|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
84.162.83.176
In Reply to: I like to DIY, you might like it too! posted by bartc on April 2, 2005 at 07:03:51:
How did the braided design turn out? Are you satisfied with the results?
Follow Ups:
Your original design (at least my original attempt at one of your designs) the dual twist works best in my system so far. My dual twist is all the "wrong" stuff, while my 4 braid was upgraded on all counts in theory; yet it didn't sound anywhere near as good.Original dual twist:
1) P&S 5266X plug, P&S 5252I duplexes
2) THHN 12 AWG in dual twist design, shotgun, teflon wrapped and inside a poly tube
3) cheap steel wall box and plate
This one works like a charm. Detailed, punchy, extended and full bodied.New one 4 braid:
1) Hubbell 5266 plug, Hubbell 5252W duplexes
2) 10 AWG mil-spec high temp 600V copper wire, silver plated, teflon jacketed in 4 braid config
3) plastic box and plate and steel screws replaced with brass
This one turned out to be too dry, actually not as detailed, not balanced either, and suffered from more of that glassy HF sound too, even after more than 3.5 weeks of burn-in!I don't know what makes the difference, but that 4 braid simply didn't pan out for me. Maybe it's a system synergy issue, maybe it's a different RFI issue, maybe it's just not the right config. Simply don't know why as yet and will continue testing, but original design is FAR superior in sound.
Further RFI tweaking made the original even better. It's smoother and more musical by far, yet actually more detailed all across the spectrum. So I'm working my way from that baseline again.
I appreciate all your help and advice. I know that you're on target for me with at least one design. Thanks. As they say, YMMV....
Alan,I built your 4 braid a month ago (thanks so much for the design), and it is fantastic! It exceeded my expectations. I intend to build a second one for my system soon.
The sonic effect will continue with each added application (AC, Interconnect, Digital, and Speaker). In the case of speaker cables and interconnects just double up the conductor (unbalanced 2 hot and 2 ground / balanced 1 +/- and 2 ground)....use the unbalanced method for speaker cable. When I had the cable in production I used 21ga 4N silver / teflon wiring for the interconnects and 16ga for speaker. If you decide to use 6N copper step the gauge up to 18ga for interconnect and 14ga for speaker.
Well Alan,I used the 4 braid design with 12 guage silver plated teflon military wire that I got off ebay. I used Marinco connectors. Is this within the parameters you recommend.
I would have used a warmer copper based ac plug like a Wattgate or Furutech to bring out a little added midrange warmth, but everyone's system has different requirements.Percy sells a 9.5ga Cardas wire that is very good combined with a P&S 8315C and Wattgate 320 iec. A Hubbell HBL8315C would be better.
You might be interested in my new project (work in progress). Currently I'm working on a active shielded interconnect and speaker cable. My demo cables use over the counter Canare wiring (star quad and 4S11 speaker cable). It's based off an earlier project I did years ago grounding the return in a coaxial cable. That project through the help of a couple audio dealers (stupidity on my part) paved the way for the Synergistic and Tara isolated grounded offerings.Anyway the speaker cable turned out very good so far. You have to play with the shield layering to get the desired effect, but all in all it does a fantastic job of removing a couple layers of noise for little cost. I use 3 isolated layers of copper braid soldered together at both ends. For the demo version I wired the drain wires into a ac plug and plugged it into my power conditioner (the power conditioner filters the ground).
Actually, I live very close to Tom from Aural Thrills Audio, and last summer he sold me his demo active shielded IC, but I am VERY interested in your progress; I'd love to build a pair also. I built all of my own speakers and a preamp years ago, so I'm always fascinated by new ways to improve the sound in my system.I'm so glad you're still on Cable Asylum; there seemed to be a gap in your posting. I used the Marinco IEC and plug partly because of price, and partly because of ignorance of what might be better, BUT, I could always change them or buid a second cable.
Without spilling the beans....the design is very close to the original which I always felt was lost in the who takes credit for what concept. Most active designs today use a simple Y-cap (anywhere from .01uf to .1uf) at the speaker end to load the shield in concert with a wall wart psu. The idea is to use the psu to run a little voltage across the capacitor to charge the floating shield. It's not a real difficult concept to understand. I decided not to copy that approach....instead I decided to address both the amp and cable dampening properties at the same time. In my opinion it is better to balance (control) both sides of the amps circuit if your really looking to cancel out RFI and EMI effecting the entire circuit. Just think about the lengths people go to for cleaner ac on the primary side of the circuit. The entire cable game is based on finding the proper capacitance balance to match the primary side. The concept I'm working on allows me to actively control the primary and secondary balance without changing or adding to the original circuit.So far the project has surpassed my wildest dreams. At the moment I'm still fine tuning the idea and would like to keep it under wraps. Let me just say the idea has a lot of promise.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: