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Coaxial or Full Range
Feel free to throw in something smaller, if you would like.
Appreciate the advice. Thanks.
Follow Ups:
Phy-hp
The Electrovoice "Wolverine" series LS-12/LS-15 and the EV SP-12B/SP-15B (all twincones with some HF extension) are well suited to OBs. By extension, I would expect their coax cousins (LT-12, LT-15, 12TRXB and 15TRXB) to all be good candidates as well.
Having said that...
Joseph Esmilla espoused putting Altec Duplexes on his OBs; I've never tried it, but I have listened to a pair of 604Cs sitting on the floor and it sounded good enough to me to put me on the quest for a pair of Duplexes myself. I fulfilled that quest a couple of years ago with a pair of 604Es and Mastering Labs XO... but I have to admit I have them in boxes, not on OBs :-)
all the best,
mrh
Here's the PHY-HP pics.
enjoy.
Great looking loudspeaker! Is that zebrawood?
+1 on EV SP15 for open baffle with a tweeter.
Also with a 12 in. size PHY-HP is great and more easy to drive with SET amps.
EV drivers are good OB candidates, because of their typically highish Qt numbers. Ideally, a Qt 0f .7 should make the best OB driver.
Qts of 1.0 or greater (again, methinks) gives that 'warmth' that feels like bass - it's surprisingly satisfying even to 'audiophile' ears if the overall 'tone' of the driver(s) is/are good - case in point: some of the old (US) console hifi drivers. These were never meant to be audiophile transducers, but fed with excellent sources through good amplifiers, they can be amazingly fun and satisfying.
all the best,
mrh
Right-oh .........
For OB sans eq a Qt ~ 2 is optimum unless baffle size
is no problem.
Well, it kinda all depends on the rest of the drivers in your OB setup and your intentions for their natural efficiency matching.
My objective has always been to reduce or eliminate the need for volume matching attenuation devices in my Open Baffles. So, I look for drivers (Woofers, Wide Band and Tweeters) with a natural volume matching within 2 deibels of each other.
For me, the Altec 416 15" woofers and the Tone Tuby 12" Wide Band Woofers fit this bill nicely when matched with my preferred Lowther wide banders and RAAL Dipole Tweeters. And these woofers are absolutely soniclly fabulous and speed demons.
On a side note. If you are interested in a twelve inch JBL, then I very strongly suggest the 122a (foam surround only and Alnico version). It is a far better sounding driver, in my vast experience with JBL drivers, than the 123's. Either way you will likely need to attenuate the Open Baffle drivers to match the lower efficiencies of the JBL woofers. Also, put the 122a in it's own reflex box attached to but gasketed from the baffles.
Best of luck and have lots of fun.
Lance A.
Be sure to read Chopper's posts. He lays out his experimentation and describes the results of using Lowther drivers.
I would add one change to what he describes, which is to have the Lowther drivers (or any other driver for that matter) enABLEd. This increases the coherency of the sound (including the midbass which has more snap) and improves the texture of the high frequencies.
(or any other driver for that matter) enABLEd. Yep great to mod all drivers without any understanding of why or any experimentation just coat phase plug and go. I have a few customers who enabled rare drivers they are now junk and loudspeakers are just cabinets. I tried to help out the customers who fell for the enable process and I ran out of replacement drivers. I now warn all who purchase from me about this damaging process. Though madisound loves all the replacements its creating the need for.
In my case, I compared enABLEd Lowthers with nonenABLEd Lowthers, and the enABLEd Lowthers were clearly better in several ways, with no downsides. Also, the change was significant. As Jon ver Halen of Lowther America said, the benefits were audible in a separate room, which helps to indicate the level of improvement.
I have read very few negative comments on the threads which discuss this technique. I find it interesting that you seem to know many who did not like it. What did they not like about it? Have you heard positive comments as well?
I agree that it is hard to pinpoint what actually is going on with the drivers, and from what I understand, there really are only theories of why the treatment changes the drivers. But I certainly did hear the improvement. When I put the nonenABLEd drivers back in, I almost did not want to listen to my system anymore because the loss of sound quality was so great.
I think this "Enabling" improvement is probably contingent on what the rest of you system is doing, (source, amp, tubes, wire, magic clocks, etc.). If your system is, let's say, inherently bright, and Enable dulls it up a bit, well, THERE'S an improvement! If it dulls it up to the point where singers sound like both hands are over their mouths, well then you're SOL.
My experience is that enABLe does the opposite, it takes a dull driver and makes is more transparent and more dynamic, which can expose flaws in the upstream components.
My point was that the term "improvement" is relevant to what's being improved, not what the product actually can or cannot do. "IFFY" things that can't be undone, (slicing off wizzer cones on a pair of $2400 Lowther drivers), should probably best be auditioned first, unless, of course, money's no object or you're dead sure your going to want to keep this improvement. I've tried several "I swear" improvements in the past only to find they didn't work as intended, (in my system), or the improvers themselves abandoned the improvement and moved on to other areas. That's all. No harm meant.
but, that's "fullrange plus supertweeter" territory, and it'll destroy most any other vintage wideband driver in terms of bass.
Bass is supposed to sound big. 6.5" is not a woofer size.
Its not too low in efficiency, about 97-98 as I recall. Its problem is the metal dome dust cover resonating, but I too like its tone. I put a paper dustcover on mine, but then it lost top end , of course !!
Jeff Medwin
You're confusing it with the D123.
123A No=0.68%=90.3dB
D123 No=2.5%=96dB
No=% is for the octave from the EBP to the Mass Corner(2xEBP).
Thanks DJK,
I am easily prone to make mistakes on speakers, appreciate the post !!
Jeff
But both quite good in their own way.
Bass is supposed to sound big. 6.5" is not a woofer size.
I think D`123 goes higher than my old graph indicated - with that horn on top and a piezo driver with trap, it was very articulate
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