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In Reply to: RE: Anyone have a fave cnc shop for amp top plates? (nt) posted by Triode_Kingdom on October 07, 2016 at 08:11:32
Nice! Don't think my budget will allow one of those, but thanks for the tip on front panel express, I will give them a try. Looking for ways to spiff my next build a bit.
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I have had hundreds of panels made over the past 30 years by many machine shops.
I find FPE pricing very reasonable and quick turn around.
I think the edges are raw because they use pre-anodized sheets stock?
That could be, costs less and helps keep costs down, but I think I would rather pay a tad more. Thanks for the report, that helps.
One thing to remember when you order from Front Panel Express is that they cut the panels after they're anodized. That means all the edges of the cuts (including the outer periphery of the panel) will be raw, silver-colored aluminum. Allen Wright (RIP) used to complain about this, and it was a problem for me too. It's not acceptable to have outer edges in raw aluminum for a front panel, even if the panel is clear (silver) anodized. Raw aluminum not only oxidizes, it's extremely easy to scratch. To resolve this problem, I set up an anodizing tank in my garage a few years ago. Now most pieces I cut get this treatment immediately. Anodizing produces a much harder surface than paint, so once that's done, I don't have to worry about damaging the panels by handling them.
This all came about after a lot of thought about how to make my projects as professional as possible. Lettering is an issue, as is the ability (or in my case, inability) to shoot a coat of paint that dries hard and blemish-free. In the end, I decided CNC engraving and clear anodizing would be the most durable and straightforward methods. The engraving can be filled with any color after anodizing. FPE can do exactly the same thing for you, the only exception being the raw aluminum edges.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
I cut my own plates but send them to a local metal finishing shop here and in 2 other smallish towns I've lived in. First time around I tell them I just have this one or sometimes two pieces as a hobby and would they put it in with their regular black anodize production run. Never been turned down and never paid more than $20 a plate.
If you're using Front Panel have them just do the cutting then anodize locally. Sometimes you just have to cut after anodizing; a Permanent Marker blackens the rim just fine.
I get pretty good results with a cheapo Harbor Freight drill press.
Does FPE sell cut plates that aren't anodized? If not, the clear anodizing would have to be stripped off before the metal can be re-anodized in a color. Also, just to cover all the bases, the anodize layer does not conduct electricity. Any holes or areas used for grounding need to be drilled after anodizing or sanded/etched clean to create electrical contact.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
All good things to know. Will have to check. Thanks.
I would certainly be happy with those results. How are you fastening the caps to the plate?
I just use the brackets that come with.
Most difficult/tedious operation is the trial and error finding of the correct depth to set for countersinking the cap head screws. Most builds take 3 different sizes: #4,6, and 8 and each requires a different size countersink. I write out a flow chart for the drilling; got tired of forgetting some and having to set up all over again.
I use max 3/4" and 36mm step bits plus 1 1/2" and 1 5/8" hole saws with lots of cutting oil. Be sure and get bi-metal saws that use separate arbors. The fixed arbor saws soon break. Or, if your plate is aluminum, you can have fun with Forstner Bits:
I am trying to picture in my mind how that is done from the bottom of the plate.
Same as bottom mount tube socket with a machine screw run from the top down.
I am sure they have their reasons, but it seems like it would be a no brainier to anodize after cutting. There must be something that makes it difficult for them to do it that way. Thanks for the heads up.
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