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Hello all,
So I have recently been reviewing the age old argument of single wiring your speakers vs. biwring and / or removing the bridge plate between the binding posts and connecting them with jumper cables matching your speaker cable.
Something occurred to me last night about another way to wire up your speakers….
WHAT ABOUT LIKE THIS---?????
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B01U3HhYR3nZSmI3MUVBZ3d0Mlk/view?usp=sharing
Would you consider this to be 'biwring' or single?
Good idea or bad idea?
Pluses and minuses to wiring this way?
I haven't tested it out yet, and wanted to gather some opinions before actually amping them up this way.
Thanks
Steve
Follow Ups:
The image above shows speaker cable wiring schemes for single and bi-wire speaker cable connections. The photo you pointed at, with basic hookup wire is simply a single speaker wiring scheme that doesn't involve straps, links, bridges or bi-wire jumpers. Not recommended for a high-performance speaker cable termination method.
Personally I have never tried the method shown in the photo linked by the OP, but I think that in principal it could be a good solution for a single wire connection scheme. This would seem to serve solid core wire better than stranded wire as the binding post compression of stranded wire may not provide the best connection. Extra connectors and solder (if used) would not seem to bring any benefits to signal transmission to solid core wire.The photo shows the multi-strand wire to be a bit ragged, which is not optimal. I would use some heat shrink on the wire between the two terminals to help prevent oxidation to the exposed copper wire.
Edits: 05/16/15
A fundamental issue is that the ragged small-gauge stranded hookup wire serving as a jumper cable is a very poor choice for the purpose. A larger-gauge jumper made with a higher-quality conductor would serve the purpose better, even though it would not be a single contiguous conductor like the configuration shown in the photo. Whether or not the exposed wire is covered with heat shrink won't improve the sonic performance of the wiring method.
The bottom line is, if one is using basic 18 AWG hookup wire as speaker wiring, it doesn't really matter what method is implemented for the task. A more sophisticated high-performance speaker cable won't be as easy to implement that way, and the sonic result would most likely be unacceptable from a high-performance perspective vs. a high-quality jumper cable.
nt
You need to learn about what bi-wiring really is.
See the following URL's in the order presented:
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/biwiring.htm
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/biwiring2.htm
These pages discuss the simple DC ramifications of bi-wiring, and show how the current flow is actually divided up in the two bi-wire cables.
For more advanced bi-wiring information see the following:
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/page7.htm
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/page8.htm
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/page9.htm
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/page11.htm
http://www.geocities.ws/jonrisch/page12.htm
Pages 7 through 12 can get really difficult, as they introduce a new and powerful test signal, which in itself can be difficult to understand fully.
Jon Risch
That's not bi-wiring. You can read about bi-wiring on the Vandersteen website. It really does make a positive difference.
I have come to understand that this is NOT bi-wiring in the traditional sense where ONE set of +/- leads get run to the speaker and then SPLITS into TWO leads. However, isn't the amount of current delivered the same as if it were??
Thanks
The are cables that are called bi-wire cables where they have 2 connections for the amp side (+,-) and 4 connections for the speaker side. These cables are not nearly as good as having 4 seperate cables for each side (8 total). I know that's a lot of cable, but in my system, that works the best.
......
First I single wired w/factory jumpers. Then changed the jumpers to the same as the speaker cable (4TC) Totally sucked. Went back to 30 year old jumpers, Better, then bi-wire, the best sound of them all and did it first with Speltz and now DIY 14ga copper foil.
After bi-wiring I reconnected my older CJ amp in a passive bi-amp with the same gain, sensitivity and input Z as my newer CJ amp and that gave me another forward leap.
E
T
Thanks for your input,
So you are saying that overall BI-WIRING made the largest difference followed by passive bi-amp, followed by changing the brand of cabling correct?
What's interesting to me is that I am not 100% sure why the picture is different than BI-WIRING...??
In theory bi-wiring takes one lead and splits into 2 leads. The current delivered is the same amount right?
bi-wiring for me with my gear made the most difference yes. I did prefer the HF with the DIY copper foil speaker wire over the Speltz but the LF was all but the same. Bi-amping also took it up another level.
I have felt bi-wiring helped for a few reasons one being there is only one impedance load (in my two way system) per wire compared to two (or more) within one wire w/o bi-wiring. And no the current is not delivered in the same amount. The current delivered (required) per bi-wire lead is based on what load it is driving. My LF section takes 2X or more the power of my HF section. This is why I use 250/ch on the LF and 120/ch for HF.
Good luck!
E
T
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