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Just how easy is it to break a tweeter? by manipulating it, I mean?
Today I tood all the drivers out of my speakers, to give the box a layer of fresh paint.
Speakers are some kind of upgraded Klipsch LaScala with Peavey FH-1 bass bin loaded with Klipsch K33E, Klipsch K55V midranges on EV SM120A horns, ALK Universal crossovers, and Beyma CP25 tweeters.
I listened music today, just before taking everything apart, and it all worked fine and sounded great.
Now I put everything back together and the tweeter in the right speaker isn't working. no sound at all.
I doubled checked, triple checked all connections and cabling; everything is normal; no sound from the tweeter.
Tweeter goes trough an L-pad; could the L-pad be broken? How???...
all connections and solder on the crossovers look perfect, everything is solid
did I somehow brake something? the thread between the tweeter connector and the coil? something like that? it's so weird... I mean, those are robust drivers made for PA use... :( I really don't get it
Follow Ups:
This sort of thing can happen if a mechanical connection between two things is "iffy". I would check the driver's connections where they mate with the signal wires, i.e., at the driver terminals. Connect a signal to the driver, and wiggle the wires and terminals a little to see if the signal is intermittent.
:)
I took the driver apart to check the diaphragm; I can't see anything broken. Terminals are part of the diaphragm, so to speak...
Anyways I'll probably never know what killed it. I put one of my old EV t35 in there until I buy a new tweeter
Not sure, tho, if i'm gonna buy two or just one :/
i had a cat pull on an amp's inputs - musta had an ultrasonic oscillation - FH1's woofer coils survived but burnt out two K55V and two APT50 plus the amp smokedfor hard rock music an Altec 511 makes a decent midhorn in these Klipsch-style systems.
Karlson Evangelist
Edits: 08/03/16 08/03/16
There was an option/button for "Delete".But, when I clicked it, I got this message:
"Error! You can't do that!
Nice try, but that action is not allowed."
Question: Then, why is the button displayed?
:)
Edits: 08/05/16
do you have an extra 1uF to 2uF cap laying around to test the tweeter at low levels by itself?
Karlson Evangelist
$65 will get you a new diaphragm.
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
You need to disconnect tweeter and put the same wires on a spare
mid or tweeter you might have (or the working Beyma you have) and
verify a signal. If it sounds normal, then the tweeter has an issue.
If no sound, the problem is probably on the crossover or wiring,
possibly a solder joint. L-pad is probably fine.
I did connect another driver, there was sound coming trough, it's the tweeter that's broken.
I have NO IDEA how such a thing can happen.
It worked fine, i disconnected it, repainted the box, reconnected it, it's broken. Crazy. It didn't fall on the floor, I didn't bump into the wall with it, all i did was disconnect the wire, unbolt it from the wood, and put it on a table while i was working on the box. :( no I'm wondering wether I should just get one replacement tweeter; I feel like it'd be better to have two. Won't I get a different sound if I have a brand new tweeter on one side and a 10years old tweeter on the other?
Replace both tweeters.
The very fine gauge coil wire (used in tweeters) is soldered
to the terminal tab...which can break quite easily if they
didn't glue it down properly. That can sometimes be re-soldered.
I guess I'd get a new pair if you plan on keeping them.
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