number of common TV stands are 35cm or 36cm (14") so that's the next most adaptable size. I didn't see anything deeper than 50cm (19.5"), so seems that's the cut-off point.
All my cables come vertically up out of the top plate - nothing on the back. You have the height with tube equipment anyway, so it's an effective use of space.
Edits: 10/11/16
Once you get into the third dimension space/time gets all funky. The further away the magnetics are from the signal the better.
As far as depth, most of my stuff hangs out over the back of my rack (that sounds horrible) just slide the rack out a few inches from the wall and use a deeeep chassis.
Yes, yes and yes!
Especially the third dimension aspect when you are trying to design something elegant(ish) that has easy working access, allows sufficient distance to minimise components interacting with each other, and has decent ventilation. I dislike highly restricted access to chassis-mounted components!
From memory, the 2-stage monoblocks I'm currently designing are 430W x 430D x 200H each.
Cheers,
91.
"Confusion of goals and perfection of means seems to characterise our age." Albert Einstein
I was considering a new project this morning. For me the bigger (pardon the pun) issue is height. I've got pretty good shelf clearance, but using tall tubes like the JJ300B limits by chassis height to about 2" (plus feet). I don't know if that's an issue for you, but might be. As for shelf depth, I can easily go to 12" maybe 13" and have plenty of room for cables.
Andy,
I do NOT know the answer you seek, but I wanted to suggest using a Golden Ratio size for the chassis overall, depth equal to 62% of the length. LOOKS best, overall !! Have fun, I am.
Jeff
I think there could be something in the Golden Ratio here. Something like 22cm wide and 35cm deep maybe. Wood sides complicate the issue, though....
I make my chassis out of 14 gauge steel, sometimes even 12 AWG, and have the units folded at the steel shop, and the corners welded locally by a welder friend, and then ground smooth. Better shielding, and its more professional-looking to me Andy. I like to powder coat the chassis.
Have FUN, I AM !!
Jeff
I thought it was .618.
the difference of .620 and .618 must be on par with an " inch of bad wire"
Ones visual, the later is aural.
Jeff
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