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Can't wait to start on this!
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Here's some more pics.
Edits: 08/25/16 08/25/16 08/25/16
Nt.
Nt.
I also replaced the mono switch with a genuine Alps Blue Velvet for gain control, and painted the transformers as recommended in the instructions to minimize rust and keep up the appearance.
I put in the sockets, switch, fuse holder, and the Cardas solid copper bullet Rhodium plated speaker binding post. More pics to come.
K40 caps. Now I can get started on mounting the transformers and sockets on the chassis.
I built this amp this year myself. Tried Jensen caps (one channel to compare with the other) and found the results indistinguishable.
In my separate SP-9 preamp though, better caps (used Mundorf Supreme) there was a huge improvement in the clearity and highs.
you compared them to the other channel. I too had this same result when I first put the Jensen's in my BAT, but after 100 hour they started to open up and come alive. One of the better caps I have ever used.
I tried Mundorf caps and they were not even close to the Jensen's. The Mundorf's are overrated.
Here is a pic of them installed. I still need to install the Russian K40's. Then I need to clean off the flux on the bottom side of the pcb.
I'm just waiting for the Jensen copper film caps to come in to finish it up. Just need to put the Jensen's in and then the Russian K40's.
Steve
Those larger resistors are metal oxides and those have to go.Get yourself some Koa Speer SPR2 which are carbon film..There is way too much metal film on that board to give you that smooth elegant sound.Not to be a kill joy,the Jensen coppers sound great when they work but have been known to have trouble.The Russian K40y or KBG caps with different leads are wonderful caps..The Jensens are fine but definitely lose those metal oxides and metal films.I still have to put the silver mica bypasses in and the film cap supply.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Michael, is that picture of that board you posted actually in one of your amps? If so, I have some suggestions as well. Those solder joints need to be redone. Quite a few have cold solder joints and looking at the top of the board hardly any soldered flowed to the top side of the board/component. Looks like the solder iron was not hot enough. Solder flux paste would have done wonders. The solder should be flow nicely and wet on both sides. Should be nice and shinny. Look at the board I did and you will see.Those joints will degrade the sound and may even cause noise if in the signal path, the others will become opens or intermittent in time.
Just trying to share some info. :)
Edits: 08/14/16
I have some Takman Carbon film resistors coming in for the input resistors and the ones going to the KT88's that will replace those metal oxides.
The Jensen's have worked fine for me and haven't had any issues with them. They always sound great. Way better than what came with the kit.
I will try the driver board with the resistors it came with before putting in the Takman's to see how it sounds to my ears. Then I will start making changes to my taste. I do agree with the metal oxides though.
Michael, Thank you for the tips! I always appreciate them.
So now I have all my tubes for my VTA 120. I will start to work on the chassis tomorrow since I have to wait for the Jensen cap to come in before I can finish the driver board.
How come you never unwrap things before you take a picture to show us? I mean the boxes are nice and all, but I for one would like to see the TUBES!
: )
Edits: 08/12/16
Hope you like it! : )
Awwwwh, ain't that pretty! Thanks Cougar!
It would be more pretty when it's fired up with all the other tubes at night when I finally finish. Just going back and forth between that preamp and this VTA 120.
To be honest Cougar, I think it might be a bit more exciting after you unpack it. : )
When I was on my Ipad and reviewed this post, the picture was right side up. Then I go to my laptop go onto AA and it's upside down! Just so weird. LOL!
You were obviously holding your iPad upside down.
:)
nt.
so that's why I stated that but I need to finish a buddy's preamp before I can start on my VTA 120. I was checking to make sure all things were there and seeing what I may change. :)
This will be a fun project/kit to build.
I told Rod about it but now I just hold the I-phone longways when I snap photos.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
nt.
Got it.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
other times it post correct. It has something to do with how the site loads up the pics. Too bad there was a way on the forum to go back and rotate it. Oh well.
I did the preview and it was in the upright position. Then Posted it and now it's upside down!
Latino/VTA amps are so different and of much better quality than the Dynaco's ever were that it's kind of comical to see that..The VTA70 is built on a Dynaco ST70 chassis but that's where the similarity ends.At least they aren't called Dynacos.
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong" H. L. Mencken
Since they are so different. I did finally get the Russian K40 caps you had been telling me about but I just didn't the sizes in any of my gear to order some from you. Hope they sound awesome like I have been hearing! :)
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