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166.137.209.148
Hello guys,
Any leads? Thanks!
Abe
Follow Ups:
nt
Abe,
Go on Ebay and look at this seller's stuff. It is quite nice and he has a particular chassis for a preamp. These chassis seems to be the same as what you can get from the place Andy Evans was talking about.
Seller name audio_kits
I looked up audio_kits and that's not the same as Penn Elcom. But the extrusions look the same as the ones from the Italian firm that Massimo on DIY Audio was using for his 26 preamp. The extrusions must be Chinese - audio_kits is in Hong Kong.
Andy,
I just meant you had something like this. I do think these look really nice and are very reasonable. I think the shipping is more than the product.
nt
Abe,
The seller is tubeamps. Take a look. I didn't get mine as yet but I am sure it will be great.
Look on ebay. I found some cool ones there. I just bought one myself for my preamp project. It is done with wood and metal plates.
These look good - very flexible and all kind of different sizes. Can be 1U, 2U or 3U height. They're all constructed around these nice looking extruded aluminium side pieces. Great for preamps. Could also make amps.
A cheap source of side panels (I use them as front panels) is the Modular Stage Box series from Penn. Available in 1U and 2U heights. I use these a lot - very flexible. Just add the other panels, which screw into the holes.
I found a place that carries this product close to where I am at.
Can you connect four of them to form a box and just provide the top and bottom plate?
thanks.
Abe
If you are talking about all these side/front extrusions, then no you can't connect four together. You need to screw on front/back plates into the holes provided in the extrusions. Then you add top and bottom plates. With the Penn-Elcom extrusions you can slide in a fairly thin top plate - I'd estimate about 1-2mm. Otherwise you screw the top plate on. I do that since I use 4mm top plates.
Nt
Abe,Good question. There is a lot of flimsy junk out there !!
I go to a local steel supply business, that has plasma cutting, and give them a neat drawing of what I want. I specify 14 gauge steel for best shielding. They cut and brake ( bend ) the unit, and I have a local craftsman weld the corners for me and die grind them smooth. I usually have a 3/4 inch lip on the bottom, and a full bottom plate.
So, I end up with a one piece unit that is strong, and has excellent shielding, and exactly the size I would like it to be. I always specify a Golden Ratio top proportion, 1 to 1.62 ratio. 14 gauge steel can be drilled and tapped with 6/32nd threads, and I use that for sub assembly fastening.
Heavy steel sounds good. My 2A3 stereo amp's chassis was in 12 gauge, and it alone weighed 33 pounds....NOT recommended for mere mortals. 14 gauge is easy to Greenlee punch, 12 gauge is not !!
Finally, after tapping and drilling all the holes I want, where I want them, I have the chassis top and bottom powder coated, and my "fave" is a wrinkle finish, usually midnight blue wrinkle which has some pearl in it.
The chassis may cost $100 to $130 and the powder coat is about $40. I love the results. Speak to a local steel supply outfit and see what they will charge you. Plasma, lazer, or water jet cutting may be what to look for in the yellow pages advertisements. Good luck.
Jeff Medwin
Edits: 01/23/13 01/23/13
H Jeff,
I will be doing something similar for my second build, but hopefully in non-magnetic stainless. I will have the fabricator cut the large holes for me, though I should have some SEK holesaws soon, which supposedly leave a very round hole (I have access to decent drill press).
I have a link somewhere of an online US firm the can do all sorts of small fabrication work, chassis and machining etc. You just use their software to do the design, send it, and they do the rest. No, it's not FPE. Being Aus, I will use someone local - just thought I'd mention it.
Cheers.
“As long as we have any intention to be right… we should be wary. So long as words have the slightest ego attachment, they are dishonest.” Charlotte Joko Beck
Stainless is the BEST, no doubt, but IF you try to drill holes and tap holes in it at home, it will likely be the one and ONLY stainless chassis you will ever do. :-)Jadis used a stainless chassis.
With steel, we raise the magnetics off the chassis, usually using three or four brass washers, so they do not feed directly into the chassis. ( You can spot this in the photo of the blue chassis above, the power transformer is "spaced" above the deck a small amount.) We usually attach all components with brass ...... nuts, multiple washers and bolts.
Be sure to post pictures of your chassis and build when you execute it. Everyone relates to that.
Jeff Medwin
Edits: 01/27/13
I would be happy to post Jeff. At the moment, I have my first amp to build (a compromise, but needed for refining my learning)... and I have work demands, so it could be a little while.
Cheers.
“As long as we have any intention to be right… we should be wary. So long as words have the slightest ego attachment, they are dishonest.” Charlotte Joko Beck
Thanks again!
Very economical is a large aluminum baking pan suited to use in commercial kitchens. Unlike the sometimes flimsy stuff sold for home use, these pans are strong. A "fatty", like me, can stand on them and they don't buckle. The flanges are good for the attachment of bottom plates. Dress 'em up with wood, if you like.
"Elbow grease" is required to get a decent finish. Auto body filler covers maker's marks. Light sanding and washing follows. Self etching primer sets things up for the final finish. "Hammerite" is easiest, but high gloss or matte can be attempted, should a proper dust free spraying environment be available.
Eli D.
The pans at the link below are US made and much thicker than the typical Chinese-made junk found nearly everywhere else.
--------------------------
Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
Thanks Eli! Excellent suggestion.
Abe
You might look at the Lansing modular enclosures Jim Hagerman uses for the Coronet and Clarinet. They can be sized to use circuit boards as structural components.
There are also all those look-alike chassis from various Asian sites like Valab on E-Bay.
IT'S CRACKERS TO SLIP A ROZZER THE DROPSY IN SNIDE
Thanks Bill!
Those amps are beautiful!
Abe
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