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For grins (and because the cabinets looked so cool) I got a pair of Knight 615hc 15" triax on CL. Beautiful 30 pound beasts with chrome baskets! Well, when I got them home I found that both tweeters are bad.
Searching the forums and interwebs turns up no 16 Ohm diaphragms. 8ohm are on the bay, but those won't work according to other posts. Seems the diaphragms in these are the same as T35, but that's not helping me at the moment since the replacements I've seen are all 8 Ohm.
Any suggestions for sources of these 16 Ohm drivers?
Thanks for your help.
Doug
Follow Ups:
Yeah defintely try Mr. Crites. Maybe someone else has spoken with GPA and can comment, but my hazy memory holds that Great Plains had some amount of support for 16ohm stuff once.
Bill at GPA was the one who pointed me toward Bob. Bob told me that he purchased the diaphragms from Bill, but GPA no longer have any.
While I had the tweeters out, I went ahead a recapped the crossover that is attached to the magnet. I don't remember the values but I found them on the EV archives. It did take some digging because there is a schematic for the 16 ohm and 8 ohm versions, so you have to make sure you have the correct one.
FWIW, the speakers are not the last name in high fidelity but are really fun with jazz. I've since moved on to Altec 604-8H's and they are far, far better in every aspect but usually come with a much higher price tag. Also, I had the 15TRX(not the B version) in 12 cft vented enclosures and they would probably have been better in something even bigger. I've heard great things about them in the Regency cabinet and I seriously considered going that route but knew that I would never be happy with the tweeter so low.
Bob Crites (search Crites speakers) has a few of the OEM diaphragms and the necessary tooling and knowledge to replace them. I had him replace one in my 15TRX a couple of years ago. I removed the tweeter from the speaker and sent it to him. If you carefully pry off the metal label on the magnet cover, you can remove the screw and pull off the magnet cover. You will see a stud with a nut protruding from the center of the magnet. Disconnect the wires that run along the stud and remove the nut. Flip the speaker over and very carefully pull the felt from the speaker cone. You may have to use an exacto knife( you can use super glue to reattach it). Now you can lightly tap the stud and the tweeter will come out.
Bob will be my next call.
I truly appreciate your help.
Best,
Doug
Back in the day when I was doing commercial system design & installation, I spec'd a gymnasium system with 24(?) ceiling-mounted E-V 12TRXBs. (It was a design-only project - I wasn't bidding on it.) That general series of speakers were great in certain applications, such as gymnasiums, churches, some auditoriums, etc. I wouldn't call them truly "high fidelity", but they were certainly good speakers which could be EQ'd to sound pretty good in such environments.
Which brings me to my point: If "just for grins" includes spending much more time and money just for fun, go find exact replacement drivers or tweeter diaphragms. But if, in your view, this is turning into a pain in the butt and/or might cost more than you'd like and ultimately can't provide the level of sound quality you'd like, I'd say cut your losses. One way to cut your losses and still keep the speakers is to forget fixing the tweeters and just go buy a couple of new tweeters to mount above the existing driver. Heck, many people INTENTIONALLY buy brand new non-coincident 15" two or three way speakers brand new every day.
In EITHER case, I'd say carefully review your agreement and representations with the seller - you may or may not have a case for getting all or some of your money back.
Next time, listen and think before buying.
Lesson learned, I hope.
:)
Thanks. Caveat Emptor and all. I get it.
As for cutting losses, you are on to something and I may just offer them to the world with blown tweets if I can pair them with something that floats my boat.
Anyway, your comments are on point.
Do you know if the tweeter is padded down in the original design?
If so and if by at least 6db then you could use a 8 ohms diaphragm with an 8 ohms series resistor and rework the rest of the pad.
Tre'
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
The tweeter runs flat out and the aftermarket ones are horrible.
Edits: 09/08/14
Thanks, Tre.
Djk--sounds like you've tried replacements. Which are best (of the horrible!) and do you know of a source for originals?
Truly appreciated.
Doug
The originals have not been available for years now..
The $60 one from Simply Speakers is the best of the current ones, don't waste your time with any of the $20 you find.
how to deal with impedance mismatch? Tre suggests adding an 8 Ohm series resistor. Is it as simple as that? Mods to the L pad needed?
Final question: how the heck do I get at the diaphragm? I haven't popped off the cover for the crossover/magnet and maybe it'll be obvious, but since you've done this before I defer to your experience.
On a final good note, since both are blown at least the channels should match!
There are several 4-8-16 ohm autoformers around. A small, low-power one is fine - you don't need bass power handling!
Sorry, I can't help you.
Adding an 8Ω resistor will lower the level by 6dB, so that is not a viable solution.
.
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
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