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In Reply to: RE: Filament hum posted by Triode_Kingdom on September 13, 2016 at 10:40:52
What set up did you use for dc?
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I tried several, including a simple bridge/filter, a bridge/filter/regulator (linear), and a switcher. Switchers have a potential advantage insofar as their high frequency step-down transformers isolate the DC from common-mode noise on the AC line. It was my experience in every case, however, that DC heating of the 211 sounded dry and lifeless compared to AC, regardless of how the DC was derived. That was the impetus behind my search for a practical (i.e. inexpensive) method of ultrasonic heating.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
That's been my experience too, although the 845 doesn't seem to lose as much. Did you ever get a finished version of the ultrasonic heater? If so did you or could you you post the design?
Vinnie, I never did finalize a sine wave version, but I'll tackle that eventually. Meanwhile, the square wave doesn't seem to create any audible issues. If you search the forum and read up on the work that's been done in this area, I think you'll have enough to duplicate my efforts. One thing to remember about these supplies is that everything ahead of the 12V output (step down) transformer is attached in one way or another to the AC mains. If you're inclined to do a lot of experimentation, a small isolation transformer would be a great investment.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Thanks TK, I will see what I can find.
Triode_Kingdom did all the leg work on this using a simple 12v supply off Ebay.
You can no longer find the exact supply but one similar. I did this last year using TK methods and it worked perfect!
Triode_Kingdom Supply Link
--------------------This is the content and basic instructions--------------------
The first thing you have to do is pop the top off the box so you can get at the circuitry. Removing the PC board is a simple matter, once the box is open. Next, ferret out the connections at the four rectifier diodes and determine which leads represent the + and - output. You will then need to add a capacitor across those points, approximately 450uF / 200VDC.
Now, the next time you plug in the supply, it won't work. You'll discover that a small resistor (0.1 or maybe 1 ohm) located at the edge of the board has opened. That occurs because this is a fusible resistor, and the surge created by charging the new capacitor is too much. Replace the resistor with a 5 ohm, 5-10 watt part.
The next issue to deal with is the output frequency. 25 KHz is too low for audio work. The board contains a small toroidal transformer, and that needs to be modified. Remove the transformer from the board and you'll see it has two separate windings, about five or six turns each. Cut one end of each winding loose and unwrap all but one turn of each. Resolder the loose end of each winding. The next time you fire up the supply, it will output a 12V squarewave at approximately 60-65 KHz.
The last thing you'll need to do to use the supply is to add a dropping resistor at its output. The supply outputs 12V, so for a 211 drawing 3.25A, you'll need approximately 0.6 ohms. I use two 0.33 ohm resistors, one in each leg of the filament. I should add that I much prefer this approach to any sort of constant voltage regulation, or to modifying the turns ratio of the power supply's output transformer (not the same transformer mentioned previously). At the very least, the dropping resistors help to mediate the inrush current when the tube is cold. I mount the resistors directly to the filament posts of the 211 socket.
To use the supply, you'll need to mount the PS circuit board in a larger case. It won't fit in the original plastic container with the addition of the larger resistor and the filter cap. Make sure the PC board is well insulated from anything metal. The input circuit (oscillator transistors, diodes, filter cap, and toroid) are electrically connected to the AC line. In fact, only the two output leads (driven by the conventional output transformer) are isolated.
The Ebay link is the supply I used, just search for "12v halogen supply
This morning I measured the ac on just the 10 volts of dc for the 845 filament with the preamp disconnected from the 845 amp. It was only 2 mvac. This tells me I am ok with the dc filter I am using on the 845. However, when I hooked the preamp back up it jumped up 19 mvac. I think my problem has been the preamp all along, so I am going to concentrate on getting that down below 5 mvac and see what that does for me.
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