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WIth the Maggie staples and the brackets to better hold the panels in place.OK I have been wanting to do this but I just can't find anything that is premade and ready to go for that application.
Any how, I was reading Taz's DIY sub, where he had the following instructions for mounting the 18" woofer:
--8. With the speaker cabinet on its back. Silicon glue the drivers to the board, NO SCREWS. Trust me it works better and it will hold the drivers in fine. Let glue set for 24 hours. Its best to have the wires connected before you do this. Its also a good idea to just run wire straight from drive to amp, no jacks or plugs in-between.--
SO I am thinking that if a bit of glue could hold 18" drivers in place that have to weigh more than the MMGs whole pannel, and move more...why not use it for your mod and use glue in place of staples.
Ok I can see that if one wants to remove the panel, it isn't going to happen. Besides that, could this work??
Follow Ups:
Can anyone give me the original reference for the Tazmon DIY Sub? I can't seem to find it. Does sound interesting, though.
Thanks
Sorry, I forget which model Maggie you have and whether your perforated metal magnet sheet is at the front or the back ... so I can't be absolutely specific (but email me directly, if you've got any more Qs :-)) ).On my IIIAs, I had some steel angles made up which were about 3/4" along the "big side of the 'L'" and 1/4" wide along the small side. The big side lies flat against the MDF and the small side pokes down to press against the metal sheet (which in my IIIAs is at the back). The bass/mid drivers are set into a rebate cut into the MDF frame and the back of the wooden frame of the bass/mid driver sits about 1/4" down from the surface of the MDF frame.
Because my metal sheet is at the back, I had those steel reinforcing bars every 15" or so, so I had to cut the steel angles into short lengths, to fit between the reinforcing bars ... and I put 2 bolts in for each section.
If you had your metal sheet at the front, you could use just one long piece of steel angle at the back and put bolts, say, every 10-12".
Now, if you don't have a tame metalwork shop to make up the steel angles or you can't find 3/4" x 1/4" steel angles already made up, you could use a slight variant which IMO would be almost as good.
Get some steel flat - say 3/4" x 1/8" (or 1" x 1/8") - and lay it on the sides of the bass (or bass/mid) driver frame ... ie. inside the rebate. Then simply drill holes through this and through the outer MDF frame and bolt it in place (mushroom bolt heads at the front and nuts at the back, with lock-washers underneath).
Whether silicon would do just as good a job ... I really have no idea but gut-feel says to me it won't!! :-)) And besides, as you said ... if you want to subsequently remove the driver assembly then you're in trouble!!
Regards,
Andy - any reason why you used metal instead of wood?
Yes, because metal is much stiffer - ie. I think it does that job (holding the driver to the frame) better.Regards,
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