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First question: the extended Foreplay schematic shows a 2.2 uF cathode coupling capacitor; a very nice Auricap 3 uF capacitor is supplied. However, I am currently using an even NICER Audio Note 2.2 uF cap (love those PIO caps). Is it OK to continue to use the 2.2 uF cap?Second question: thanks to Posternutbag for posting manual corrections. Has anyone else found any other manual corrections? (I'm getting ready to start the rebuild.)
Thanks,
Follow Ups:
First, my apologies for the error in the upgrade schematic, which should show the value as 3.0uF. I'll send the corrected schematic to Doc for future manuals.Second, the value is not critical. The capacitor should be large enough to serve two purposes, adequately extended bass and maintaining a low line impedance to minimize certain kinds of noise pickup. Both are adequately served with anything more than 1.0uF, while more than 10uF is clearly overkill (IMHO). There are various precise calculations that could be made, but they all depend on vague and/or arbitrary assumptions on the criterion to be used so I don't see much point in fussing with them. It's more important to get a good-sounding cap.
Experimentally, you might try paralleling the Auricap with your existing PIO cap - tack it in, or even just use clip leads, to see if you like it. (Remember, if it seems promising, to leave it in for at least 50 hours of music before making any final judgements.) Since both caps are highly thought of, it's going to be mostly a matter of your taste and system synergy.
Steve,I just finished foreplay III.
I couldn't find the other post of manual corrections you referred to so mine may be repetetive, but here they are:Bottlehead Foreplay III Manual 1-24-06
The following is a list of typographical errors.
1.Brief Circuit Theory: The preamplifier circuit consists of 2 channelS, each using… (missing the S on channels)
2.Page 11: Step 2: It should look like the picture on page 10. (not page 7.)
3.Page 22: In the Table: LI2 – Red wire connects to 30U(no solder)… (not 20U **critical**)
4.Page 25: Step 3, ( ) Cut and strip back 1/4” on each end of a 1-3/4” piece… (missing 'of')
5.Page 25: Step 5, ….Cut both the red and black wires back 1”. … (missing the 'L' in black and the word 'back')
6.Page 27: Step 2, … attach and solder the black wire to terminal 5L, attach….(not 15L **critical**)
7.Page 31: Step 3, … attach but do not solder the other end to terminal 22U. (not 21U)
8.Page 33: Step 1, …attach and solder the other lead to terminal 17U. (It is OK to solder 17U at this step.)
9.Page 33: Step 2, …attach and solder the other lead to terminal 37U. (It is OK to solder 37U at this step.)
10.Page 33: Last step, …attach and solder other lead to 40U. (not 39U **critical**)And finally... I built mine folling the manual on my laptop. Because I didn't print out the manual I wasn't able to check off each step I finished. As a result I missed a very small but crucial step. Don't forget the jumper wire from H1 to H4. It's the first step on page 28.
It's nestled between two descriptive paragraphs and I missed it.
I suggest printing the manual if you can.Hope this helps.
Steve
I just finished up my Extended FPIII tonight with Posternutbags corrections and everything is good to go. As for your questions:If memory serves right the original FP used 2.2uf coupling caps, but changed over to the 3.0uf caps for better bass. Your Audio Note caps should do just fine.
The only problem that i ran into, which could have just been the way i built my FPIII, was a wire that was too short. On page 13, step 3, you cut the red wire at octal socket terminal R5. Later on you will re-connect that wire to pad "O" on the A side of the shunt reg board, page 37 step 2. Once you mount the shunt reg board i would check and see if that wire will reach in case you need to solder a longer wire to terminal 21U.
Cheers,
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