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Any driver upgrades for midrange? I have upgraded x-overs & added Crites tweeters.
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You are pretty limited in screw on drivers. A real upgrade would also require a horn change. Go to a 2" horn and driver. The Selenium D405 is an excellent driver. Bob Crites has them on his site.
You neglected to say what model number.
In general a change in the mid horn will improve the sound more than a change in the mid driver.
Original Forte (called Forte 1?).
I would think it much easier to do a serious xover upgrade see SET12's thread of his Forte upgrade at audiokarma dot org. You can damp the horn lens with dynamat you can stuff a little 30 ppi open cell foam into the throat and you can seriously brace and stiffen the cabinets which makes a huge difference. nYou can have a look here at a pair of Quartet cabinets I worked on last summer same bos more or less to your Forte here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372783&highlight=klf20
You could look at getting a set of Forte ll which is a better speaker. You can add some dead weight to you passive radiator to get some more lower bass over stock. Or you could look at a pair of KLF20 or a CF3 if you want better again over the Forte models. There are a lot of great mods you can do on any of these speakers but better to choose the speaker that you like best first. If you are open to buying a very good large amp in the 105 to 200 watt range the CF3 is very nice. Bigger is better when it comes to horns so the CF3 wins hands down in that department over those mentioned so far.
I just picked up some SP1 Peavey horns which are large and very good and very inexpensive and which use one inch drivers. The EV HP690 or the HR6040 are reasonable in size but still much larger than most all the klipsch you might consider using but you are then making the jump to large format 2 inch exit drivers. I am told large horns and drivers are a path not often reversed once gone down. That statement has been confirmed by my own experience so far. Good luck and have fun. Best regards Moray James.
moray james
Change the caps in the network to good polypropylene type, cut off all the push-on connectors and solder straight to the driver terminals, and be done with it.
If you are not very, very good at soldering, have someone that is very, very good do the soldering on the mids and tweets for you. It is easy to ruin a tweeter if you are not skilled.
If your tweeters are the newer polymeric diaphragm type, replace them with the titanium type diaphragm. If they are the original phenolic type I would leave them be.
Soldering all the driver connections will change the sound of the speaker more than you can imagine, better imaging, better detail, etc.
You should also add a block of dense neoprene sponge behind the mid driver so it wedges up against the back of the cabinet.
The crossovers are upgraded. I been soldering for many years. Thanks.
WE 555 ?:) The thread should bolt right on
Of course a WE555 will not fit, the thread size is completely different.
(not even going to mention cost)
The Klipsch K55V is a copy of the WE555 diaphragm and phase plug geometry with a phenolic diaphragm and a 1-3/8" 18TPI coupler.
The K55V solder-terminal version had an improved phase plug.
It was a joke hehehe,sorry ;) 66' k-horn all alnico with k-33-j
Edits: 03/24/12
I am willing to cut the cabinet for new midrange horn & driver, but not much room in-between the bass & tweeter.
IMO the Forte tweeter & bass are good drivers, the midrange is lacking. I know I could get other speakers, but the Forte size fits my listening room well in my Manhattan apartment. I have Cornwalls at my much larger PA location.
No need to cut the cabinet for better horns. Check out these.
I've heard the Voltis and they sound every bit as good as the genuine article, and look great to boot. If all you want is a mid upgrade they can surely do that too.
Freedom is the right to discipline yourself.
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