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In Reply to: RE: Anyone have a fave cnc shop for amp top plates? (nt) posted by Triode_Kingdom on October 07, 2016 at 11:07:20
I cut my own plates but send them to a local metal finishing shop here and in 2 other smallish towns I've lived in. First time around I tell them I just have this one or sometimes two pieces as a hobby and would they put it in with their regular black anodize production run. Never been turned down and never paid more than $20 a plate.
If you're using Front Panel have them just do the cutting then anodize locally. Sometimes you just have to cut after anodizing; a Permanent Marker blackens the rim just fine.
I get pretty good results with a cheapo Harbor Freight drill press.
Follow Ups:
Does FPE sell cut plates that aren't anodized? If not, the clear anodizing would have to be stripped off before the metal can be re-anodized in a color. Also, just to cover all the bases, the anodize layer does not conduct electricity. Any holes or areas used for grounding need to be drilled after anodizing or sanded/etched clean to create electrical contact.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
All good things to know. Will have to check. Thanks.
I would certainly be happy with those results. How are you fastening the caps to the plate?
I just use the brackets that come with.
Most difficult/tedious operation is the trial and error finding of the correct depth to set for countersinking the cap head screws. Most builds take 3 different sizes: #4,6, and 8 and each requires a different size countersink. I write out a flow chart for the drilling; got tired of forgetting some and having to set up all over again.
I use max 3/4" and 36mm step bits plus 1 1/2" and 1 5/8" hole saws with lots of cutting oil. Be sure and get bi-metal saws that use separate arbors. The fixed arbor saws soon break. Or, if your plate is aluminum, you can have fun with Forstner Bits:
I am trying to picture in my mind how that is done from the bottom of the plate.
Same as bottom mount tube socket with a machine screw run from the top down.
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