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There's Home depot 10 gauge solid core for around $2/ft,
and Cardas @$16/ft.
What would you choose?
TIA!!
Follow Ups:
Running speaker cable in and through walls requires a CL3-rated wire.
I see Crutchfield has 14-gauge Audioquest in-wall cable for about $1 a foot (see link below).
...check with local codes. The wires will likely have to be UL/CL rated.
Dean,
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
I'm getting Permits and it will be Inspected.
You'll fail inspection here in CT if wires in-walls aren't UL/CL approved.
Dean.
reelsmith's axiom: Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
un-necessary. Not to mention it is nearly impossible to work with
"Man is the only animal that blushes - or needs to" Mark Twain
Dave,
You are right. I had a dedicated 20A line put in years ago. As luck would have it, the box is @ 10' from the outlet and the electrician ran conduit from the box to the drop. A couple of years later I thought I'd replace that crummy Romex with some cryo'd 10Ga. I did it my self. I would NEVER do it again. 10Ga is a bitch to work with. If I were an electrician I would charge XTRA for the aggravation of having to contend with 10Ga.
nt
Observe, before you think. Think before you open your yap. Act on the basis of experience.
Don't forget to use Pass & Seymour outlets.
Kidding, of course. For the house, what really matters is cross sectional area, and of course, proper grounding.
...the right direction!
Berkeley Ca.
Going with Romex, Blessed with Holy Water, WereWolf Drool, and UnDead Gore.
As long as music lover is still doing just that, the install must have been done right.
Don't know if you are aware of it or not, but you have a few inmates close bye. Robert Lang has a fine surround rig. And I'd bet that Mikey Kueller's 2 channel flies.
Play on tenorman. Tonight for Kathie and I it's an alto guy here that has a tone that is close enough to Paul Desmond's that at times it goes right through me. Haunting.
over on Tweaks.
Lots of good advice
Is the Home Depot wire a major brand name or is it generic Home Depot? The reason I ask is that I once got suckered buying generic Home Depot 12ga speaker cable that appeared to be identical to a big name brand cable (marketed by a handicapped guy named Noel) that they had on a spool next to their cable. The Home Depot brand was less than half price so I bit. Two years later this cable had turned green:-(
Caveat Emptor!!!!
Cheers,
AL
So does the Monster, BTW........
I'm with Rod on the cable used.
12 gauge meets code for a 20A line. I added two separate circuits in my listening room, but should have added at least one more for complete component isolation.
It's good to know it's not super-critical Expensive.
Thanks to all.
( MIT didn't seem to have Home Wire.)
for the first three feet though. :)
Me too- In fact, in order to use the one I want for my amp, I Have to get a good dedicted circuit!
I would check the MIT catalog & see what they offer :)
12 gauge for 27 cents a foot.
-Rod
Right, more sensible.
What about thicker guage for power amp only?
I wouldn't waste my time unless you have an amp that needs a 30 amp breaker. It's more trouble than it's worth to work with 10 gauge, stiffer to fat to fit most receptacles.
-Rod
I agree, 12g is adequate. Everybody's issues are different even from house to house.
When I redid my house I increased the service amperage which came with all new and bigger cable from the utilities source up to my main. I had my electrician continued the run into a new sub panel l dedicated for audio and home theater then onto the breaker panel.
Two dedicated breaker lines each for both audio and HT. Everything from the sub panel was metal clad BX 12g with no junction box interruptions. Compared to most things audio this work was economical at just under $1K and the improvement was stunning.
Check out pages 31 through 35 in the link below.Note the test results of the aluminum armor MC cable.
Edits: 04/10/14 04/10/14
I'm not at all qualified to comment on the results attained in the article nor do I know the method the contractor used to ground my home VAC system.
Built in the early 70's my home used aluminum cable between the main and the panel. Romex fed both the audio and HT systems before the BX upgrade I mentioned.
Before the upgrade my PS Audio HCA-2 switching amplifier could be heard through two clock radios. It produced a harsh edgy presentation that fluctuated randomly. My Pioneer Kuro plasma also displayed random interference.
After the upgrade the audio and HT very noticeably better. Even my tube electronics worked dead quiet.
As I said most VAC system and their supplies can differ greatly. In my case the Romex and/or the way it was executed was absolute shit. The contractor didn't find anything out of the ordinary with the original Romex run. So if I'm losing something by using BX rather than Romex it's just fine with me.
I totally agree. Dedicated power is by far the highest reward tweak there is. When we moved to our current home, the main panel was fairly new and only fed the family room addition and an old sub-panel which was the old main and fed the rest of the house. I added two more dedicated 20amp circuits with 4 plugs each and had the bonus of another dedicated line that already existed. And there's not much of anything else on the main.
The main is on the back wall, so the runs aren't more than 10 feet. The worst part was patching and painting the holes in the walls to gain access.
-Rod
OK thanks, I see what you mean.
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